BIG MONEY? thoughts on these price quotes?

tlminh · Mar 5, 2015

Goes onto a 2012 JKU sport
2.5 inch lift on 35s
already with OBA
already with SPOD
D30 front (already trussed and gusseted)
D44 rear
3.73 gears, no lockers or LSD

Daily driver but occasional weekend warrior
Do some rock crawling while there

from reputable 4x4 shop in midwest, Tax not included

1. ARB front and rear install 3440

2. ARB front, rear, and regear 4210

3. regear, ARB rear, truetrac front 3750

4. Repace front D30 with Tera44, ARBs, regear, ball joints, aftermarket shafts with spicer ujoints, ARB rear and re-gear 7600

thoughts?

noroad · Mar 5, 2015

tlminh said:
Goes onto a 2012 JKU sport
2.5 inch lift on 35s
already with OBA
already with SPOD
D30 front (already trussed and gusseted)
D44 rear
3.73 gears, no lockers or LSD

Daily driver but occasional weekend warrior
Do some rock crawling while there

from reputable 4x4 shop in midwest, Tax not included

1. ARB front and rear install 3440

2. ARB front, rear, and regear 4210

3. regear, ARB rear, truetrac front 3750

4. Repace front D30 with Tera44, ARBs, regear, ball joints, aftermarket shafts with spicer ujoints, ARB rear and re-gear 7600

thoughts?

I would not buy a tera44, also i would not lock a dana 30. that being said i locked the rear and regeared for about 2300$ which is about right for the northeast.

Tanner505 · Mar 5, 2015

I say option 4, why waste money on a dana 30 or even bother locking it, I would recommend a pro rock 44 over a Teraflex axle though Imo

wayoflife · Mar 5, 2015

noroad said:
I would not buy a tera44, also i would not lock a dana 30. that being said i locked the rear and regeared for about 2300$ which is about right for the northeast.

Couldn't agree more. I definitely wouldn't bother locking up a Dana 30 and I definitely wouldn't get a Tera44. Any shop that would recommend either is NOT a reputable one in my book. But, that's just my opinion.

jango · Mar 5, 2015

I probably can't say much as I am not near your progress in the build but I would rather buy a new front D44 first. I wouldn't do an arb in a D30. Just too much dime in a D30 when you'll have to buy a different locker for a new D44. In my opinion either option 3 or option 4

tlminh · Mar 5, 2015

wayoflife said:
Couldn't agree more. I definitely wouldn't bother locking up a Dana 30 and I definitely wouldn't get a Tera44. Any shop that would recommend either is NOT a reputable one in my book. But, that's just my opinion.

The shop own agreed with not locking the Dana 30. He quoted me because I asked him to, but he was reluctant about it

He said he can do both the Dynatrac PR44 or TF44, I think he works more with TF and buys in bulk from them, something like that, but he said he's had happy customers with both and can do either, it was up to me. The PR44 was just a tad bit more, like a 200 or something

7600 look like the going rate? Just don't want to get totally ripped

thanks!

ERAUGrad04 · Mar 5, 2015

Just a thought as option 4 looks like pretty "big money" as you say. What about a 5th option similarly priced?

Dynatrac ProRock44 for roughly $5200 built from Northridge (install in vehicle not included)
Gears and locker for the rear - ~$2000-2500ish
Total $8000ish

A ProRock44 upfront paired with a locked factory rear would be a pretty good combo.

ERAUGrad04 · Mar 5, 2015

tlminh said:
The shop own agreed with not locking the Dana 30. He quoted me because I asked him to, but he was reluctant about it

He said he can do both the Dynatrac PR44 or TF44, I think he works more with TF and buys in bulk from them, something like that, but he said he's had happy customers with both and can do either, it was up to me. The PR44 was just a tad bit more, like a 200 or something

7600 look like the going rate? Just don't want to get totally ripped

thanks!

You really can't go wrong with a Dynatrac axle. I don't have one yet, but have dealt with them for ball joints and other axle related questions and their customer service is second to none. :thumb:

piginajeep · Mar 5, 2015

tlminh said:
The shop own agreed with not locking the Dana 30. He quoted me because I asked him to, but he was reluctant about it

He said he can do both the Dynatrac PR44 or TF44, I think he works more with TF and buys in bulk from them, something like that, but he said he's had happy customers with both and can do either, it was up to me. The PR44 was just a tad bit more, like a 200 or something

7600 look like the going rate? Just don't want to get totally ripped

thanks!

Teraflex is made in China , with Chinese steal. I guarantee he makes more off of it.

