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Thread: FlatTop Build

  1. #101
    Knows a Thing or Two Flat Top's Avatar
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    oh yeah, had to deal with this crap as well this week.
    20180322_202519.jpg
    20180322_155846.jpg


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    2013 Commando Green JK Unlimited Rubicon - Auto
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    Build Thread: http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?26935-FlatTop-Build

  2. #102
    Nothing but a Thing Speedy_RCW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flat Top View Post
    Catching up:

    New 1350 rear (Adams)
    Attachment 297252

    Balance the front
    Attachment 297253

    Fix the EVO crossmember skid.
    Attachment 297254

    New exhaust.
    Attachment 297255
    Attachment 297256
    Your rig is coming along nicely. Good work. I just pulled and straightened my EVO skid last week as well.


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  3. #103
    Knows a Thing or Two Flat Top's Avatar
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    I also noticed this. I love my RK rear lower arms.
    20180324_163550.jpg

    20180324_163519.jpg

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    2013 Commando Green JK Unlimited Rubicon - Auto
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    17" ATX Slabs
    37" Cooper Discoverer SST Pro

    Build Thread: http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?26935-FlatTop-Build

  4. #104
    Knows a Thing or Two Flat Top's Avatar
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    Weekend work.

    Intermittent P0394 + Traction control light = new Cam position sensor. For $50 I ordered 2 but the drivers side looks like a complete PITA (pulling intake). The passenger side was the source of the CEL so we will start with it. Fairly easy install although the old sensor needs a little coaxing to remove.

    CamSensor.jpg

    I could pretty much generate the CEL at will last summer. I needed 85+ degree day plus ~ 15 minutes at 80 mph. We will see pretty soon if this was a fix.

    After replacing my unit bearings a couple of weeks ago with the short ABS wire unit I've been trying to figure out a solution for the shortness. Even after outing inside the frame the lines still looked short so I decide to try to make some plug in extensions. It might be overkill but for $14 in new parts I figured it was worth a try. I still had my old ABS cable from the original bearings so I had half the extensions, all I needed to do was figure out the female connector. Interwebs search lead me to a potential plug - Standard Motor Products S824 Pigtail. Amazon has them for $7 prime so it was worth a shot. Ordered a couple and sure enough they work perfect with the male end. The new plugs don't have the secondary red lock but the connection is still solid. Old male plus new female = new extension. Only odd thing was figuring out the color coding, 50% chance and I was initially wrong.

    Original male black ---> new female red
    Original male white ---> new female black

    ABS_wiring.jpg

    They ended up being ~13 inches long but only need to be about half that length. I wanted to err on the long side for now. Been running then for a few days w/out issue.

    TLDNR

    Standard Motor Products S824 Pigtail Female + Old ABS male end = ABS extension for front.


    ABS_Connector.jpg

    ABS_wiring_2.jpg

    ABS_wiring_4.jpg
    Last edited by Flat Top; 04-03-2018 at 08:41 PM.
    _________________________________________________
    2013 Commando Green JK Unlimited Rubicon - Auto
    Rock Krawler 3.5 Max Travel
    17" ATX Slabs
    37" Cooper Discoverer SST Pro

    Build Thread: http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?26935-FlatTop-Build

  5. #105
    Nothing but a Thing tdougherty81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flat Top View Post
    Weekend work.

    Intermittent P0394 + Traction control light = new Cam position sensor. For $50 I ordered 2 but the drivers side looks like a complete PITA (pulling intake). The passenger side was the source of the CEL so we will start with it. Fairly easy install although the old sensor needs a little coaxing to remove.

    CamSensor.jpg

    I could pretty much generate the CEL at will last summer. I needed 85+ degree day plus ~ 15 minutes at 80 mph. We will see pretty soon if this was a fix.

    After replacing my unit bearings a couple of weeks ago with the short ABS wire unit I've been trying to figure out a solution for the shortness. Even after outing inside the frame the lines still looked short so I decide to try to make some plug in extensions. It might be overkill but for $14 in new parts I figured it was worth a try. I still had my old ABS cable from the original bearings so I had half the extensions, all I needed to do was figure out the female connector. Interwebs search lead me to a potential plug - Standard Motor Products S824 Pigtail. Amazon has them for $7 prime so it was worth a shot. Ordered a couple and sure enough they work perfect with the male end. The new plugs don't have the secondary red lock but the connection is still solid. Old male plus new female = new extension. Only odd thing was figuring out the color coding, 50% chance and I was initially wrong.

    Original male black ---> new female red
    Original male white ---> new female black

    ABS_wiring.jpg

    They ended up being ~13 inches long but only need to be about half that length. I wanted to err on the long side for now. Been running then for a few days w/out issue.

