2008 JK RIPP Supercharger Stage2 Problems

I am looking to see if anyone has the same problem I do. I have installed an SDS from RIPP a few years back, with intercooler, injectors, etc. It will randomly trip "System too lean bank1 and 2". It could take 3 hours from clearing the code, or it can take 3 days. RIPP's Techs have said to run it and the code is false, and it will eventually go away. Well it hasn't. Now I moved to Wisconsin, where there are stringent emissions, and cannot pass. I don't fail because I'm harming the environment (as they have now done away with traditional testing and now use the OBD2 port to pass you), but I fail simply because my check engine light needs to stay off for 100 miles once I clear it. It seems that it will not. I do not have any leaks that I know of in the vacuum system, as I have replaced most gaskets. It will always throw bank 1 and bank 2 codes together, never separate. By this, I am assuming that whatever is causing it would be pre-combustion, because it effects air/fuel coming into both banks. Has anyone here had the same problems? Suggestions? The only fix I can think of is to take the SDS off, which means belt, injectors, MAF, retune, PCV, etc. Screw that, unless there is no other solution. I currently have gone 50 miles without the code faulting. 50 more miles and to the emissions shop in order to pass, but I'm not sure it will stay gone. There has to be a fix. I have 44 days to make it right or I can't drive it. Help Appreciated. :thinking:

The issue with the check engine light having to stay off you are referring to is a code known as the OBD II system readiness code, sometimes shown as "ODB II not ready" when running a code scan. It's not really a case of miles. There are certain parameters and objectives that must be completed, ie a certain number of heat cycles, cruise at constant speed, etc. The manufacturer's FSM is the only place I know of right off the top of my head that lists what all is required to complete a drive cycle and get the OBD II readiness code to go away. Every time you reflash the pcm, or disconnect the battery for long enough, the pcm resets the drive cycles and will throw the OBD II not ready code.

As for RIPP telling you there is nothing wrong, not sure what cracker jack box they got their tuning skills out of, but they are flat out wrong. Something is amiss, and there is a pretty good chance it is something in the tune.


How long has the issue been going on? From the very first drive after the RIPP install? Or did the codes start coming after weeks/months of driving? A bad O2 sensor can throw the bank XX lean code, but it's usually not both at the same time. The same code for bank 1 and 2 tells me it's tune related and not O2 sensors.

All I can tell you is I've had my RIPP for 35000 miles now with no check engine light. I have a PCM tuned by RPM extreme. I'd call him ASAP

Elusive said:

All I can tell you is I've had my RIPP for 35000 miles now with no check engine light. I have a PCM tuned by RPM extreme. I'd call him ASAP

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Sorry for Hijacking this thread but, How do you like your RIPP? I've been thinking about it since I got my Jeep but I joined here recently and Super chargers for jeeps don't seem popular here haha so had me second guessing.

Ceithre said:

Sorry for Hijacking this thread but, How do you like your RIPP? I've been thinking about it since I got my Jeep but I joined here recently and Super chargers for jeeps don't seem popular here haha so had me second guessing.

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I noticed that too.
In fact I seem to be the only person that actually likes theirs.
I bought it used for $2500 but then I paid $800 for a 2010 PCM with a tune installed, the tuner, and larger injectors. I installed it in about 6 hours (the injectors took the longest) in my garage...and thats it. the tune is nice because the shift points are different in low range and the gas pedal isn't as sensitive. RIPP recently sent me the CARB exemption sticker so when smow time comes I plan to just put the 2011 PCM in and take it in (after driving it for a few days).
It's fun to blast up sand dunes and on the road it makes a huge difference.
I get 4MPG BETTER than before it so I figure it will pay for itself in about 55000 miles (at least thats the story for the wife)
With 5.13 gears and 38's it cruises all day on the freeway. I actually don't get to drive it much because my wife seems to now own it... thats OK I've been driving her scrambler.

Elusive said:

I noticed that too.
In fact I seem to be the only person that actually likes theirs.
I bought it used for $2500 but then I paid $800 for a 2010 PCM with a tune installed, the tuner, and larger injectors. I installed it in about 6 hours (the injectors took the longest) in my garage...and thats it. the tune is nice because the shift points are different in low range and the gas pedal isn't as sensitive. RIPP recently sent me the CARB exemption sticker so when smow time comes I plan to just put the 2011 PCM in and take it in (after driving it for a few days).
It's fun to blast up sand dunes and on the road it makes a huge difference.
I get 4MPG BETTER than before it so I figure it will pay for itself in about 55000 miles (at least thats the story for the wife)
With 5.13 gears and 38's it cruises all day on the freeway. I actually don't get to drive it much because my wife seems to now own it... thats OK I've been driving her scrambler.

