OR-Fab Tire/Jerry Can Carrier Install Write-Up

10frank9

Web Wheeler
This write is for the installation of the OR-Fab Tire/Can Carrier for the JK or JKU. This is my first official write up and I did this install by myself so please be kind. I don’t have photos of every step but I took photos of some of the things I know I had questions on before I started the install. Hope you all find this usefull.

This is a list of the tools and hardware I needed to complete this install.

Angle drill
Corded or cordless drill
Torx T50
Die grinder or Dremel with a grinding stone
Phillips head screwdriver
13mm wrench
19mm wrench
13mm socket
19mm socket
½ inch drill bit
3/8 inch drill bit
1/8 inch drill bit
1 inch hole saw
Rubber hammer
Lithium Grease
RTV Silicone sealant

To attach the Hi-Lift jack:
2 - 3/8 inch x 1 ½ inch bolts and washers

Before:

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First, off you have to remove your spare tire and any accessories you may have attached to your rear tailgate. I had a CB antenna with a bracket mounted to the stock spare tire carrier. I also had the Smittybilt G.E.A.R. tailgate cover installed. All of this came off before I started the install.

I removed the stock spare tire carrier and 3rd brake light. I also removed both taillights. (I didn’t remove my rear bumper for this install, I run this way 365).

Remove the plastic hinge covers. Just use two hands and pull firmly to the left and towards you and they should pop off. Be sure to take note or mark, which one is upper and lower. The upper is shallower than the lower.

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Next remove the four screws that attach the tailgate hinges to the tailgate using a 13mm socket. Be sure to support the bottom of the tailgate on the side you just removed the hinges from as it sags a bit. Also as a precautionary measure, lock the tailgate with the key so as to prevent any dumb mistakes.

Also remove the hinges from the body using the Torx T50. (not pictured)

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Once the hinges have been removed, again be sure to take note or mark which is the upper and lower as this does make a difference when re-installing (found out the hard way). Use a die grinder (preffered) or in my case a Dremel with a grinding stone to grind down the center section of the hinge where it pivots around the third bolt (pictured). This allows clearance when opening the tailgate when the new hardware is installed.

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10frank9

Web Wheeler
Use gloves when grinding these down and make sure to take a break to let the hinge and tool cool down. This is a long tedious process with a Dremel. Guessing it would’ve been faster and less of a pain with a Die Grinder.

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10frank9

Web Wheeler
Once you’ve ground down the hinge use a bolt and dry fit it to make sure it clears when opened. If so, install the upper and lower hinges with the hinge plate spacers and the hinge plate bracket along with the hardware provided. Snug up the bolts but do not tighten.

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Attach the hinges to the tailgate with the tailgate hinge spacers and hardware provided. Be sure to take note that one spacer is deeper than the other and will only install on the lower portion of the tailgate. (not pictured)


Next remove the carpet from the left side of the Jeep near the tailgate striker pad. Pull the weather stripping away. Measure 4” and 11” up from the bottom left corner of the body and mark then center punch. A stencil would’ve been nice here my instructions did not come with one. Drill a small hole and be sure they align with the landing block bracket you place inside of the left tail light housing. This can be a pain as mine was actually 4.5” and 11.5” up respectively. Once this is dialed in you can drill out ½” holes and install the hardware provided.

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Once these are installed. Use the angle drill with a1/8” drill bit to make some pilot holes for the top of the bracket from the inside of the tail light housing. This will end up near the rear roll bar.

Drill a pilot hole for the center hole of the landing block, which will end up on the outside of your Jeep. This one is the most difficult as your angle has to be perfect, otherwise you have to widen your hole once you drill out the 1” hole through the outer layer of sheet metal. You can see in the photo that the internal hole is oblong.

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10frank9

Web Wheeler
Install the landing block being sure to coat the outside of the spacer with some RTV silicone sealant…. And install a sticker of your choice above the landing block to cover up any scratches that may have happened during the course of the install (eeek).

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Next, I installed the tire carrier rack using the provided hardware. Another set of hands will surely keep you from blurting out curse words in rapid succession and sweating excessively. The most difficult portion of this step of the install is using some lithium grease to lube up the washers and bolt and keeping them in your hands. Sliding the bolt through all the spacers and washers required some rubber mallet blows. (Note the rubber dust, reminiscent of your grade school desk covered with eraser dust during a math test)

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10frank9

Web Wheeler
Okay you’re nearly there! Now install the bracket inside of the right tail light housing. One end ties into the long third bolt on the upper hinge mount and the other needs a 3/8” hole drilled using an angle drill.