    TLDNR

    Standard Motor Products S824 Pigtail Female + Old ABS male end = ABS extension for front.


    ABS_Connector.jpg

    ABS_wiring_2.jpg

    ABS_wiring_4.jpg
    Nice job!

    This reminds me I need to fix the rear locker plug before this weekend. Not sure when I broke or how but noticed when I was doing the rear coilovers.
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  6. #106
    Advertiser Exodus Jeeps's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdougherty81 View Post
    Nice job!

    This reminds me I need to fix the rear locker plug before this weekend. Not sure when I broke or how but noticed when I was doing the rear coilovers.
    You coming by for that?


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  7. #107
    Knows a Thing or Two Flat Top's Avatar
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    Another fantastic trip to Wolf Caves (4-6 to 4-8) resulted in carnage and annoying / lingering issues.

    A Rock and an Off Camber place =

    Poser pic with no idea of the fun ahead.
    20180408_122508.jpg

    Rock on the right, of camber to the left...
    20180408_130909.jpg

    20180409_192401.jpg

    20180409_192354.jpg


    Actually less damage than I expected, the B-Pillar needs a little work before I cover with EVO skins but I'm not sure what to do yet with the rear panel. The EVO aluminum skids did their job mostly, except for the top tab being torn off. I guess that's expected since these were the aluminum skins.

    Doing a check of the Jeep before leaving Wolf Caves I noticed my knuckle side drag link TRE was SHOT. The cotter pin was gone and the nut was half way backed off but seemed to be locked into place. I had quite a bit of play in the steering but was able to drive the 30 minutes to Llano to an auto parts that had a replacement. Swapped in a new one and safely on the way home.

    During the check also noticed my stock evap skid had taken a pretty good hit and was bent out of shape (preview of coming fun).

    Last week's commute to work resulted in lots of bump steer that started to lead to death wobble around 45-50. Determined the drag link flip insert was pretty worn so I've order a new one to be delivered this week. The pitman side TRE on the drag link also looks like it made contact with the trackbar (torn boot and grease on the trackbar) and now has slight pop/movement so I'll replace it as well.

    Thursday I was greeted with a MIL light when I got to work. P1504, P0304, P0441, P0445 and P0456 all Pending Faults.

    The P0304 - Cylinder 4 misfire will need to wait but all the others pointed to an EVAP canister leak.

    Weekend work:

    Inspected drag link, ordered new TRE for the pitman side. Rotated knuckle insert to try to get a better fit.

    After getting the correct steering stabilizer bracket I remounted the SS. It helps with the bump steer/ DW and the over crappy Houston roads but I still need to address the root cause.

    Rotate tires, they have gotten a off balance with the trips this year. Definitely help smooth things out and delay a trip to DT for balancing.

    Pulled the evap canister to straighten the bracket (I hesitate to label it a "skid"). Found a crack in the canister around one of the hose connections. I tried to superglue / RTV the crack but not looking good. After re attaching and a couple ignition cycles I still have the code.

    $120 for a new EVAP Canister?

    Oh well, another $200+ bucks for a new EVAP canister and a new skid to protect it. I also broke the retention clips on the vent hoses. Just Empty Every Pocket...

    Once I get rid of the EVAP code I'll address the Cylinder 4 misfire.. New Head in my future?
    Last edited by Flat Top; 04-16-2018 at 07:08 PM.
    _________________________________________________
    2013 Commando Green JK Unlimited Rubicon - Auto
    Rock Krawler 3.5 Max Travel
    17" ATX Slabs
    37" Cooper Discoverer SST Pro

    Build Thread: http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?26935-FlatTop-Build

  8. #108
    Old Timer Mike_JK_Houston_711's Avatar
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    Goddam Tom! We all need a break from Wolf Caves it seems lol


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  9. #109
    Nothing but a Thing tdougherty81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flat Top View Post
    Another fantastic trip to Wolf Caves (4-6 to 4-8) resulted in carnage and annoying / lingering issues.

    A Rock and an Off Camber place =

    Poser pic with no idea of the fun ahead.
    20180408_122508.jpg

    Rock on the right, of camber to the left...
    20180408_130909.jpg

    20180409_192401.jpg

    20180409_192354.jpg


    Actually less damage than I expected, the B-Pillar needs a little work before I cover with EVO skins but I'm not sure what to do yet with the rear panel. The EVO aluminum skids did their job mostly, except for the top tab being torn off. I guess that's expected since these were the aluminum skins.

