Clicking and grinding noise at front end.

CSINEV

CSINEV

New member
I have a 2013 Jeep Wrangler Sport. Auto trans, stock, 35" tires on 17" rims after market, 4" Rubican life, stock differential, 29k miles.

I have a clicking noise and grinding noise at low speeds only. And it seems worse when the jeep is ran from a cold start. I live in Las Vegas, so by cold I mean haven't been ran in over 5 hours or more. Once the jeep is warmed up seems to go away for the most part but still can hear it a little when decreasing speed to come to a stop. I changed the differential fluid, not low, a little dark, and a little gunk on plug where I drained it from but that's it. I put both front tires on jacks and found no movement when trying to shack the tire up down or left right. When I spin the tire by hand it seems to have a little grind when spinning but because I can't so it fast enough I'm not sure. Visually I can see nothing rubbing or grinding. My stirring control arms I can move with my hand they seem a little lose in the joints but I was told that is normal and not the issue.

This problem is new like three to four weeks and yes within the 29k miles on the jeep she has had a lot of off road time and highway time. Does not Have lock out hubs.

Any help would be awesome thank you
 
olram30

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
Do you still have the factory drive shaft? Sometimes they click also. Make a 100% sure exactly what's wrong before you put any money into your problems.
 
olram30

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
Check the joint at the transfer case. (Rezeppa) I think it's called. How does the boot look? 4" lift on a factory shaft doesn't last long due to the increased angle.
 
CSINEV

CSINEV

New member
olram30 said:
Check the joint at the transfer case. (Rezeppa) I think it's called. How does the boot look? 4" lift on a factory shaft doesn't last long due to the increased angle.
Click to expand...

What doesn't last long? The drive shaft, U-joint, or transfer case? The boot looked normal not torn or dislodged. Should I remove it and look inside?
 
olram30

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
CSINEV said:
What doesn't last long? The drive shaft, U-joint, or transfer case? The boot looked normal not torn or dislodged. Should I remove it and look inside?
Click to expand...

not saying this is the problem for sure, but something to inspect. You ever heard a front wheel drive car with bad cv joints? How they click? Your factory shaft has a similar joint at the transfer case. Here's a picture.
 

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CSINEV

CSINEV

New member
Visually I can see nothing out of the ordinary. No crackers in the boot or leaking fluid. No rubbing or loose wiggle with hand. Wondering, should. Disassemble it and look internally?
 
Rebel JK

Rebel JK

New member
Teamfaust had same issue last year and it was the joint. Have you jacked up and slowly spun wheels to listen?
 
CSINEV

CSINEV

New member
Rebel JK said:
Teamfaust had same issue last year and it was the joint. Have you jacked up and slowly spun wheels to listen?
Click to expand...

Yes I did that and while spinning them as fast as I could. I could bearly hear maybe a slight grinding sound.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
CSINEV said:
Yes I did that and while spinning them as fast as I could. I could bearly hear maybe a slight grinding sound.
Click to expand...

you might remove the front DS and take it for a test drive - if you're still getting the click/grind, you may have a bad hub bearing.

once you take the wheel off the ground and it gets unloaded it won't be as noisy nor will it "hang" as much when it spins.

Take the wheel off and spin the hub, you should be able to feel the grind better and notice if it's "hanging" when you spin it
 
CSINEV

CSINEV

New member
jeeeep said:
you might remove the front DS and take it for a test drive - if you're still getting the click/grind, you may have a bad hub bearing.

once you take the wheel off the ground and it gets unloaded it won't be as noisy nor will it "hang" as much when it spins.

Take the wheel off and spin the hub, you should be able to feel the grind better and notice if it's "hanging" when you spin it
Click to expand...

I'll disconnect the DF this weekend and check that if it still is there it's going to be the wheel bearing?
 
CSINEV

CSINEV

New member
I noticed this morning while driving the knocking grinding is most prevalent when accelerating from 15 mph at a slow rate. It seems to subside at higher speeds and if you back off and re accelerate with a little more RPM it seems to go away as well. Thoughts?
 
CSINEV

CSINEV

New member
Ok folks, I removed my front drive shaft and drove it. It still makes the clacking noise and vibration during acceration. It's a 2013 jeep so what could it be the u-joints at the wheel? I can't find wheel bearing for it on the enter net any help would be great thanks.
 
olram30

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
might be u joints then. Check the caps. Any look like they moved?
 
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CSINEV

CSINEV

New member
I jacked up the drivers side wheel I was able to spin it fast enough while my son listened to the grinding noise. It was coming from just behind the wheel. So I'm thinking wheel hub assembly. 2013 doesn't have bearing I can replace it the whole wheel hub assembly. What do you all think ya / nay ?
 
olram30

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
Sounding like the hub then. There is a good write up on how to swap them out. Give me a minute and I'll find it
 
2

2007blackJk

Member
I assumed hub since the problem went away once warned up. U-joints, DS will almost make noises all the time.
Glad you figured it out.
Grab a 12 point 13mm boxed wrench and a hammer to crack the hub bolts. First look to see if there's any rust buildup on the exposed threads. Wire that crap off.
I used a 21mm brake bolt and the JK's steering to pop the hub out.
Lastly, make sure the axle guides come out if you have to pull the shafts. Last thing you want is to have to pull everything apart again for seals ... Ask how I know :D

Rock auto has stock replacement/Timken bearings for $80
 
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