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10frank9

Web Wheeler
Now the rest I think is pretty self-explanatory. Installing the spare tire, Jerry cans and high-lift jack. Finish it up by tightening down all of the hardware and making sure the spare tire carrier gate swings open and closes well. I noticed that I have to lift up the tire carrier about ¼” in order for it to fit inside of the landing block. From what I understand some sagging is common especially when loaded up. I’m okay with some minimal sag.

Hope this was helpful. Here are some after pics.

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10frank9

Web Wheeler
On a side note this is how I re-installed my CB antenna. I tried it without grounding the carrier itself and it sounded terrible. I grounded the tire carrier to the tub and now sounds like a beaut. As you’ll see I used some zip ties creatively to allow for some flex when the tire carrier is opened and closed. Here are some photos:

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naysjp

Member
This is a great tire carrier. I chose it so that I could have my choice of rear bumper. It was a pain to install, took two of us. I got lucky because my friend installed one on her YJ so she learned some lessons. Only thing is I have a TJ and the evap cannister ended up with a hole drilled into it even though we were careful. It caused me to fail smog and sucked when the shop finally found what was causing it. 5 bolts and I could have replaced it with a new cannister had I known. :rolleyes2:
 

donyuma

New member
Nice write up and great pictures. I installed mine about a year ago and really like it, but yes it was a pain to install. Were you able to get all the washers on the hinges? I finally left out the top spring washer, emailed OR FAB and they said it wasn't that important.
 

10frank9

Web Wheeler
donyuma said:
Nice write up and great pictures. I installed mine about a year ago and really like it, but yes it was a pain to install. Were you able to get all the washers on the hinges? I finally left out the top spring washer, emailed OR FAB and they said it wasn't that important.

Funny you say that. That's exactly the one I left out. Wouldn't fit. Especially since I was losing them while trying to hold the gate and jam that damned bolt through while they were greased to hell. Glad to know it wasn't just me.
 

donyuma

New member
I did see a write up where someone used a large clamp to push everything together but it was after I had it on and wasn't going to take it back apart.:)
 

doooodo

New member
Sorry about the thread revival - anyone installed this on a 2014? In the passenger rear quarter panel, there's basically a wall between the taillight opening and the hinge backing. The bottom is also filled with that solid foam stuff (not the removable liner). Anyone with a 2014 able to install the brace and nuts behind the hinge? For the life of me, I can't figure out a way.
 

10frank9

Web Wheeler
Sorry about the thread revival - anyone installed this on a 2014? In the passenger rear quarter panel, there's basically a wall between the taillight opening and the hinge backing. The bottom is also filled with that solid foam stuff (not the removable liner). Anyone with a 2014 able to install the brace and nuts behind the hinge? For the life of me, I can't figure out a way.

Give OR- Fab a call they are in Arizona and seemed to have good CS last time I dealt with them. I bet they have a solution or at the very least point you in the right direction.
 

Sharkey

Word Ninja
Yea, I gave them a call but it sounded like they hadn't heard the problem before....

Pretty sure my brother's 2010 was exactly the same. It was a bitch but we got it done. We had to switch off contorting our arms in there and tightening the nut a bit at a time.

And yes, the wall was in there.
 

Masshole15jkur

New member
Is there a reason everyone is going around that wall in the tail light? If you pull out the foam in that housing there is a plastic plate that pops out and you are able to stick your hand right up in there no problem. Obviously you would need a way to support the tire carrier wile you do this.
 

10frank9

Web Wheeler
Is there a reason everyone is going around that wall in the tail light? If you pull out the foam in that housing there is a plastic plate that pops out and you are able to stick your hand right up in there no problem. Obviously you would need a way to support the tire carrier wile you do this.

He said there was permanent foam not removable like past Jeeps.
 

t8er

New member
Yea, I gave them a call but it sounded like they hadn't heard the problem before. Here's some pictures and video of it - am I just being a pansy and I need to figure a way around it, or is this little wall thing really in the way?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbKC_kcJ4GQ&feature=youtu.be

I've got a 2014 and it's an issue. Basically jeep has extra bracing in there now. ORFab when I installed it had no solution and over a year later everything is still good without the other bracket which includes me hitting it on shelfs coming down or dragging it going up obstacles.
 
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