ProRock 44 and Trail 60 info

SmokinV10

Caught the Bug
Getting ready to do a PR44 and Trail 60 combo on my 2014 JKUR and need some advice. I am trying to avoid a PR60 for the simple fact that I have brand new Spyderlocks and Im not willing to sell them at a loss to change bolt patterns. I started to price the PR44 and want to get everyone's opinion on how "full tilt" I need to be going. I am stretching the budget a bit to "slip this in" with my double throw down suspension install. Both Axles were not budgeted so Im trying to keep cost as low as possible.
1) is it worth it to add the Reid Racing Knuckles or should I save the $500 (I already have the Synergy drag link flip kit)
2) RCV axles? Or should I save a few hundred with a lower cost set of chromoly axles
3) I have Adams 1310 driveshafts. Can I keep them (is the length going to be the same). Should I be going to 1350's? If I can defer this cost, I would like to.
4) Add this up and Im almost at the cost of a Teraflex 60....is there any disadvantage to go to the Tera 60 over the PR44?
6) Will my e-lockers still work with the Trail 60 in the rear? Will there be an annoying light on the dash showing that it is engaged constantly? If they dont work, and I have to go with Air Lockers (already have a powertank so its not THAT big of a deal), will this cause a problem with my ABS? I vaguely recall reading about some problem with 2012 and newer ABS comflict with air lockers, but I could be wrong.
 
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wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
1) is it worth it to add the Reid Racing Knuckles or should I save the $500 (I already have the Synergy drag link flip kit)

No. Factory knuckles are plenty strong and orange ones that give you about an inch higher clearance at the tie-rod will not prevent you from still hitting it. You'd be better off buying an HD tie-rod like what Currie makes as at least it can take a hit and not bend.

2) RCV axles? Or should I save a few hundred with a lower cost set of chromoly axles

Save the $400 premium and just get standard chromoly shafts with full circle clips. Trust me, I have run both and there really is no need for RCV's.

3) I have Adams 1310 driveshafts. Can I keep them (is the length going to be the same). Should I be going to 1350's? If I can defer this cost, I would like to.

The one u-joint you factory front shaft has is a 1330 which is stronger than a 1310. Running 37's on ProRocks, it'd be a mistake in my opinion not to run 1350's. Having said that, the front length will be the same but your rear will need to be shortened.

4) Add this up and Im almost at the cost of a Teraflex 60....is there any disadvantage to go to the Tera 60 over the PR44?

Put it to you this way, one axle is made in the USA by a company that specializes in making performance axles. The other is made in China by a company that specializes in making suspension lifts that break, tire carriers that break and rocker guards that can't take hits from rocks (I can post photo proof of all of this). Being that you're going to be running a top of the line EVO DTD, do you really want to skimp out on what you're most likely to break? Just sayin.

For running 37's, a ProRock 44 is all you need and is what I am running now on my 2012 JK.

my e-lockers still work with the Trail 60 in the rear? Will there be an annoying light on the dash showing that it is engaged constantly?

You can still get your front e-locker to work even with a Trail 60 in the rear and without the light still on. I have done this in the past but had Off Road Evolution set it up for me. I know there are guys on here that can probably help you figure it out though.
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Getting ready to do a PR44 and Trail 60 combo on my 2014 JKUR and need some advice. I am trying to avoid a PR60 for the simple fact that I have brand new Spyderlocks and Im not willing to sell them at a loss to change bolt patterns. I started to price the PR44 and want to get everyone's opinion on how "full tilt" I need to be going. I am stretching the budget a bit to "slip this in" with my double throw down suspension install. Both Axles were not budgeted so Im trying to keep cost as low as possible.
1) is it worth it to add the Reid Racing Knuckles or should I save the $500 (I already have the Synergy drag link flip kit)
2) RCV axles? Or should I save a few hundred with a lower cost set of chromoly axles
3) I have Adams 1310 driveshafts. Can I keep them (is the length going to be the same). Should I be going to 1350's? If I can defer this cost, I would like to.
4) Add this up and Im almost at the cost of a Teraflex 60....is there any disadvantage to go to the Tera 60 over the PR44?
6) Will my e-lockers still work with the Trail 60 in the rear? Will there be an annoying light on the dash showing that it is engaged constantly? If they dont work, and I have to go with Air Lockers (already have a powertank so its not THAT big of a deal), will this cause a problem with my ABS? I vaguely recall reading about some problem with 2012 and newer ABS comflict with air lockers, but I could be wrong.


i can only answer aa few of these for you based off of what i have read but i can still try and help :)

1. i would just save the $500 on the knuckles. also your synergy drag link may not fit since the PR44 has bigger axle tubes. i would look at the EVO drag link flip that is available for the PR44.

2. i would just get a set of chromoly axle shafts with full circle clips.

3. not sure if your current one will work but if you can i would say upgrade to the 1350 just because of its pure strength.

4. PR44 is made in the USA and will still be stronger than the new tera60.

5. i dont believe your e lockers will still work. even if they did i would suggest ARB's f/r instead. what you may have read was about no selectable lockers like a lunchbox locker (i think thats what its called) cause issues with the ABS.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
1. i would just save the $500 on the knuckles. also your synergy drag link may not fit since the PR44 has bigger axle tubes. i would look at the EVO drag link flip that is available for the PR44.

Good catch and you are correct! The ProRock44 has a bigger tube and you will want to get an EVO drag link flip that is specifically made for it.

