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Thread: Looking for a suggestion for 3.5" lift... / supporting the sponsors

  1. #11
    Caught the Bug bladeolson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sh0rtBus View Post
    If you're budgeting $10k for suspension, wheels, tires, etc., then take your pick of whatever lift you want. Lots of people in that area swear by EVO stuff, so I suggest something with King coilovers up front (Double Throw Down maybe) and a cantilever rear end. If it were me, if you're only planning on 35's, I'd try to keep it somewhere around 3" or under for stability, especially for on-road purposes. With 3" you can fit 37's easy if you want. If you want other options, look at any of the Rock Krawler systems, as they perform very well, too. And they're a little more budget friendly, although that doesn't seem to be too much of an issue.

    Wheels: Take your pick of anything in the 17" range. 18's are fine, but rubber generally costs more. 17's give you more choices, more sidewall, and tires run a little less. I just paid almost as much per tire for my 33x12.50-18 Toyo Open Couhtry RT's as I would my 37x12.50-17 Nitto Trail Grapplers. Granted, Toyos cost more for some reason, even though they're made in the same plant in GA as the Nittos. Beadlocks are great off-road, as they'll allow you to run pressures in the single digits.

    Tires....as has been mentioned....Nitto Trrail Grapplers. I've got about 40k miles on mine and still have probably another 10k to go. Great on-road manners with minimal noise for a mud terrain and they tend to balance pretty well. Good off-road traction, too, with decent sidewall lugs.

    Happy Jeepin'!
    Thanks for the awesome advice. I was under the impression 3.5 was what I needed for 35". A 3" sounds nice too. I am not closed to 37" but figured it was a bit much for daily driving. I am starting to think EVO it seems they make super high quality stuff.

  2. #12
    LOSER Sh0rtBus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MotoMatthew View Post
    The kids in the know around here aren't huge metalcloak fans but I've been very happy with my gamechanger 3.5 kit.
    I wouldn't overlook Metalcloak, either. They make a great suspension system! Know a few people here locally that have them and rave about how well they work and hold up.

    OP....how far is your daily commute? When I first installed my lift and 37's, I was driving nearly 60 miles round trip on stock 4.10 gears. It wasn't optimal, but it was doable. Changed to 5.13s back in late 2012 and it made a difference for sure. 37's probably aren't the greatest choice for daily driving, but they're not terrible, either. Won't see the best fuel mileage for sure, but you bought a Jeep so that shouldn't be of great concern anyway. If you decide on 37's, go ahead and plan on regearing for them, too. Even with 35's you'll want to consider that. Not sure what trans you have but most people go to 4.56's for 35's and 4.88's for 37's (assuming automatic trans). Those ratios are considered optimal for those size tires and put everything back close to stock as far as performance.

  3. #13
    Been Around the Block t8er's Avatar
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    I run a rubicon express 3.5" lift because I thought it was ok. It works but knowing what I do now I'd run the EVO Enforcer 4", Rock Krawler 3.5" or the AEV 3.5". Definitely recommend going with any 17" rim. 35's are good and a 3.5" lift will allow you to run full fenders no trimming. If you feel that there's a good chance you'll want 37's then save up for gussets and gears. I run 37" mud grapplers with 5.13 gears on my 2014 JKUR and can get 17-18 mpg. I will say if you stick to a more All Terrain tire you'll see better gas mileage as well.

  4. #14
    Been Around the Block sjd78's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MotoMatthew View Post
    The kids in the know around here aren't huge metalcloak fans but I've been very happy with my gamechanger 3.5 kit.
    Although not a long arm system I've been very happy with my Metalcloak 3.5" game changer ARB system as well.

  5. #15
    Hooked Saharacon's Avatar
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    I'm going to try out the procomp long arm kit.

    I'm currently using skyjacker 4inch standard lift. Very very soft ride. I feel every last crack in the MI roads I hate oh so much
    Built Not Bought

    2010 JKU Saharacon

  6. #16
    Caught the Bug bladeolson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sh0rtBus View Post
    I wouldn't overlook Metalcloak, either. They make a great suspension system! Know a few people here locally that have them and rave about how well they work and hold up.

