2013 JKU Sport Front ProRock 44 and Rear Stock 44 Upgrade

I come to the epicenter of knowledge to not only inform myself but to also provide a reference for others building a similar setup. I believe the route I have chosen to be a common build but I have yet to find the information in a single thread to serve as a guide.

I am beginning my acquisition of parts to build my driveline on my 2013 JKU Sport Manual with 3.73's.

The build as I have conceived it from the knowledge I have gained:

Front Dynatrac ProRock 44 Unlimited package from Northridge
* ProSteer Bushings
* 4.56 Gears
* RCV Shafts
* ARB Locker
* Coast 1310 Yoke

Front Coast 1310 Shaft

Rear JE Reel OE 1310 Shaft (Ease of installation with factory flanges???)

Nitro 30 Spline Rear 44 Shafts (Open to suggestions)

Rear 4.56 gears with install kit (Brand?)

Rear ARB Locker


Looking for advice on the above. What am I missing? What would you do differently?

Some additional things to give an idea of what I want to be able to do with the rig.

* Mild Rock Crawling (Still a novice but feel fear of breaking is limiting my willingness to try things).
* Building rig to be able to run and LEARN while on Black Hills Jeep Jamboree this fall.
* Covering most of the Western half of the TransAmerican Trail this coming summer. I know us 4 wheelers get poopoo'd on for that but it's an intriguing way to traverse the country.
* Not really a daily driver (Work from home) but still have to cover vast stretches of interstate or Hwy to get to wheeling locations. (Can't wait to move to CO in 3 years)
* Wheel about once a month at Tuttle Creek ORV Park in Kansas. Everything from limestone ledges to door deep mud to dirt hill climbs to a rock garden.

***Most important item to note is that I will be installing everything myself in my garage EXCEPT the rear gear/locker install.***

I look forward to hearing the wise words from all here. I plan to start ordering stuff over the next month in hopes that by the time I have everything it won't be -2 outside. Will be hard staring at that axle just sitting there.

Thanks in advance everyone.

Troy

You are correct that is the most common way for majority of us. I am currently working towards that. PR44 up front while leaving the sport rear intact.

My two cents to this (as this is similar to my route).

What size tires? If you are going to run 35s then you can run 456s but if I were you I would go bigger. I have a sport 2dr with 35s and 513s and love it with a sport rear and ARB locker. Still have a D30 upfront without a locker for now.

If you want to save money skip the RCV and go chromoly.

I would keep with the 30 spline in the rear with what you mention you plan to do. No need to spend the extra money to bore out the stock rear.

Others may have different thoughts but from my research stick to a PR44 and locker front rear with stock spline's (as you are planning) but get 513s if you want 35s or above especially with a manual.

Troy,

First off Welcome to the WAYALIFE. Post up some pics of you Jeep now so we watch the transformation.

Now to answer your question

Front Dynatrac ProRock 44 Unlimited package from Northridge
* ProSteer Bushings
* 4.56 Gears - What tires are you going to be running? Knowing this will help determine the gears. I personally am going to run 4.88 or 5.13's because I want to run 37's.
* RCV Shafts
* ARB Locker
* Coast 1310 Yoke

Front Coast 1310 Shaft

Rear JE Reel OE 1310 Shaft (Ease of installation with factory flanges???)- Me personally I would keep the drive shafts from the same manufacturer but that is just me.

Nitro 30 Spline Rear 44 Shafts (Open to suggestions)

Rear 4.56 gears with install kit (Brand?) - Not sure but I believe all gears are made in the same foundry in South Korea. I have been told this past weekend that Yukon gears are made in the USA but have not found any supporting documentation. Here is a link to a chart that has gear ratio compared to RPM http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?...-the-JK-Wrangler&p=21019&viewfull=1#post21019

Rear ARB Locker

One thing I did not see is if you have the compressor already. I would strongly suggest getting the ARB with Locker kit to ease installation and operation.

R/
Will

37's will be on the plate for the spring. Want the driveline solid prior to them though.

I currently am running 315/75R16's (35's in today's weird tire size world) and it drives pretty darn good having the manual and 3.73's. Acceleration is good. Only place I notice the lack of oomph is cruising and cresting a long incline in higher gears.

Down the road I plan on an Atlas so I feel comfortable with the 4.56 MAYBE 4.88. Looking at the chart this puts me in the green close to blue. As I said I usually have to cover vast stretches of pavment :rolleyes2: to get to the wheeling spots I frequent. So a smidge of mpg's are appreciated. I don't dwell on them however.

I'll have to do some research on the Yukons....American made is good.

