Anyone replaced their ECM / PCM / ECU

Strike Force Zebra

Strike Force Zebra

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The past few days the JK has been acting really funny. It started out on Tuesday when I was driving. All of a sudden, the engine started to spit, its almost died and then the speedo and tach started going crazy followed by almost every light in the cluster going on and off. Friday my daughter drove it to school and it wouldn't start afterwords. I ran down later that night and it started right up. I let it run and it acted fine. I started home and within 1/4 mile it quit. It wouldn't start up. It had power but wouldn't even turn over. At first I thought the starter was gone. it would just click. I let it sit for a minute and tried again. It started but wouldn't rev no matter how much I pushed on the gas. I put it in drive to get out of the middle of the intersection but it was just a crawl. It would go faster in reverse, so I backed into a parking space. The only thing I could think of was to run the codes. I didn't have my tuner so I just pulled the battery cables off and let it sit for a few minutes. I hooked them back up and it started right up and would rev. I decided to make a run for it and made it home.
The codes that came up when I threw the scanner on are P0051 02 sensor 2/1 heater circuit low, P0057 02 sensor 2/2 heater circuit low, P0031 02 sensor 1/1 heater circuit low, P0037 02 sensor 1/2 heater circuit low. Then there are the next two that lead me to believe I have a PCM issue. U118A lost communication with AFS module left, and U118B lost communication with AFS module right.

I have done a few searches and everything keeps pointing to the PCM. I disconnected the battery today and let it sit for an hour or so. I disconnected the connectors to the PCM and then hooked things back up. The engine light is still on. I have cleared the codes and disconnected the battery again. After starting it up, the engine light goes back on and I get the same codes.

Any ideas?
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
Aspenkid said:
The past few days the JK has been acting really funny. It started out on Tuesday when I was driving. All of a sudden, the engine started to spit, its almost died and then the speedo and tach started going crazy followed by almost every light in the cluster going on and off. Friday my daughter drove it to school and it wouldn't start afterwords. I ran down later that night and it started right up. I let it run and it acted fine. I started home and within 1/4 mile it quit. It wouldn't start up. It had power but wouldn't even turn over. At first I thought the starter was gone. it would just click. I let it sit for a minute and tried again. It started but wouldn't rev no matter how much I pushed on the gas. I put it in drive to get out of the middle of the intersection but it was just a crawl. It would go faster in reverse, so I backed into a parking space. The only thing I could think of was to run the codes. I didn't have my tuner so I just pulled the battery cables off and let it sit for a few minutes. I hooked them back up and it started right up and would rev. I decided to make a run for it and made it home.
The codes that came up when I threw the scanner on are P0051 02 sensor 2/1 heater circuit low, P0057 02 sensor 2/2 heater circuit low, P0031 02 sensor 1/1 heater circuit low, P0037 02 sensor 1/2 heater circuit low. Then there are the next two that lead me to believe I have a PCM issue. U118A lost communication with AFS module left, and U118B lost communication with AFS module right.

I have done a few searches and everything keeps pointing to the PCM. I disconnected the battery today and let it sit for an hour or so. I disconnected the connectors to the PCM and then hooked things back up. The engine light is still on. I have cleared the codes and disconnected the battery again. After starting it up, the engine light goes back on and I get the same codes.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

looks like all your O2 sensors took a dump, bank 1 and 2.

I'd check all the O2 sensors. The U118 codes could actually be a result of all your 02 sensors failing since it's left and right reference.

If you do need a new TIPM make sure you get one for your exact model year and it will recognize it, if you get one from another model year or 2dr vs. 4dr then you'll need to take it to the dealer. On my 2010 they quoted me $1000 to replace it. All I have wrong are the back power door locks failed and the relays are in the bottom layer....

this is the last step after removing and installing - from an older service manual, I think 2008 or 2009

Insert the ignition key and turn it to the “RUN” position and wait twelve seconds. The TIPM will collect the necessary vehicle configuration and VIN data from the CCN and PCM at this time. After twelve seconds turn the ignition key to the “OFF” position and then back to the “ON” position and verify proper vehicle systems operation.
If the information was lost or corrupted, it can be retrieved with the StarScan tool through DealerConnect.
 
Last edited:
K

Kavanji

Member
check your battery connections. don't assume they are good, take them apart and clean them.
a friend had a similar problem and it was corrosion on the battery terminals.
 
Strike Force Zebra

Strike Force Zebra

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Kavanji said:
check your battery connections. don't assume they are good, take them apart and clean them.
a friend had a similar problem and it was corrosion on the battery terminals.
Click to expand...

I'm running a sealed yellow top. No issues there. I replaced it about a year ago.

Good info guys. It's hard to believe that all four sensors would go at the exact same time. I will look into them today though
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Aspenkid said:
I'm running a sealed yellow top. No issues there. I replaced it about a year ago.

Good info guys. It's hard to believe that all four sensors would go at the exact same time. I will look into them today though
Click to expand...

Don't get me wrong but, while Yellow Tops used to be the best batteries you could get, they are by far one of the worst now. I wouldn't assume it's good. Having said that, I would check all the grounds located inside your engine compartment along side your fenders. If you've used one to ground an auxiliary device, remove it and make sure the nut is tightened again well.
 
Strike Force Zebra

Strike Force Zebra

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wayoflife said:
Don't get me wrong but, while Yellow Tops used to be the best batteries you could get, they are by far one of the worst now. I wouldn't assume it's good. Having said that, I would check all the grounds located inside your engine compartment along side your fenders. If you've used one to ground an auxiliary device, remove it and make sure the nut is tightened again well.
Click to expand...

Point well taken!! If it wasn't just replaced under warrantee, I would replace it with something else. I did just add another accessory. I have taken it back off in hopes that was the issue ( a bad ground or something). Here is a short clip of what it was like after removing that accessory and making sure things were back where they were when it ran good.
http://youtu.be/siPnC8K7HWA
It is throwing the following codes after that.U0100 Lost communication with ECM/PCM
U0101 Lost communication with TCM
U140E Implausible vehicle configuration data received
C2202 Original Vinmismatching/missing
C201 Battery Voltage High
U118B again
U118A again
U0100 Lost communication with ECM/PCM
B210E Battery voltage high

It is dead in its tracks!!
 
Tigrcky

Tigrcky

New member
Aspenkid said:
Point well taken!! If it wasn't just replaced under warrantee, I would replace it with something else. I did just add another accessory. I have taken it back off in hopes that was the issue ( a bad ground or something). Here is a short clip of what it was like after removing that accessory and making sure things were back where they were when it ran good.
http://youtu.be/siPnC8K7HWA
It is throwing the following codes after that.U0100 Lost communication with ECM/PCM
U0101 Lost communication with TCM
U140E Implausible vehicle configuration data received
C2202 Original Vinmismatching/missing
C201 Battery Voltage High
U118B again
U118A again
U0100 Lost communication with ECM/PCM
B210E Battery voltage high

It is dead in its tracks!!
Click to expand...

I'd say it's the ecu, I have seen many other vehicles behave like this, but to be safe I'd try another battery, just to rule out a very simple fix.
 
Strike Force Zebra

Strike Force Zebra

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ECU's are EXPENSIVE!
Some info for anyone down the road that needs theirs replaced. You will need your year, make, model, VIN, milage, Auto or manual and a couple numbers off your old ECM/PCM/ECU. There will be two stickers on the old unit. One maybe over the top of the other. From the top one, you will need the P/N (mine started with a P11111111XX) and the big bold number (software update number that was originally loaded on the unit). Carefully peel the top sticker back and you will need the P/N off of that sticker. Mine started with a P11111 then three bold numbers and two bold letters.

Removal of the old unit is really easy. Mine is an 08' so the unit is on the drivers side just behind the windshield washer fluid jug. Unscrew the three 8mm screws that are holding the unit on the plastic tray. Pull back the red safety clips on the four connectors that plug into the unit. Right behind the red safety clips, push down on the connector to release it from the ECM/PCM/ECU unit and pull it back. Repeat for all four connectors and its out.

The dealership wanted $800 for one and I found one online for $299. Since mine is a Rubicon, they wanted another $100 but I talked them down to $50. I decided to go with the $100 lifetime "no question asked" warranty. If I ever have any problems, they will replace and reprogram me another. With two day air to ship it to me in Utah from back East, all in I was just under $500. I hope it solves the problem.

Just as an FYI, I did remove my Yellow top battery and tried a different battery. The jeep was the same even after I cleared the codes with my programmer. I think I will replace the battery with an Odyssey 34-PC1500T just to be safe. I am convinced the battery is part of the problem too.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
Aspenkid said:
ECU's are EXPENSIVE!
Some info for anyone down the road that needs theirs replaced. You will need your year, make, model, VIN, milage, Auto or manual and a couple numbers off your old ECM/PCM/ECU. There will be two stickers on the old unit. One maybe over the top of the other. From the top one, you will need the P/N (mine started with a P11111111XX) and the big bold number (software update number that was originally loaded on the unit). Carefully peel the top sticker back and you will need the P/N off of that sticker. Mine started with a P11111 then three bold numbers and two bold letters.

Removal of the old unit is really easy. Mine is an 08' so the unit is on the drivers side just behind the windshield washer fluid jug. Unscrew the three 8mm screws that are holding the unit on the plastic tray. Pull back the red safety clips on the four connectors that plug into the unit. Right behind the red safety clips, push down on the connector to release it from the ECM/PCM/ECU unit and pull it back. Repeat for all four connectors and its out.

