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Thread: Upgrade to 60's, what's it gonna cost me?

  1. #1
    Nothing but a Thing nmwranglerx's Avatar
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    Upgrade to 60's, what's it gonna cost me?

    I've owned a jeep long enough now to know how the upgrading thing goes, you buy 35s one day and the next day you're wishing you had bought 37s. It's already happened to me a few times. Each time I've lost some money because of it. So, in an effort to be more efficient with my money, I'm looking at long term goals with my jeep. I'm considering foregoing upgrades for current axles (D30 and D44) and just going to 60s front and rear. Original plan was to purchase a prorock 44 for the front with ARB locker and put an ARB locker with 35 spline chromoly shafts in rear running 37 in tires. I was also going to regear to 5.13 at the same time. The cost for all this would be somewhere in the neighborhood of 7 to 8K. Someday, though, I might want to run larger tires with lower gearing, like 38s or 40s with 5.38, in which case I'd have to sell axles and buy new again. Wondering what it would cost to just by 60s with 5.38 gearing already and ARBs? I'm just looking for an estimate figure at this point and advice from fellow jeepers who have learned lessons from upgrades. Also, I'm pretty serious about wheeling. I may only wheel several times a year but it's a lot of rock crawling and I want to continue to push my limits. I have plans to wheel Rubicon trail and lots of other intense trails. I'd love to do JK experience....you get the picture...
    Last edited by nmwranglerx; 09-20-2012 at 10:47 PM.
    "all roads lead somewhere" -anonymous

  2. #2
    Nothing but a Thing Serg5000's Avatar
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    You can't go wrong by holding out for 60's. Once you have those you can run as small or as large as you want. From reading the way you wheel and the trails you plan on wheeling, just save. Buy the right stuff once and be happy.
    2008 X

  3. #3
    Old Timer GCM 2's Avatar
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    It's worth the wait, I waited almost two years before I dump the cash on my full build at one time. I don't get to wheel nearly as much as I want, but when I do it always seems to be doing the most extreme, challenging things I can put my daily driver through. Just got this picture uploaded from the Nitto tire rep who was filming during this years JKX, sure you could attempt this with any axle......but I launched my rig about ten shots back to back like this without a break on any suspension or axle component. My Dynatracs were worth every penny. The jeep still drives straight and true. I drive hard, but I also maintain my kit.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    2009 Black Rubicon Unlimited
    EVO Long Arm w/Envy Links
    EVO Front Double Throw Down
    EVO Lever Rear w/Double Throw Down
    Dynatrac Pro Rock 60's f/r
    PSC hydraulic ram assist
    Mastercraft Baja RS seats
    J.E. Reel 1350 drive shafts
    ATX Slab wheels
    40" Nitto Mud Grapplers

  4. #4
    Nothing but a Thing nmwranglerx's Avatar
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    awesome shot

    Quote Originally Posted by GCM 2 View Post
    It's worth the wait, I waited almost two years before I dump the cash on my full build at one time. I don't get to wheel nearly as much as I want, but when I do it always seems to be doing the most extreme, challenging things I can put my daily driver through. Just got this picture uploaded from the Nitto tire rep who was filming during this years JKX, sure you could attempt this with any axle......but I launched my rig about ten shots back to back like this without a break on any suspension or axle component. My Dynatracs were worth every penny. The jeep still drives straight and true. I drive hard, but I also maintain my kit.
    Wow, GCM2 that's a totally bad ass shot. You may have just convinced me to keep saving, lol. Thanks for the input. Part of my problem is that I have no locker right now and I really could use something in the rear axle to hold me over. I'll have to see. I got my jeep at a really good price, and it's almost paid off. I should be able to bank money pretty fast once it is but still looking at a year out.....ah patience patience....I just keep telling myself to build it right. I have a nice long arm lift from ORE, and a few other quality components so it kinda started me on a nice path.
    "all roads lead somewhere" -anonymous

