Dynatrac prorock question

rogerk93

New member
After listening to others I've decided to go with a front prorock 44 sooner or later. looking into it they offer a unlimited, heavy duty, or both in one. What are the differences between the options?
 

ERAUGrad04

Caught the Bug
After listening to others I've decided to go with a front prorock 44 sooner or later. looking into it they offer a unlimited, heavy duty, or both in one. What are the differences between the options?

Unlimited offers 10* of caster/pinion separation as opposed the the factory 6*.

The heavy duty version has the 1/2" wall tubes.

I just ordered an unlimited PR44 with the heavy duty tubes. The extra cost of the two options was minimal and we'll worth it IMHO.
 
Unlimited is the way to go. Thicker tubes and Increased Castor.

We have all these in stock and can ship Rubicon Models same day. ARB models in 72 hours.

David
 

rogerk93

New member
Unlimited offers 10* of caster/pinion separation as opposed the the factory 6*.

The heavy duty version has the 1/2" wall tubes.

I just ordered an unlimited PR44 with the heavy duty tubes. The extra cost of the two options was minimal and we'll worth it IMHO.

For both is a few hundred extra and if that's the case it's well worth it.
 

rogerk93

New member
Unlimited is the way to go. Thicker tubes and Increased Castor.

We have all these in stock and can ship Rubicon Models same day. ARB models in 72 hours.

David

I don't have the rubicon model, but I do plan on ordering it from you guys when I finally do the upgrade.
 
What is the purpose of the extra 10*?

It's not 10 extra, it is 10 total separation versus 6

With 6* of separation if you tilt your Pinion up to bring your driveshaft inline lets say 4* that will only leave you 2* of Castor and that is no bueno. ((6(total)-4(up pinion)=2(Castor))

With 10* of separation in the same scenario (4* up pinion) that will leave you with 6* of Castor - Bueno! ((10(total)-4(up pinion)=6(Castor))

:beer::beer:
 

rogerk93

New member
Unlimited offers 10* of caster/pinion separation as opposed the the factory 6*.

The heavy duty version has the 1/2" wall tubes.

I just ordered an unlimited PR44 with the heavy duty tubes. The extra cost of the two options was minimal and we'll worth it IMHO.

I have little knowledge on caster and pinion angle if you don't mind explaining a little more.
 

Wethy

Member
I have little knowledge on caster and pinion angle if you don't mind explaining a little more.

to my knowledge pinion and castor angle are directly related. castor helps set the angle of your pinion if you have to much castor or too little it will be outside of the pinion tolerances and can cause driveline issues such as premature wear on driveshaft -u-joints/CV joints or vibrations. usually fixed with adjustable control arms. im sure others will chime in with more detailed info than that but its basic idea i think.

for instance a 2 dr jk with 3 inches of lift would roll the bottom of the axle toward the centre of the jeep, and decrease pinion angle( from factory 4.2* to say 2* for example. with adj. lower fronts you can lengthen the lower arms to correct the castor and put the pinion angle back to wear it should be, then replace driveshaft with a non CV style driveshaft and theoretically you shouldnt have any drive line issues.

i think the last part is right. feel freee t correct me if im wrong! im open to criticism :p
 

JakeJK

New member
to my knowledge pinion and castor angle are directly related. castor helps set the angle of your pinion if you have to much castor or too little it will be outside of the pinion tolerances and can cause driveline issues such as premature wear on driveshaft -u-joints/CV joints or vibrations. usually fixed with adjustable control arms. im sure others will chime in with more detailed info than that but its basic idea i think.

for instance a 2 dr jk with 3 inches of lift would roll the bottom of the axle toward the centre of the jeep, and decrease pinion angle( from factory 4.2* to say 2* for example. with adj. lower fronts you can lengthen the lower arms to correct the castor and put the pinion angle back to wear it should be, then replace driveshaft with a non CV style driveshaft and theoretically you shouldnt have any drive line issues.

i think the last part is right. feel freee t correct me if im wrong! im open to criticism :p

So in order to run adjustable lower control arms and correct my caster I need to also get a replacement driveshaft? 2.5 inch lifted 2 door
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
So in order to run adjustable lower control arms and correct my caster I need to also get a replacement driveshaft? 2.5 inch lifted 2 door

No you don't. Once you hit 3"+ of lift your driveshaft will be at a state of pinching up by the transfer case and wear the joints out. On a 2 door you need to replace front and rear once you hit this height as they will fail sooner than later
 

JakeJK

New member
No you don't. Once you hit 3"+ of lift your driveshaft will be at a state of pinching up by the transfer case and wear the joints out. On a 2 door you need to replace front and rear once you hit this height as they will fail sooner than later

So it's still at a decent height then at 2.5 inches of lift? It won't bind up too bad?
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
So it's still at a decent height then at 2.5 inches of lift? It won't bind up too bad?

Nope you will be fine. I'm at 2.5" currently and the only reason I have a new front ds is because of my prorock. I'm still running the stock rear but that will change when I get the coilovers on due to the increased droop
 

JakeJK

New member
Nope you will be fine. I'm at 2.5" currently and the only reason I have a new front ds is because of my prorock. I'm still running the stock rear but that will change when I get the coilovers on due to the increased droop

Ahh okay sounds good thanks!
 

Wethy

Member
Sorry i should have left out a new driveshaft isnt neccessary just that its a good thing to upgrade as well.
 

rogerk93

New member
to my knowledge pinion and castor angle are directly related. castor helps set the angle of your pinion if you have to much castor or too little it will be outside of the pinion tolerances and can cause driveline issues such as premature wear on driveshaft -u-joints/CV joints or vibrations. usually fixed with adjustable control arms. im sure others will chime in with more detailed info than that but its basic idea i think.

for instance a 2 dr jk with 3 inches of lift would roll the bottom of the axle toward the centre of the jeep, and decrease pinion angle( from factory 4.2* to say 2* for example. with adj. lower fronts you can lengthen the lower arms to correct the castor and put the pinion angle back to wear it should be, then replace driveshaft with a non CV style driveshaft and theoretically you shouldnt have any drive line issues.

i think the last part is right. feel freee t correct me if im wrong! im open to criticism :p

Makes sense. I plan on doing a evo 4inch long arm so I should be fine.
 
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