Dynatrac is made in Huntington Beach, CA with American Steal.

Your comparing hotdogs and steak

jeeeep · Mar 5, 2015

a couple of hundred more for the pr44 at this level of investment is worth it in my opinion. if you ever decide to sell it or your Jeep, it'll have much more value than the terra.

Canvas JK · Mar 5, 2015

Not sure where you are but those prices for installing gears are little high. I am in the process of researching a local shop to get my gears done and an ARB locker installed in the rear axle.

I sent you a PM.

Fir-na-tine · Mar 5, 2015

I'll agree with NoRoad.........lock the rear and keep the front D30 open and regear......maybe chrome-moly shafts in the rear as well.....c-gusset the front D30 and run it till it breaks or until you save enough for a PR44.....

~Woodrow~

tlminh · Mar 6, 2015

My d30 is already gusseted, lca skids and trussed. Seems like it will hold for 35s, but weak point would be the smaller d30 gears itself

Fir-na-tine · Mar 6, 2015

Run it the way you have it......other than a regear I wouldn't spend anything else on the front axle.......save up for a PR44.......That's what I would do if it were me....

~Woodrow~

wayoflife · Mar 6, 2015

tlminh said:
My d30 is already gusseted, lca skids and trussed. Seems like it will hold for 35s, but weak point would be the smaller d30 gears itself

Even a gusseted and trussed axle housing can still bend but really, who cares. It really is the least of your concerns as you can drive around just fine with a bent housing. Now, a blow axle shaft can leave you high and dry especailly if the break occurs at the u-joint and takes out your ball joints. Of course, this is to say nothing about your ring and pinion blowing.

As it is, you've already thrown more money at your axle than you should have. Do yourself a favor and just keep playing with it as is until you can afford to upgrade it with a tested and proven solution like the ProRock 44.

Of course, that's just my opinion.

ChrisMR589 · Mar 6, 2015

wayoflife said:
Even a gusseted and trussed axle housing can still bend but really, who cares. It really is the least of your concerns as you can drive around just fine with a bent housing. Now, a blow axle shaft can leave you high and dry especailly if the break occurs at the u-joint and takes out your ball joints. Of course, this is to say nothing about your ring and pinion blowing.

Been there. Blown up at the joint. Just replaced my shafts because the stock aren't greaseable. Happened just creeping down a trail.

I would save and get the PR44. You'll hear nothing but good things about Dynatrac, and I wouldn't go against any of the advice found here. Way too much blown money to even consider a re-gear on the 30.

computeruser6 · Mar 6, 2015

I'm going to go against the grain here and recommend the Tera44 housing as a good product. I bought the R44 housing to re-use the stock GKN locker, brackets and end-forgings installed for 4" of lift, and 3.25x.25" tubes. The price is comparable to a ProRock 44 and the Teraflex housing is made in the United States. The housing has turned out to be pretty durable. I also got a pretty good deal for it from Offroad Warehouse since I was getting a lot of other work done at the same time, so it ended up being a few hundred bucks cheaper for me to purchase than a ProRock 44. The clearance of the ProRock 44 is a little better though. OP, if you're thinking of buying an entire assembly new it's almost better to buy a Dana 60. If you pay someone else to do the labor and buy all components new you won't be too far off from a Dana 60. If you're going to buy a Dana 44 try to find a used one; it'll be a lot cheaper and the ring and pinion will already be broken in.

tlminh · Mar 6, 2015

I dont think they're MADE in the USA, they're engineered, assembled, but I'm pretty sure they outsource from overseas

Regardless, both TF44 and PR44 seem like excellent products and I've seen great reviews for both

Just dropping 8k+ after taxes is a BIG purchase for anyone

wayoflife · Mar 6, 2015

Yet another reason I can't stand TeraFlex - they are deceptive in their marketing. "100% engineered, designed, and built in the USA" does NOT = "made in the USA". If it did, they would just say as much. They're just hoping suckers like you don't know the difference.

ERAUGrad04 · Mar 6, 2015

wayoflife said:
Yet another reason I can't stand TeraFlex - they are deceptive in their marketing. "100% engineered, designed, and built in the USA" does NOT = "made in the USA". If it did, they would just say as much. They're just hoping suckers like you don't know the difference.

Pretty much the same thing as fast food chains stating: "Made with 100% pure beef." Sure, a part of what goes into that meat patty was 100% pure beef, but not all of it!

When that Chinese axle tube comes apart, chances are it will be a result of installation error though... :banghead:

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