4. PR44 is made in the USA and will still be stronger than the new tera60.

Actually, the Tera 60 will still have a bigger ring and pinion, bigger tubes and bigger knuckles. But, it really isn't necessary for 37's, is made in China and I still don't even think they have the steering figured out on it. Dynatrac was the first company to figure out the steering in relationship to the computer and has the best solution for it.

5. i dont believe your e lockers will still work. even if they did i would suggest ARB's f/r instead. what you may have read was about no selectable lockers like a lunchbox locker (i think thats what its called) cause issues with the ABS.

You can make it work but really, if it were me, I too would get an ARB up front as well and sell the factory front axle to help pay for it. Being that it's new, it'll still fetch a pretty penny.
 

SmokinV10

Caught the Bug
The one u-joint you factory front shaft has is a 1330 which is stronger than a 1310. Running 37's on ProRocks, it'd be a mistake in my opinion not to run 1350's. Having said that, the front length will be the same but your rear will need to be shortened.

Why will the rear need to be shortened?

BTW, this entire project has had the most epic "snowball effect" ..E V E R.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Why will the rear need to be shortened?

BTW, this entire project has had the most epic "snowball effect" ..E V E R.

A 60 differential is a bigger than a 44. The distance between the pinion yoke and your output shaft flange will be shorter.
 

SmokinV10

Caught the Bug
They all snowball. It's part of the experience. Keep learning and it will continue to snowball.

my wallet wants it to stop :grayno::eek::crazyeyes: Worst part is most of these are unavoidable "must do now" additions that go along with the DTD install rather than I can put this off a few months and bolt something new in later changes.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
my wallet wants it to stop :grayno::eek::crazyeyes: Worst part is most of these are unavoidable "must do now" additions that go along with the DTD install rather than I can put this off a few months and bolt something new in later changes.

Again, being that your Jeep is new, I would definitely consider selling your existing axles. Rubicon axles in good condition will fetch good money and it can help off set some of your build cost.
 

4x4Jesus

Caught the Bug
Have you thought about only doing the single coilovers and adding the extra bypass shock after your budget recovers??
 

SmokinV10

Caught the Bug
Have you thought about only doing the single coilovers and adding the extra bypass shock after your budget recovers??

I am likely doing the full DTD in the front since I wont have any bumpstop if I dont add the bypass shocks. There is a HUGE possibility that I will only do the coilovers with the levers in the back. It saves a little less than $2K (I believe) which isnt THAT Much money in the grand scheme of things but the budget is being pushed so far based on these latest additions that I may have no choice. I refuse to put any of this on plastic so the budget is, what the budget is...
 
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jeeeep

Hooked
ohh this makes me laugh and cry..i'm in the same place, scheduling an LS swap and started to look at upgrading the front axle now thinking I should do both frt and rear so now looking at the same setup PR44 and trail 60 - I want to keep stock width with 37's and it's all out of control! :icon_crazy:

and to make matters more enticing, my bank rep called me yesterday offering me a 2% loan!! damn them!!! :cheesy:
 

HDGasser

New member
When you order your ProRock44 make sure you tell them you want a raised trackbar bracket!!!

Dynatrac puts a stock one on for whatever reason if you don't ask for it, even if you get the unlimited which is specifically built for lifted jeeps.

You'll need it, trust me... I wish someone woulda told me. Talk about bump steer like a mofo!! :(
 

piginajeep

The Original Smartass
When you order your ProRock44 make sure you tell them you want a raised trackbar bracket!!!

Dynatrac puts a stock one on for whatever reason if you don't ask for it, even if you get the unlimited which is specifically built for lifted jeeps.

You'll need it, trust me... I wish someone woulda told me. Talk about bump steer like a mofo!! :(

if someone is running a drop pitman arm a raised bracket off the axle will not work correctly with it.. So they have reasons..

But good info nonetheless
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
When you order your ProRock44 make sure you tell them you want a raised trackbar bracket!!!

Dynatrac puts a stock one on for whatever reason if you don't ask for it, even if you get the unlimited which is specifically built for lifted jeeps.

You'll need it, trust me... I wish someone woulda told me. Talk about bump steer like a mofo!! :(

Dynatrac puts a beefed up stock track bar because they sell their axles as a bolt on application. Not everyone who buys their axles also run a dropped pitman arm. You cannot correct your drag link angle without ALSO correcting your track bar at the same time. To do so would result in bump steer like a mofo!!
 

HDGasser

New member
if someone is running a drop pitman arm a raised bracket off the axle will not work correctly with it.. So they have reasons..

But good info nonetheless

Yeah that's what they were saying when I called and asked. Too many different lifts, too many different options. So they stick with stock unless they custom build it for you.


Dynatrac puts a beefed up stock track bar because they sell their axles as a bolt on application. Not everyone who buys their axles also run a dropped pitman arm. You cannot correct your drag link angle without ALSO correcting your track bar at the same time. To do so would result in bump steer like a mofo!!

Think that's what I said...

I already had the drag link flipped, and my trackbar bracket was a welded in part of the Artec truss so when I hucked it in the scrap bin I didn't think twice about it when I was putting the pro rock in.

I figured hey I got the unlimited which is specifically for lifted vehicles so kinda thought it'd just work. LoL

Negative batman... Like Pinga said they've got there reasons and they were cool about getting me the right bracket, one of the guys frequents my neighborhood and has seen my jeep before around there and offered to meet up so I wouldn't have to drive to HB.

Dynatrac gets all of my axle needs from now on... Not to mention there axles are just flat out F&@?€%# sexy!!

BEAST compared to a stock 44, can't wait to break my rear end so I can do a pr60 in the rear!
 
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