Protek skids order of installation?

USMC Wrangler

New member
I plan on adding all three of the skids to my '13 JKU Sport, one at a time due to my budget. Is their a suggested order of install? For instance, oil pan 1st, cross member/exhaust then trans? I've never had the opportunity to see these installed in person.

Sorry for the noob question and thanks in advance!
 

mudmobeeler

Caught the Bug
You have to do the oil pan before you can do the tranny pan. I think you can do the exhaust skid first or last but I think it would get in the way so I would say do oil pan skid, tranny skid, and then the exhaust skid.

I had to do them in pieces also, still need the exhaust skid.
 

USMC Wrangler

New member
Perfect! That's what I was wondering. I'd hate to install one or two just to find out one or both need to be removed to put the last one in.

I have the C gussets, front & rear LCA skids and the oil pan skid sitting in my NR cart.
 

USMC Wrangler

New member
So the engine oil pan skid arrived, waiting on the others.

I saw in the write-up the oil was not drained because everything was cold. Currently, the outside temps during the day are around 110 degrees and drop to about 85 degrees after midnight. If I pull all my oil pan fasteners, with the Jeep cold, would the outside temp of over 100 degrees potentially allow the RTV seal to break free? :thinking: I'm trying to avoid draining the fresh Royal Purple oil that has about 1000 miles on it.
 

Finn Sizzle

New member
I just finished up my system this past week. I Installed the oil pan skid because I was doing the Dusy trail and did not want to risk damage. When I did the oil skid I drained the oil as well, but if you do not want to, I guess you could put a jack under the pan to keep it in place, just not sure if that will be 100% effective.

The transmission nuts were a PIA to remove, but like Eddie had mentioned, get a gear wrench and it will definitely help.m

Expect about 2-3 hours for the complete install, from start to tool cleanup.
 

USMC Wrangler

New member
Yeah, thought about putting the jack up there while I take the bolts out. Then have the skid ready and have a helper lower the jack while I put the skid in place then put the jack back up there. :idontknow:

GearWrench already on the way...Thanks!
 

Sharkey

Word Ninja
I just did this install on my 2015 yesterday. I did it on a '08 several months ago. I didn't drain the oil in either. Get under the jeep and get set up with everything you need there. I didn't use a floor jack or anything else...just hold the pan with one arm while loosening bolts with the other. Have the EVO pan next to you ready to go.
 

sean.m.adams33

New member
I just did this install on my 2015 yesterday. I did it on a '08 several months ago. I didn't drain the oil in either. Get under the jeep and get set up with everything you need there. I didn't use a floor jack or anything else...just hold the pan with one arm while loosening bolts with the other. Have the EVO pan next to you ready to go.

Yup. This is what I did on my 2012 and my 2014. Works just fine but definitely have everything ready to go like sharkey said.
 

USMC Wrangler

New member
I just did this install on my 2015 yesterday. I did it on a '08 several months ago. I didn't drain the oil in either. Get under the jeep and get set up with everything you need there. I didn't use a floor jack or anything else...just hold the pan with one arm while loosening bolts with the other. Have the EVO pan next to you ready to go.

Yup. This is what I did on my 2012 and my 2014. Works just fine but definitely have everything ready to go like sharkey said.

Thanks guys!
 

USMC Wrangler

New member
One down, two to go. As stated in the spectacular write-up, I couldn't get to all four corners with the torque wrench. The pan bolt above the tab on the driver side rear was also inaccessible for me. No leaks so far, but will keep checking. Hopefully I can get on the other two next weekend.

ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1437593168.344510.jpg
 

Finn Sizzle

New member
One down, two to go. As stated in the spectacular write-up, I couldn't get to all four corners with the torque wrench. The pan bolt above the tab on the driver side rear was also inaccessible for me. No leaks so far, but will keep checking. Hopefully I can get on the other two next weekend.

View attachment 155784

Just mark the bolts off (paint pen or grease pen) where you last tightened so you can check them quickly each time. That will help
 

USMC Wrangler

New member
Yep, everything went on. The hardest one for me was the auto trans skid. That drivers side mount was a pita. I used a fixed head GearWrench. I'm not sure if a pivoting head version would've made it any better.
 

scull20

New member
Yep, everything went on. The hardest one for me was the auto trans skid. That drivers side mount was a pita. I used a fixed head GearWrench. I'm not sure if a pivoting head version would've made it any better.

Just finished my install today. I will agree that the auto trans portion was definitely the hardest part...my knuckles have seen better days lol. I used a swivel head gearwrench...can't say it really made life much easier. If anything a fixed head may have been easier while using the "cheater" wrench...one less part to pivot about.
 

USMC Wrangler

New member
I absolutely used the cheater on the fixed head. I almost considered dropping the front driveshaft, although I don't know if that would've matter either. I just pray that I don't need any warranty work on the transmission. Any regular maintenance will be done by me so I'll deal with it.

I have zero regrets installing these, for the record. Great peace of mind!
 
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