    Doing a check of the Jeep before leaving Wolf Caves I noticed my knuckle side drag link TRE was SHOT. The cotter pin was gone and the nut was half way backed off but seemed to be locked into place. I had quite a bit of play in the steering but was able to drive the 30 minutes to Llano to an auto parts that had a replacement. Swapped in a new one and safely on the way home.

    During the check also noticed my stock evap skid had taken a pretty good hit and was bent out of shape (preview of coming fun).

    Last week's commute to work resulted in lots of bump steer that started to lead to death wobble around 45-50. Determined the drag link flip insert was pretty worn so I've order a new one to be delivered this week. The pitman side TRE on the drag link also looks like it made contact with the trackbar (torn boot and grease on the trackbar) and not has slight pop/movement so I'll replace it as well.

    Thursday I was greeted with a MIL light when I got to work. P1504, P0304, P0441, P0445 and P0456 all Pending Faults.

    The P0304 - Cylinder 4 misfire will need to wait but all the others pointed to an EVAP canister leak.

    Weekend work:

    Inspected drag link, ordered new TRE for the pitman side. Rotated knuckle insert to try to get a better fit.

    After getting the correct steering stabilizer bracket I remounted the SS. It helps with the bump steer/ DW and the over crappy Houston roads.

    Rotate tires, they have gotten a off balance with the trips this year. Definitely help smooth things out and delay a trip to DT for balancing.

    Pulled the evap canister to straighten the bracket (I hesitate to label it a "skid"). Found a crack in the canister around one of the hose connections. I tried to superglue / RTV the crack but not looking good. After re attaching and a couple ignition cycles I still have the code.

    $120 for a new EVAP Canister?

    Oh well, another $200+ bucks for a new EVAP canister and a new skid to protect it. I also broke the retention clips on the vent hoses. Just Empty Every Pocket...

    Once I get rid of the EVAP code I'll address the Cylinder 4 misfire.. New Head in my future?
    Dang Tom! I actually came out pretty unscathed this time.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike_JK_Houston_711 View Post
    Goddam Tom! We all need a break from Wolf Caves it seems lol


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    I agree.
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    2016 BU Renegade Trailhawk Anvil
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    Sold-2008 JKU Red Rock Crystal Pearl
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  10. #110
    Old Timer DWiggles's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
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    Texas
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flat Top View Post
    Another fantastic trip to Wolf Caves (4-6 to 4-8) resulted in carnage and annoying / lingering issues.

    Actually less damage than I expected, the B-Pillar needs a little work before I cover with EVO skins but I'm not sure what to do yet with the rear panel. The EVO aluminum skids did their job mostly, except for the top tab being torn off. I guess that's expected since these were the aluminum skins.

    Doing a check of the Jeep before leaving Wolf Caves I noticed my knuckle side drag link TRE was SHOT. The cotter pin was gone and the nut was half way backed off but seemed to be locked into place. I had quite a bit of play in the steering but was able to drive the 30 minutes to Llano to an auto parts that had a replacement. Swapped in a new one and safely on the way home.

    During the check also noticed my stock evap skid had taken a pretty good hit and was bent out of shape (preview of coming fun).

    Last week's commute to work resulted in lots of bump steer that started to lead to death wobble around 45-50. Determined the drag link flip insert was pretty worn so I've order a new one to be delivered this week. The pitman side TRE on the drag link also looks like it made contact with the trackbar (torn boot and grease on the trackbar) and now has slight pop/movement so I'll replace it as well.

    Thursday I was greeted with a MIL light when I got to work. P1504, P0304, P0441, P0445 and P0456 all Pending Faults.

    The P0304 - Cylinder 4 misfire will need to wait but all the others pointed to an EVAP canister leak.

    Weekend work:

    Inspected drag link, ordered new TRE for the pitman side. Rotated knuckle insert to try to get a better fit.

    After getting the correct steering stabilizer bracket I remounted the SS. It helps with the bump steer/ DW and the over crappy Houston roads but I still need to address the root cause.

    Rotate tires, they have gotten a off balance with the trips this year. Definitely help smooth things out and delay a trip to DT for balancing.

    Pulled the evap canister to straighten the bracket (I hesitate to label it a "skid"). Found a crack in the canister around one of the hose connections. I tried to superglue / RTV the crack but not looking good. After re attaching and a couple ignition cycles I still have the code.

    $120 for a new EVAP Canister?

    Oh well, another $200+ bucks for a new EVAP canister and a new skid to protect it. I also broke the retention clips on the vent hoses. Just Empty Every Pocket...

    Once I get rid of the EVAP code I'll address the Cylinder 4 misfire.. New Head in my future?
    That's quite the list! But nothing some beers and a few days in the garage cant fix up.

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