The dealership wanted $800 for one and I found one online for $299. Since mine is a Rubicon, they wanted another $100 but I talked them down to $50. I decided to go with the $100 lifetime "no question asked" warranty. If I ever have any problems, they will replace and reprogram me another. With two day air to ship it to me in Utah from back East, all in I was just under $500. I hope it solves the problem.

Just as an FYI, I did remove my Yellow top battery and tried a different battery. The jeep was the same even after I cleared the codes with my programmer. I think I will replace the battery with an Odyssey 34-PC1500T just to be safe. I am convinced the battery is part of the problem too.
Click to expand...

They are expensive , hope it solves the problem. If you have a superchips tune or similar, it may think it's a different jeep. That'll be another $100 to reset your tuner
 
Strike Force Zebra

Strike Force Zebra

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jeeeep said:
They are expensive , hope it solves the problem. If you have a superchips tune or similar, it may think it's a different jeep. That'll be another $100 to reset your tuner
Click to expand...

It will come with the same VIN programed in so I shouldn't have an issue. That's what they told me at least. I asked about that:thumb:
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
Aspenkid said:
It will come with the same VIN programed in so I shouldn't have an issue. That's what they told me at least. I asked about that:thumb:
Click to expand...

oh that's cool, I'm waiting to see how yours turns out, I may get one to have a backup for my 2010 as I don't plan on getting rid of it.
 
NFRs2000NYC

NFRs2000NYC

Caught the Bug
wayoflife said:
Don't get me wrong but, while Yellow Tops used to be the best batteries you could get, they are by far one of the worst now. I wouldn't assume it's good. Having said that, I would check all the grounds located inside your engine compartment along side your fenders. If you've used one to ground an auxiliary device, remove it and make sure the nut is tightened again well.
Click to expand...

Yup. I used to run nothing but yellowtops, now I wouldn't run one if it was given to me for free. If you want the best, get an Odyssey, but IMHO, die hard platinums are excellent batteries and I love being able to swap em out at any sears in the country if the need arises (warranty.)
 
Strike Force Zebra

Strike Force Zebra

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NFRs2000NYC said:
Yup. I used to run nothing but yellowtops, now I wouldn't run one if it was given to me for free. If you want the best, get an Odyssey, but IMHO, die hard platinums are excellent batteries and I love being able to swap em out at any sears in the country if the need arises (warranty.)
Click to expand...

From what I've read, Die Hard Platinums and Odysseys are the same thing, just different labels. I hear us on the Sears may = more warrantee stores!
 
Strike Force Zebra

Strike Force Zebra

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The new ECM came in today. I plugged it in after work to see if it was the fix. I plugged it in, reconnected the battery, reset the codes and......https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e369MPE86SY&feature=youtu.be
NOPE! it didn't fix it. It started up after a minute of trying and you can hear the jeep running in the background. As I tried to push on the gas, nothing. You can see one of the lights on the dash is )z( in red. It has to do with the throttle...The engine would not rev. I turned it off and it wouldn't start again. It was throwing 13 codes.

By the way, I took the Yellow top battery back to the store and had them put a test load on it while I was waiting for the ECM. It failed! Yep, less than a year old and it failed. I traded it out for a Red Top. It was only $13.00. Down the road, I will for sure trade it out for an Odyssey.

The Jeep will not start now....nothing. It sounds like a starter is going out....

I winched it up on the trailer tonight. It's off to the dealership in the morning.:eek:
 
Tigrcky

Tigrcky

New member
Aspenkid said:
The new ECM came in today. I plugged it in after work to see if it was the fix. I plugged it in, reconnected the battery, reset the codes and......https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e369MPE86SY&feature=youtu.be
NOPE! it didn't fix it. It started up after a minute of trying and you can hear the jeep running in the background. As I tried to push on the gas, nothing. You can see one of the lights on the dash is )z( in red. It has to do with the throttle...The engine would not rev. I turned it off and it wouldn't start again. It was throwing 13 codes.

By the way, I took the Yellow top battery back to the store and had them put a test load on it while I was waiting for the ECM. It failed! Yep, less than a year old and it failed. I traded it out for a Red Top. It was only $13.00. Down the road, I will for sure trade it out for an Odyssey.

The Jeep will not start now....nothing. It sounds like a starter is going out....

I winched it up on the trailer tonight. It's off to the dealership in the morning.:eek:
Click to expand...

Just now caught up on this again, normally you have to program the ecu to the vehicle, have them reflash your old one and if it fixes it then you can return the one you bought, sorry I didn't suggest this before.
 
Strike Force Zebra

Strike Force Zebra

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Tigrcky said:
Just now caught up on this again, normally you have to program the ecu to the vehicle, have them reflash your old one and if it fixes it then you can return the one you bought, sorry I didn't suggest this before.
Click to expand...

The new one was flashed already from them. It was plug and play. I can send the new one back for a nominal fee. I curious to see what the dealership has to say.
 
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