Rubicon locker switches to control replacement ARB locker

Wizard

New member
I have a 2013 Rubicon which I'm about to replace the rear e-locker with an ARB air locker.

Is there any way this new ARB locker can be activated using the existing Rubicon locker switch, keeping in mind that the locker switch also controls the front locker?

If I'm unable to use the existing switch for the new air locker, will I have to do anything with the rear locker wiring to keep the front e-locker working?

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

images (2).jpg
 

ClarksAdventures

New member
I have a 2013 Rubicon which I'm about to replace the rear e-locker with an ARB air locker.

Is there any way this new ARB locker can be activated using the existing Rubicon locker switch, keeping in mind that the locker switch also controls the front locker?

If I'm unable to use the existing switch for the new air locker, will I have to do anything with the rear locker wiring to keep the front e-locker working?

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

View attachment 134272

I'm subscribing. I want to know how this works as well. I like the idea of keeping the jeep as clean looking as can be. Plus having a switch that didn't do anything anymore would just really annoy me.
 

2Cross

Caught the Bug
I think you are letting your anal retentive side get you. You'll have to get a switch pod and have a compressor switch, a rear ARB locker switch and an additional switch for your front locker and your existing switches will basically be useless.

You might be able to bypass the computer and run the factory locker to the front e-locker but it is probably not worth it.
 
I plan to do this. I will have a seperste switch to turn on the compressor, but then I'm going to use the old locker wiring to fire the solenoid and a small relay to replicate the old sensor.

I'm mid install now, I'll update with details.
 

USMCvet

Banned
I'm in the process of replacing both axle assemblies on my 2015 JKUR with ones that have ARB air lockers. I've purchased the Daystar panel that has the switch pod which mounts below the radio/Nav area. My front, rear and compressor switches are going to be mounted there. The factory Rubi locker switch will be just "dead". I'm capping off the e-locker wiring harness and securing it out of the way. I initially looked for a way to use the factory locker switch but would have to build harnesses to run up from each axle assembly to the solenoid location and then determine if the factory BCM would detect the solenoid or go into a "fault". I opted to have the "dead" locker switch and run my own. It was a six beer decision consisting of "Devil Went Down To Oregon" by Ninkasi.
 

jedg

New member
FWIW, those dash switches aren't a traditional switch. If you pull that pod and open it, you'll find a small circuit board and three wires running out of the pod. You would need to figure out the signal it's using for the locker portion in order to use it.
 
I am not planning on using the switch circuit itself but rather use the locker coil circuit. I haven't checked with the Jeep running but the power that is on the coil appears to be CANBUS free. Even if it isn't I can use a cap and diode to clean it for control use of the new air locker.
 

ClarksAdventures

New member
I am not planning on using the switch circuit itself but rather use the locker coil circuit. I haven't checked with the Jeep running but the power that is on the coil appears to be CANBUS free. Even if it isn't I can use a cap and diode to clean it for control use of the new air locker.

And this is the part where I just smile, nod, and look pretty. Pretty sure I only understood about 35% of what you guys just said. Lol.
 

jedg

New member
I am not planning on using the switch circuit itself but rather use the locker coil circuit. I haven't checked with the Jeep running but the power that is on the coil appears to be CANBUS free. Even if it isn't I can use a cap and diode to clean it for control use of the new air locker.

OP asked if you could use the OEM switch, hence my reply.
 

tapcola

New member
The biggest problem with this whole thing is you still have the computer in the system , if I had a ARB I would want it on when I want it , a lot of guys have bypassed the computer and run the e lockers off of switches . that way you can have complete control like running a locker in 4Hi . just my 2¢
 

jedg

New member
The biggest problem with this whole thing is you still have the computer in the system , if I had a ARB I would want it on when I want it , a lot of guys have bypassed the computer and run the e lockers off of switches . that way you can have complete control like running a locker in 4Hi . just my 2¢

^^^^ THIS.