Canvas JK said:

Troy,

First off Welcome to the WAYALIFE. Post up some pics of you Jeep now so we watch the transformation.

Rear JE Reel OE 1310 Shaft (Ease of installation with factory flanges???)- Me personally I would keep the drive shafts from the same manufacturer but that is just me.

One thing I did not see is if you have the compressor already. I would strongly suggest getting the ARB with Locker kit to ease installation and operation.

R/
Will

Click to expand...

Thanks for the Welcome...long time lurker. Just been absorbing. Picture soon.

I agree about the OCD tendency to want same brand. PR44 package comes with coast so that's why I opted for that up front. Rear the JE Reel has factory flanges so should be a simple swap I believe. Could be way off here though.

I do have on-board air already. I run a Viair constant duty with 2.5 gallon tank. So all I would need is a regulator to the solenoids.

Troy

I have the ViAir compressor as well but the kit required to run the ARB's is about $160 which comes with the manifold and places to mount the solenoids. I am going to swap out my OBA for an ARB set up when I install the lockers.

Personally I would error on the conservative side and go with the 4.88's but that is just me. I have about an hour on the road before I get to the trail.

R/
Will

Canvas JK said:

Troy,

First off Welcome to the WAYALIFE. Post up some pics of you Jeep now so we watch the transformation.

Now to answer your question

Front Dynatrac ProRock 44 Unlimited package from Northridge
* ProSteer Bushings
* 4.56 Gears - What tires are you going to be running? Knowing this will help determine the gears. I personally am going to run 4.88 or 5.13's because I want to run 37's.
* RCV Shafts
* ARB Locker
* Coast 1310 Yoke

Front Coast 1310 Shaft

Rear JE Reel OE 1310 Shaft (Ease of installation with factory flanges???)- Me personally I would keep the drive shafts from the same manufacturer but that is just me.

Nitro 30 Spline Rear 44 Shafts (Open to suggestions)

Rear 4.56 gears with install kit (Brand?) - Not sure but I believe all gears are made in the same foundry in South Korea. I have been told this past weekend that Yukon gears are made in the USA but have not found any supporting documentation. Here is a link to a chart that has gear ratio compared to RPM http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?...-the-JK-Wrangler&p=21019&viewfull=1#post21019

Rear ARB Locker

One thing I did not see is if you have the compressor already. I would strongly suggest getting the ARB with Locker kit to ease installation and operation.

R/
Will

Click to expand...

I have Yukon gears. The boxes say "Assembled in USA". I don't think that they are made here.

sassmouth said:

I have Yukon gears. The boxes say "Assembled in USA". I don't think that they are made here.

Click to expand...

I believe most gears are make in either India or taiwan

In my opinion if you are planning to run 37s at least get 4.88s. I run 5.13s with a 2013 manual. I love it off-road and it works fine onroad at 80. I have to drive 3 hrs for trail

JEEPAlexander14 said:

In my opinion if you are planning to run 37s at least get 4.88s. I run 5.13s with a 2013 manual. I love it off-road and it works fine onroad at 80. I have to drive 3 hrs for trail

Click to expand...

This is good to know.

You mentioned 37s and moving to CO. Get lower gears and Reel 1350 shafts. You will still need to change the flange on the front of the transfer case to a yoke and reinstalling the rear flange on the pinion gear is the same as a yoke install since you are doing a regear. At that point what's one more yoke on rear of the transfer case to have a way better (stronger) setup.

I have a '14 JKUR Auto.
Currently running 35 TGs w/4.10s. Commuting over mountain passes less than fun.

I have ordered a PR44 through ORE w/5.13
I will be keeping the rear DS stock for now.
This will be with a 3" Enforcer lift.

I will replace the rear DS later that money went to the Warn winch for now.

troy-bilt said:

.........Rear JE Reel OE 1310 Shaft (Ease of installation with factory flanges???)......

Click to expand...

From the J.E.Reel webpage for the 1310 OE shafts:
"Recommended for stock to 3” lift & up to 33” tires."

http://reeldriveline.com/catalog/re...s-p-18.html?osCsid=jv432fnjh7172q8ensihrlrpv6

Dynatrac recommended "chaw" brand gears to me. They are unfortunately made in Korea but are a quality gearset. According to dynatrac and randy's r&p there are no made in usa gearsets available in other than stock ratios. The chaw brand is rebranded and Yukon is one of the brands that use chaw. I can look at the boxes and get part#s if you wish, or if you prefer, you can call dynatrac and get it straight from the horse's mouth. Good luck with your build.