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hmmmm you gave me hope again, If i did get it I would take it down to Dyno tune USA and have them do a custom tune on 92 octane. Since it seems Ripps tune seems to be the issue. Damn you got a smoking deal on that Kit great find!

@highoctane

The issue started with the install. As of this post, I am 80 miles into said 100mi to get rechecked, no codes. I have had to return my Jeep to stock since the problem started because of a stalled idler\snapped belt problem. Had to wait for parts and I was stuck a state away without doing it. Never got a code back to stock for at least 150 miles. Installed the supercharger again, soon after, there's the check engine light. Question though: do I have to drive said 100 miles before the code CAN trigger again? In other words, if the condition exists now, is it not throwing a code because it can not read it UNTIL 100 miles have passed? I would hope not, and hope I can go another 20 miles today without seeing it. I will retest this evening after work. Will post outcome.

I love the power the kit gives me and have no complaints other than the check engine light. I also backed off the wastegate a few turns thinking this may help with the air problem, but I'm just taking shots in the dark now.

Blown08 said:

@highoctane The issue started with the install. As of this post, I am 80 miles into said 100mi to get rechecked, no codes. I have had to return my Jeep to stock since the problem started because of a stalled idler\snapped belt problem. Had to wait for parts and I was stuck a state away without doing it. Never got a code back to stock for at least 150 miles. Installed the supercharger again, soon after, there's the check engine light. Question though: do I have to drive said 100 miles before the code CAN trigger again? In other words, if the condition exists now, is it not throwing a code because it can not read it UNTIL 100 miles have passed? I would hope not, and hope I can go another 20 miles today without seeing it. I will retest this evening after work. Will post outcome.

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Get the codes checked now to see if the OBD readiness code is gone. If the not ready code is gone, is go get your emissions sticker promptly. Like I mentioned earlier, there is no 100 mile requirement in the PCM for the OBD drive cycle/readiness state. Unless your state says you have to drive 100 miles before they will retest, you should be gods to go if you have no codes.

Ceithre said:

Sorry for Hijacking this thread but, How do you like your RIPP? I've been thinking about it since I got my Jeep but I joined here recently and Super chargers for jeeps don't seem popular here haha so had me second guessing.

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Over the last 7 years, I have personally known multiple people with a RIPP and without fail, they are always the guy who is running at the end of our pack, struggling to keep up with even a 3.8L motor going up a long mountain road and can never get up big ledges like what you find out in Moab. What little power they actually do provide always comes in too late and they always seem to have one problem or another. Most of these people no longer have it on their Jeep and the ones who still do are fanboys that will have faith in them to the bitter end. Of course, if I spent that much money on something, I'd have a hard time talking smack about it too. But hey, that's just me.

Well, I have tried to pass emissions repeatedly over the past week and failed. The system is still reading o2, catalytic, and EGR not ready. I guess I'll call the dealer to get a list. I now have 250 miles on it since the clear, both city and highway. There is still no CEL, which is good, but I have a month before the Jeep becomes an expensive paperweight. To boot, I cant afford a smoke test right now or new anything. The jeep has a ready test you can check I found. If you turn the key on without starting, and the CEL blinks and is not solid, the system has 1 or more checks not ready. When it's ready, it will stay solid. As far as the power being "too late" in this kit, in 4LO, the RPMs are high enough to deliver it. In 2WD, I pulled my 19'6" 1984 fiberglass bass boat from Georgia to Illinois without problems. Compared to how it use to pull, it's a MAJOR difference. That was right through the mountains. The power comes on strong at 2500-3500, which you should be accelerating at anyway. Not exactly tickled with the service, but I've never had any other gripe about the kit. Not to mention the other kits for the JK, including a Root kit, does not produce like this one does.

Great News!

After a couple years of trying to trace the problem down, giving up, etc, I decided to replace all seals on the top half of the motor from the intake manifold up. I have found the culprit. The OE metal gasket under the intake manifold was completely shot. It must have been leaking significantly. There were signs all over it. No more running lean. I also replaced the egr gasket, cleaned the tube, replaced the valve cover gaskets which were also leaking oil, the injector rings, plenum rings, etc. Jeep runs like a million bucks and has more power and throttle response that it has ever had. I hope this helps someone.

wow, that took a long time to sort out ... nice you figured it out :thumb:

I was looking as SC but with all the issues and additional expenses I've seen and read about, I'm holding out for an LS swap. At this time I'm waiting to see if the 2016 comes out with a diesel and pricing.

how much would you estimate the SC total cost with everything you've done to get it running right?