  5. #5
    Addict StrizzyChris's Avatar
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    The only way to tell the final cost is knowing every detail you plan in your axles. A Dana 60 rear can be semi or full float. 8on 6.5" lug or 5on5.5", stub hub vs standard, OEM ford ball joints or pro steer, etc. But just to give you an idea the front and rear can be as cheap as 12k but realistically your gonna want some upgrades if ur already at that level and will be between 14-17k
    2013 Dune JKU Rubicon <-- Build Thread

    37" Nitto Trail Grapplers on 17" ATX Slabs, EVO BO Coilovers Front and Rear, GenRight Rear Tire Carrier, RK Front lower Control Arms, Adams 1310 Front DS, LOD Sliders, DynoMax Comp Exhaust, EVO ProTek Skids, Fender Trim, EVO 1/4 Pounder and stinger, Warn 9.5ti, EVO C-Gussets, AEV Procal, Trektop NX

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  6. #6
    Been Around the Block
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    I'm assuming 8x6.5 bolt pattern is safer due to the weight of the wheels and tires? I, too, am looking to upgrade to 40" tires one day. Stupid question, but what is the difference between the Dynatrac Trail series 60 and the Pro Rock 60?

  7. #7
    Old Timer GCM 2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JaySC View Post
    I'm assuming 8x6.5 bolt pattern is safer due to the weight of the wheels and tires? I, too, am looking to upgrade to 40" tires one day. Stupid question, but what is the difference between the Dynatrac Trail series 60 and the Pro Rock 60?
    Full float is the way to go if you are going with a Dana 60 and yes the 8 bolt option is really the preferred. Because there is so much more clamping force being distributed on the surface area of the wheel face to the wheel mounting surface of the axle end with an 8 lug, there is much less chance of twisting or breaking wheel studs. I run 5 on 5.5 full floats, the 8 lug was not an option a few years ago from Dynatrac. I don't run a V8 yet, so I don't sweat twisting the wheels studs, although it can happen over time. I prevent that by doing regular lug tightening after each trail run and always use a torque wrench to keep from inducing the twist manually from over tightening, but you should be doing that no matter what wheel/tire/axle combo you have
    Last edited by GCM 2; 09-20-2012 at 12:11 PM.
    2009 Black Rubicon Unlimited
    EVO Long Arm w/Envy Links
    EVO Front Double Throw Down
    EVO Lever Rear w/Double Throw Down
    Dynatrac Pro Rock 60's f/r
    PSC hydraulic ram assist
    Mastercraft Baja RS seats
    J.E. Reel 1350 drive shafts
    ATX Slab wheels
    40" Nitto Mud Grapplers

  8. #8
    Nothing but a Thing highoctane's Avatar
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    I can't wait to have Dynatrac axles under my JK. I plan to do like Greg did and have evo do it all at once(Dynatrac axles, high clearance long arm, DTD front&rear w/evo lever, plus some other goodies), hopefully in time for EJS, when I plan to come home from Afghan for 30 days R&R. I just need to figure out high pinion or low pinion rear. Dead set of 8 lug and FF rear. Those axles look gorgeous under any JK.

  9. #9
    Knows a Thing or Two RDE2ROK's Avatar
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    I can tell you what the front cost! Pro Rock, 8 lug, big brake kit, ARBs,5:38s and all the upgrades, with the exception of upgraded shafts ( I simply ran out of money) delivered to AZ. Just under 9k! Shafts can always be upgraded down the road. 8 lug FF rear coming up next! I'm so stoked I can't even sleep at night!
    IT'S JUST AN "X"

  10. #10
    Been Around the Block Mikes Offroad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sm_rubi View Post
    Greg I wish we would have caught that shot (or any of the 10 for that matter) it really was great wheeling with you and I appreciate all the help you gave! You're top notch in my book! Okay love fest over...we're headed the PR60 route at least for the rear and we'll see where we end up going with the front. If we ever decide to go 40's we'll replace the PR44 but we do have a smiley face rear D44 so it's going be replace before Moab EJS... Dyantrac has been great and love the fact they are built here in the USA with US materials, costly but I've learned you get what you pay for and Dyntrac is the best!
    So you convinced the other half that a rear 60 is needed. Good for you Frank, it was great wheeling with you guys. We will have to meet up again one day to do it all over again.

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