Dynatrac Axles

Spudcannons

Spudcannons

New member
I was just quoted 12k for a PR44 and a PR60 rear with lockers RCV's Reid knuckles basically the works. This seemed VERY high to me, he said he would match Northridges prices, then he explained that the axles would take up to a day each to get sitting right and clearing everything when flexed. He does stand by his work and will fix almost anything free of charge. Is it really that big a PITA to install axles and get them to cycle correctly? If anyone from EVO, or has had this installed could chime in with what you would want for this that would be great.
 
olram30

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
Extra money for the rcv and knuckles, not really needed. And not sure which ball joints either in the quote.
 
Spudcannons

Spudcannons

New member
olram30 said:
Extra money for the rcv and knuckles, not really needed. And not sure which ball joints either in the quote.
Click to expand...

All the bells and whistles-

Reid knuckles
Dynatrac Ball joints
RCV front shafts
40 spline rear shafts
OX electronicly actuated lockers
4.88 gears
Switch Pros for lockers and other shit
 
olram30

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
Shit adds up quick, never heard of ox lo lockers in dynatrac axles. I guess shop around a bit and get quotes. I'd skip the rcv and knuckles personally. Extra cost on the ball joints is worth it.
 
computeruser6

computeruser6

New member
olram30 said:
Extra money for the rcv and knuckles, not really needed. And not sure which ball joints either in the quote.
Click to expand...

I agree with this. RCV axleshafts are an expensive option. RCV rates their Dana 44 shaft for 8,000 ft-lbs, yet a Dana 44 ring and pinion will not withstand such torque, even momentarily. I bought (and recently sold) a rear semi-float ProRock 60 with an ARB locker for about $5,000. With this ProRock 44, you mean an entire assembly and not just the housing I presume? I would drop the RCV's and Reid knuckles, unless your stock knuckles are damaged. You should also be able to re-use your front wheel bearings. Forty hours does seem excessive for a couple axle swaps. It's not like your shop is the one building the axle. Myself and one other guy were able to swap out two axles, fix miscellaneous equipment damaged by Off-Road Warehouse, and switch the wheels the tires were on in about nine hours.
 
computeruser6

computeruser6

New member
Spudcannons said:
All the bells and whistles-

Reid knuckles
Dynatrac Ball joints
RCV front shafts
40 spline rear shafts
OX electronicly actuated lockers
4.88 gears
Switch Pros for lockers and other shit
Click to expand...

40-spline Dana 60 shafts? Are you getting a full-floater? Why not just get the 35-spline 1541 shafts?
 
Grubbicon

Grubbicon

New member
I would ditch the RCVs as well. IMO they make the pinion the weak link in your axles and id much rather break a shaft or ujoint then a pinion. But then again a pinion could break either way.

EDIT: looks like computeruser6 posted while I was typing and said pretty much same thing.
 
Spudcannons

Spudcannons

New member
computeruser6 said:
I agree with this. RCV axleshafts are an expensive option. RCV rates their Dana 44 shaft for 8,000 ft-lbs, yet a Dana 44 ring and pinion will not withstand such torque, even momentarily. I bought (and recently sold) a rear semi-float ProRock 60 with an ARB locker for about $5,000. With this ProRock 44, you mean an entire assembly and not just the housing I presume? I would drop the RCV's and Reid knuckles, unless your stock knuckles are damaged. You should also be able to re-use your front wheel bearings. Forty hours does seem excessive for a couple axle swaps. It's not like your shop is the one building the axle. Myself and one other guy were able to swap out two axles, fix miscellaneous equipment damaged by Off-Road Warehouse, and switch the wheels the tires were on in about nine hours.
Click to expand...

I think he was going to build both full assemblies and warranty them. It does seem worth dropping the shafts and knuckles then, any idea if I could reuse my drive shafts they are brand new and I would hate to have to toss them. I am currently torn between doing a rubi axle swap and doing this. I am worried about just destroying another axle and wasting money. Have you installed your own axle before?
 
Grubbicon

Grubbicon

New member
Spudcannons said:
I think he was going to build both full assemblies and warranty them. It does seem worth dropping the shafts and knuckles then, any idea if I could reuse my drive shafts they are brand new and I would hate to have to toss them. I am currently torn between doing a rubi axle swap and doing this. I am worried about just destroying another axle and wasting money. Have you installed your own axle before?
Click to expand...

You could always just have the pr44 built for the front and leave the axle that you have in the rear and lock it. I know I read somewhere that you had a bent axle. It is the front d30 correct?
 
computeruser6

computeruser6

New member
Spudcannons said:
I think he was going to build both full assemblies and warranty them. It does seem worth dropping the shafts and knuckles then, any idea if I could reuse my drive shafts they are brand new and I would hate to have to toss them. I am currently torn between doing a rubi axle swap and doing this. I am worried about just destroying another axle and wasting money. Have you installed your own axle before?
Click to expand...

If you have a Dana 30 in the front, you cannot re-use the shafts. The Dana 30 and 44 have different diameter shafts and spline counts. But the knuckle and wheel bearing are the same and can be re-used. No reason to throw away good components. I did two axle swaps on my Jeep with one friend last weekend. If you have the cash, a front ProRock 44 housing would be much better. You could always look for a used front Dana 44 and offer to buy only the components you need to put in the ProRock (gears, locker, carrier, axleshafts).
 
Last edited:
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Couldn't agree more with what other have said - ditch the RCV's and orange knuckles. They are both totally unnecessary and a waste of money in my opinion.
 
Big b

Big b

New member
I don't understand the installer building these when you can get them setup from Dynatrac. Also as far as fit they should pretty much bolt in like factory. What am I missing on the 40 hours labor?
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Big b said:
I don't understand the installer building these when you can get them setup from Dynatrac. Also as far as fit they should pretty much bolt in like factory. What am I missing on the 40 hours labor?
Click to expand...

There's no pretty much about it - it WILL bolt right up just like factory. You can do this in your own garage - I have done it. :yup:
 
Big b

Big b

New member
wayoflife said:
There's no pretty much about it - it WILL bolt right up just like factory. You can do this in your own garage - I have done it. :yup:
Click to expand...

Sounds like the installer is pricing bare ProRocks without brackets and is charging to set all that up. Maybe I'm wrong?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom