Aftermarket D44 Front failures?

BumpStick

New member
Who runs or has run a Pro Rock 44, Tera Flex 44, Rock Jock 44, or G2 Core 44 have a front drive line failure?

I'm specifically looking for people who have had ring or pinon failures.

Pics? What gears and tires were you running?
 

ERAUGrad04

Caught the Bug
I think the ask here is a difficult one. Meaning, pretty much every axle you mention has seen failures.

Anything mechanical is going to have a weak point. I think for the most part, stock front D44s are weak in the tubes and C's. We have all seen the pictures of a broken passenger side tube on D30/44s (they share the same tubes).

When you move into an aftermarket built D44, I feel the weak point moves to the ring and pinion, especially when running short gears like 5.13s or 5.38s.

If you are looking to change out your front axle, my recommendation would be a Dynatrac Prorock44 as long as you don't plan on going any bigger than 37s. Built right here in the USA, customer service that is second to none and a tract record that proves they build excellent t axles.

All of this said, if money isn't an issue, go for a 60/60 or 60/80 combo! :)
 

Spudcannons

New member
I think the ask here is a difficult one. Meaning, pretty much every axle you mention has seen failures.

Anything mechanical is going to have a weak point. I think for the most part, stock front D44s are weak in the tubes and C's. We have all seen the pictures of a broken passenger side tube on D30/44s (they share the same tubes).

When you move into an aftermarket built D44, I feel the weak point moves to the ring and pinion, especially when running short gears like 5.13s or 5.38s.

If you are looking to change out your front axle, my recommendation would be a Dynatrac Prorock44 as long as you don't plan on going any bigger than 37s. Built right here in the USA, customer service that is second to none and a tract record that proves they build excellent t axles.

All of this said, if money isn't an issue, go for a 60/60 or 60/80 combo! :)

Agreed! ^^^

Dynatrac customer service is great they helped me with my rear track bar issue, no wait on the phone very helpful.

I got a PR44 since I will not be running 40's until I have another vehicle(a 2 door) so I can do a LS swap with a PR60 and a PR80, Atlas T-case. Then I will swap the old prorocks into the 2-door and keep the madness going.
 

SASI4BT

New member
I think the ask here is a difficult one. Meaning, pretty much every axle you mention has seen failures.

Anything mechanical is going to have a weak point. I think for the most part, stock front D44s are weak in the tubes and C's. We have all seen the pictures of a broken passenger side tube on D30/44s (they share the same tubes).

When you move into an aftermarket built D44, I feel the weak point moves to the ring and pinion, especially when running short gears like 5.13s or 5.38s.

If you are looking to change out your front axle, my recommendation would be a Dynatrac Prorock44 as long as you don't plan on going any bigger than 37s. Built right here in the USA, customer service that is second to none and a tract record that proves they build excellent t axles.

All of this said, if money isn't an issue, go for a 60/60 or 60/80 combo! :)

This pretty much sums it all up! I run a Prorock 44, with 538s. I broke the left axle joint, which also ruined the axle. While changing it out, I found a chipped ring tooth, but not sure it was related. I'm not surprised I broke, it probably won't be the last time as I'm way over torque and tire size recommendations. I'm surprised how much of a beating the Dynatrac will take! Hopefully it holds together long enough to still be worth something when it's replaced with a 60!
 

ClarksAdventures

New member
This pretty much sums it all up! I run a Prorock 44, with 538s. I broke the left axle joint, which also ruined the axle. While changing it out, I found a chipped ring tooth, but not sure it was related. I'm not surprised I broke, it probably won't be the last time as I'm way over torque and tire size recommendations. I'm surprised how much of a beating the Dynatrac will take! Hopefully it holds together long enough to still be worth something when it's replaced with a 60!

Haha, but you are running a cummins 4bt and 40's. Even though you broke, that sure was a fun trip.
 

BumpStick

New member
I'm planning on running 37x14 17 Irok bias ply on aluminium beadlocks with 5.38s. But I may up it to 39.5x13.50 Iroks or 40x16 Swamper LTBs. I have a 2dr and will stay with the stock 3.6 with auto. Due to the almost bottomless mud you run across in Florida I am building my rig to be light (my aftermarket bumpers will be replaced with aluminum ones, and i an ordering the RK OffRoad Pro stretch with the aluminum arms) to stay on top of the mud. My DD is my motorcycle and if the weather is bad I just drive my wife's Ram, she doesn't work any more. And cost is also a concern. Maybe in several years it won't be and I will do a 7.0 LS with PR60/PR80. But that is way too fast in the future to think about.
 

Spudcannons

New member
I'm planning on running 37x14 17 Irok bias ply on aluminium beadlocks with 5.38s. But I may up it to 39.5x13.50 Iroks or 40x16 Swamper LTBs. I have a 2dr and will stay with the stock 3.6 with auto. Due to the almost bottomless mud you run across in Florida I am building my rig to be light (my aftermarket bumpers will be replaced with aluminum ones, and i an ordering the RK OffRoad Pro stretch with the aluminum arms) to stay on top of the mud. My DD is my motorcycle and if the weather is bad I just drive my wife's Ram, she doesn't work any more. And cost is also a concern. Maybe in several years it won't be and I will do a 7.0 LS with PR60/PR80. But that is way too fast in the future to think about.

A D44 will have a tiny pinion with 5.38s, 5.13 is as low as you want to go. Those Iroks are going to be very heavy I would say get PR60s front and rear then 5.38 will be fine. If cost is an issue like you said better to run some smaller/lighter tires. The PR60s will be 16k without full float rear and closer to 20k with the float rear. A PR44 and PR60 semi-float will run 12k.
 

BumpStick

New member
Bia ply Iroks are not that heavy, the 37s on my wheels come in at just under 100# each.

I know that the lower gears you go the smaller your pinion gets. That is the reason I only put 4.88 in my D30. With Detroit Locker with 4043 alloy shafts and C gussets I know I'm on borrowed time, even with 33s.
 

BumpStick

New member
This pretty much sums it all up! I run a Prorock 44, with 538s. I broke the left axle joint, which also ruined the axle. While changing it out, I found a chipped ring tooth, but not sure it was related. I'm not surprised I broke, it probably won't be the last time as I'm way over torque and tire size recommendations. I'm surprised how much of a beating the Dynatrac will take! Hopefully it holds together long enough to still be worth something when it's replaced with a 60!

What tires were you running when that happened?
 
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