I'm still running e-lockers, but I've taken the computer and those computerized switches out of it completely. I use my own switches and relays. I use OTRATTW switches with the upper light as the 'on' and the lower (bar light) as the status. So similar to what the dash switch did. Send lock command, light doesn't go solid until locked. Now I hit the rocker, the upper light comes on, then when locked the lower light comes on.

With ARBs, I would just wire external to all the jeep computerized crap. (my e-disco is now manual using the EVO kit now as well)
 

Wizard

New member
All good suggestions and information, and for those still in the process of doing the mod, it'll be good to hear how it turns out.

I'm no auto electrician, so anything I do will have to be pretty basic/simple.
 
I already have a locker bypass circuit worked in so I can activate my lockers when-ever I want. In my OP, this is a separate issue all together. My OCD will not allow there to be switches on my dash that are inoperable. Additionally, I want the locker light in the cluster to come on when the locker is on.
 

Wizard

New member
If the rear e-locker wiring (at the diff) is taped off when the ARB locker is fitted, will the front e-locker still activate with the standard switch?
 

Wizard

New member
Yes it will. You will still need to cycle the switch until you get the front on.

Thanks Safecracker.

I'd been searching everywhere for a definitive answer, and was worried the front e-locker was dependant on a signal from the rear locker too activate.

Cheers.
 
Sorry for the delay here, I've been busy with other projects. Here is a simple (As simple as I can make it) diagram to run an ARB locker from the factory switches. Note: If you have done a Rubicon Locker bypass circuit this mod still works. In my case, I can allow the factory system to "think" it is in control or I can control the locker as I see fit.

This is for the rear locker only. The wiring would work for the front as well but I imagine the wire colors are different. Additionally, I have a 2013' Rubicon. I have no idea if the colors have changed over the years.

Rubicon_ARB.png


Why would one want to do this over just wiring up new buttons.... Well after a recent wheeling trip with the wife's JK sport (that has aftermarket lockers) we were plagued with ESC issues and it dawned on us that the sport stability system may not know how to properly control the axles now that they are locked. (I.E. If an axle is locked the system should not pulse the brakes in an effort to stop a slipping tire on the other axle.) It was with us and was the primary cause for several stalls. To shorten the story here, I confirmed that the ESC does monitor locker status on a Rubicon and when a locker is on it will not do this. When the lockers are off even a Rubicon will use the brakes to attempt the best traction. By wiring the circuit above the computer thinks it is still in control and has a properly locked axle and the ESC should behave as it did before.

In reality, I think the circumstances that this is an issue are few, but it still could be a factor and honestly it was a pretty easy work around. As a side bonus, the factory buttons still have a function and the dash light doesn't flash.

Hope this helps someone!
 

ClarksAdventures

New member
Sorry for the delay here, I've been busy with other projects. Here is a simple (As simple as I can make it) diagram to run an ARB locker from the factory switches. Note: If you have done a Rubicon Locker bypass circuit this mod still works. In my case, I can allow the factory system to "think" it is in control or I can control the locker as I see fit.

This is for the rear locker only. The wiring would work for the front as well but I imagine the wire colors are different. Additionally, I have a 2013' Rubicon. I have no idea if the colors have changed over the years.

Rubicon_ARB.png


Why would one want to do this over just wiring up new buttons.... Well after a recent wheeling trip with the wife's JK sport (that has aftermarket lockers) we were plagued with ESC issues and it dawned on us that the sport stability system may not know how to properly control the axles now that they are locked. (I.E. If an axle is locked the system should not pulse the brakes in an effort to stop a slipping tire on the other axle.) It was with us and was the primary cause for several stalls. To shorten the story here, I confirmed that the ESC does monitor locker status on a Rubicon and when a locker is on it will not do this. When the lockers are off even a Rubicon will use the brakes to attempt the best traction. By wiring the circuit above the computer thinks it is still in control and has a properly locked axle and the ESC should behave as it did before.

In reality, I think the circumstances that this is an issue are few, but it still could be a factor and honestly it was a pretty easy work around. As a side bonus, the factory buttons still have a function and the dash light doesn't flash.

Hope this helps someone!

Thanks a lot!!! This is exactly was I was looking for. Thanks again.
 
Top Bottom