Run an Eaton locker off the rubi locker wiring?

Ok, I've searched but not found anything definitive so here it goes....
Going to put it a PR44 already built up in my 13 JKU rubicon and sell off my current axle assembly complete. Was thinking about trying the Eaton 4 pin e locker in the new set-up. So my question is this:

Can I use the existing rubicon locker wiring to operate the eaton?

I understand the plunger switch wont work anymore...maybe I could wire it to show locked whenever I activate the locker with a relay to fool that sensor input. It would be nice though, to use all the existing wiring and switches (plunger switch work around aside) and the factory nanny limitations don't bother me much as others....

Anyone done/tried this? thx!

Cadima said:

Ok, I've searched but not found anything definitive so here it goes....
Going to put it a PR44 already built up in my 13 JKU rubicon and sell off my current axle assembly complete. Was thinking about trying the Eaton 4 pin e locker in the new set-up. So my question is this:

Can I use the existing rubicon locker wiring to operate the eaton?

I understand the plunger switch wont work anymore...maybe I could wire it to show locked whenever I activate the locker with a relay to fool that sensor input. It would be nice though, to use all the existing wiring and switches (plunger switch work around aside) and the factory nanny limitations don't bother me much as others....

Anyone done/tried this? thx!

Click to expand...

I don't know anyone's tried, but I doubt you could use all of it. You could probably use some of the wiring, but with the integration into the TPM I doubt you'll be able to use the stock switches or anything like that. It's really hard to say without just giving it a shot. If you do, definitely let everyone know your experience!

I had the same question, so I will be looking forward to responses from anyone that has tried it.

I'm interested in this too, anyone have any experience with e locker vs arb

I think you can do it you might have to run a pilot relay off the original plug . maybe one of the electrical gurus will chime in .

just wanted to update this thread with my recent results. I installed an eaton locker up front on my rubi and used the OEM locker wiring. Used a relay to trick the plunger switch harness into seeing it as locked when I activated the locker. It works. So I was able to retain all the factory switches and wiring. :clap2:

Cadima said:

just wanted to update this thread with my recent results. I installed an eaton locker up front on my rubi and used the OEM locker wiring. Used a relay to trick the plunger switch harness into seeing it as locked when I activated the locker. It works. So I was able to retain all the factory switches and wiring. :clap2:

Click to expand...

Anyway you can post up a sort of schematic or pics of how you wired in the relay to the plunger switch?

Cadima said:

just wanted to update this thread with my recent results. I installed an eaton locker up front on my rubi and used the OEM locker wiring. Used a relay to trick the plunger switch harness into seeing it as locked when I activated the locker. It works. So I was able to retain all the factory switches and wiring. :clap2:

Click to expand...

highoctane said:

Anyway you can post up a sort of schematic or pics of how you wired in the relay to the plunger switch?

Click to expand...

X2, I'm interested in seeing how you did this. Good job btw. :thumb::yup:

Yep very doable, although I personally would replace a factory locker with an ARB and not another e-locker.

Here is some wiring I did to replace my rear locker with an ARB. I had already wired a locker bypass circuit in to the factory wiring and it still works too. Just replace the ARB Solenoid with the locker coil.



IMHO the factory e-locker is better than the Eaton. The Eaton requires WAY more rotation to engage and has to slip rotate 180 degrees to relock with each direction change. Also I have had a bitch of a time keeping the wire grommet from leaking gear oil and the connectors are fragile and corrode easily.

Teraflex (yes I know) makes a simple and cheap kit to use the plug hole to run the ARB air so you don't have to drill and tap the housing. It also comes with a plug for the sensor port. The Teraflex item number is 4350550 and it is at Northridge (I had to call and ask for it it wasn't on the site).



Hope this helps....

My schematic is stupid simple.



Nothing to stop you from doing the same with an ARB, and another mentioned.