    OP....how far is your daily commute? When I first installed my lift and 37's, I was driving nearly 60 miles round trip on stock 4.10 gears. It wasn't optimal, but it was doable. Changed to 5.13s back in late 2012 and it made a difference for sure. 37's probably aren't the greatest choice for daily driving, but they're not terrible, either. Won't see the best fuel mileage for sure, but you bought a Jeep so that shouldn't be of great concern anyway. If you decide on 37's, go ahead and plan on regearing for them, too. Even with 35's you'll want to consider that. Not sure what trans you have but most people go to 4.56's for 35's and 4.88's for 37's (assuming automatic trans). Those ratios are considered optimal for those size tires and put everything back close to stock as far as performance.
    I've got manual transmission with 4.10 , I am really leaning towards 35" my commute is about 30 miles. I am also thinking 17" wheels. Not sure if I will change gearing , how involved of a modification is that generally? Cost?

  7. #17
    Been Around the Block t8er's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bladeolson View Post
    I've got manual transmission with 4.10 , I am really leaning towards 35" my commute is about 30 miles. I am also thinking 17" wheels. Not sure if I will change gearing , how involved of a modification is that generally? Cost?
    With 35's the manual is ok but I'd recommend rehearing. I know shops like Northridge run a $999 gear special. If you regeared I'm not sure 4.56 is worth it but 4.88 with 35's would be good and keep the engine in power and on the highway.

  8. #18
    Nothing but a Thing mudmobeeler's Avatar
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    I have a 2014 with a Teraflex 2.5 inch coil lift, full fender flares, 35 inch Nittos on factory 17s and 1.5 inch Spydertrax wheel spacers. Have ran this setup for 5000 miles or so with no issues really. Jeep has an automatic and the factory 4.10s and will still run down the road great. I didn't loose any MPGs when I went to the 35s, they dropped my RPMs down when cruising down the road. I commute 60 miles a day and enjoy the jeep when we take it. We usually take the wife's car as we both work at a college campus and can ride together. Plus her car gets over 30 miles to the gallon and it keeps miles off the jeep. 😁👍

    If your undecided on a lift and only want 35s, check out a budget boost also. The 2.5 inch ones will net you exactly 2.5 inches and you can clear 35s just fine. You can trim the fender flares if you want. They are all pretty much the same unless the spacers are metal. I would look for a "complete kit" for what you want/need. You can get ones like the Teraflex kit that comes with shocks, or with shock extensions to reuse factory shocks, or no shocks so you can purchase better aftermarket shocks. Most of them will also ride like stock since it is only a 2.5 inch spacer on top of factory suspension. Plus if/when you decide to go bigger you can recoup most of your money by selling it to somebody in the same position you are in now. 👍

    I went with the actual coil lift because I wanted to get a winch ASAP and carry a bunch of tools in the back. So I was worried about the extra weight sagging the factory coils. It may have been all in my head and I had zero proof. It was just something that sounded right to me. The coils do ride a little stiffer because of that. It isn't a problem for me on the road but just got back from a trip to Colorado and I felt like it road a lot rougher on the trails than the other jeeps I was with. So I'm looking at trying to get the EVO 4 inch Enforcer and run my 35s until I can get 37s and trim the fender flares.
    2014 JKUR named NORDNDD.

    Build thread: http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?2...ing-of-NoRdNdd

  9. #19
    Caught the Bug bladeolson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by t8er View Post
    With 35's the manual is ok but I'd recommend rehearing. I know shops like Northridge run a $999 gear special. If you regeared I'm not sure 4.56 is worth it but 4.88 with 35's would be good and keep the engine in power and on the highway.
    That's helpful. I am not really knowledgeable about the gear ratios stuff, so need to do some more homework on that. Is a 4.56 more expensive than a 4.88? Can you explain in simple terms why the gearing I have now may not be appropriate?

  10. #20
    Nothing but a Thing mudmobeeler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bladeolson View Post
    That's helpful. I am not really knowledgeable about the gear ratios stuff, so need to do some more homework on that. Is a 4.56 more expensive than a 4.88? Can you explain in simple terms why the gearing I have now may not be appropriate?
    What gears do you have? If you have the 4.10s, I would go ahead and get the lift and tires and see how it drives for you. I'd probably do the same with 3.73s. Just remember your driving a jeep not a corvette.

    Going from 4.10s to 4.56s isn't going to gain you much noticeable gains in power. So the cost of the gear swap isn't really worth it as far as a labor cost standpoint. The gears themselves will be roughly the same price no matter the ratio. Going from 4.10s to 4.56s will make most feel like they didn't get anything for their money so it would be best to go to a 4.88 maybe. Going from 3.73s to 4.56s will give you a noticeable gain but if you plan on going bigger than 35s it's best to think ahead and go with a deeper gear for the 37s or whatever. So you don't have the cost of swapping gears again.
    2014 JKUR named NORDNDD.

    Build thread: http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?2...ing-of-NoRdNdd

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