Running 37s on a stock dana 30 axle
- Thread starter Donny
- Start date
Bullwinckle
Hooked
I would say probably around $3,000 to $5,000 to get a pro rock 44. I would go with that instead of running the dana 30 with 37s thats just asking for breakage in the future...:naw:
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
How much wheeling and what type will you be doing? If its just a DD you can go quite a while on it. But if you plan to wheel it's not if its when you will need to replace it. Check you local Craigslist as well.
I believe he's wanting to play. At least, I'm pretty sure I've asked before and got that as an answer.
As mentioned, I would call up Off Road Evolution as they sell complete ProRocks and work closely with Dynatrac. Nobody can get better pricing then them.
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
wayoflife said:
Thought about that after I posted that. It's not easy being as old as me (23). :cheesy:
1BAMFR
New member
For this complete package, im assuming you get to pick your gear ratio and type of locker?
Also, what type of axles do they use?
Whats the warranty on this unit?
Donny
New member
Yes I do want to go out and play! From watching many of the Wayalife videos I can say we are looking to do 85% of the stuff you guys are getting into...when Mel stands there and says you might get $1000+ in body damage on a bypassable section...I will be bypassing.
But having said that the Black bear pass...Moab...and others like that would be our goal...
Originally when I joined this site my jeep was a day old and the wife and I came up with a 4500ish budget...now we've had it for a few weeks and she and I have increased the budget to about 8500.00......so I'm taking a step back to rethink how to attack my build.
I figured it might be best to attack from a ground up philosophy...good wheel& tire set, good axles&gears, DS 1350, and a Evo Enforcer lift(unless someone can tell me of a better one). The only problem with that philosophy is no money left for all the other stuff like slides, bumpers...blah blah...
So my second thought was to beef up the D30 and run 37's on light to moderate trails for a year then buy a PR44. But as most of you say that is asking for trouble.
What is the least modded vehicle you all have seen do some of the afore mentioned events?
Donny
But having said that the Black bear pass...Moab...and others like that would be our goal...
Originally when I joined this site my jeep was a day old and the wife and I came up with a 4500ish budget...now we've had it for a few weeks and she and I have increased the budget to about 8500.00......so I'm taking a step back to rethink how to attack my build.
I figured it might be best to attack from a ground up philosophy...good wheel& tire set, good axles&gears, DS 1350, and a Evo Enforcer lift(unless someone can tell me of a better one). The only problem with that philosophy is no money left for all the other stuff like slides, bumpers...blah blah...
So my second thought was to beef up the D30 and run 37's on light to moderate trails for a year then buy a PR44. But as most of you say that is asking for trouble.
What is the least modded vehicle you all have seen do some of the afore mentioned events?
Donny
FoxC
New member
Yes...you can choose several options to suit your needs, locker, ratio, axel shafts, ball joints...etc. Check out evo's web site and youwill see the drop down windows showing the different options.
I would definitely make sure sliders are included in the first stage of your build. Even with 37's and a lift you are going to need them if you plan on wheeling in the rocks from the beginning.
You can wheel a d30 for a while until you get an axle budget going. Just do it smart and choose your lines with respect to that.
I wheel my d30 pretty hard here locally...locally. I would not be very confident taking a trip to moab or to the rubicon where failures will be much more expensive to get it home if you do break on the trail. I will have my pr44 mounted before the spring so I can hit these locations next season.
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OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
If it were me I would wait. Run 35's for a year until you can afford the PR44 and then get 37's or bigger.
Just 35" tires and wheels will run you between $2500 and $3000, Sliders $500, Bumpers $1500. Thats $5000 right there, of course those prices may be a little on the high side but you also need to factor in the lift as well. Maybe another $1000-$2000. I would go that route and then you can use the leftover to buy the necessary tools for offroading in case you break on the trail or come across someone broke and want to help. (winch, recovery gear, basic hand tools, spare parts)
Just 35" tires and wheels will run you between $2500 and $3000, Sliders $500, Bumpers $1500. Thats $5000 right there, of course those prices may be a little on the high side but you also need to factor in the lift as well. Maybe another $1000-$2000. I would go that route and then you can use the leftover to buy the necessary tools for offroading in case you break on the trail or come across someone broke and want to help. (winch, recovery gear, basic hand tools, spare parts)
Donny
New member
Soooooo....who can educate me on what I need for the drop down windows... let's not forget I'm new to this and do not know the difference between some of the options...like getting an ARB locker implies that I'll need a onboard air supply.
Donny
Trail_Creeper
New member
ARB are selectable air lockers so you will need to purchase some sort of compressor or on-board air setup, to activate them. But the have the nicety of being locked when you want them and open when you need them to be.
E-lockers are the same as the ARB, minus the need for air. Instead they use 12-volt power to lock and unlock the differential.
The Detroit lockers are mechanical, no extras to make them work, but you have to be careful taking turns at speed. It will "rachet" unlocking itself to go around a turn, then as you straighten back out the lock will lock back in place, if you decide to floor it around a corner it can lock up on you and become very tippy, or "push" your jeep through a turn.
A "spool" is the alternative to welding the spider gears together. These do not unlock and in my opinion only be used on trail rigs.
E-lockers are the same as the ARB, minus the need for air. Instead they use 12-volt power to lock and unlock the differential.
The Detroit lockers are mechanical, no extras to make them work, but you have to be careful taking turns at speed. It will "rachet" unlocking itself to go around a turn, then as you straighten back out the lock will lock back in place, if you decide to floor it around a corner it can lock up on you and become very tippy, or "push" your jeep through a turn.
A "spool" is the alternative to welding the spider gears together. These do not unlock and in my opinion only be used on trail rigs.
Donny
New member
FoxC ....How are you going to set up your PR44 front? Lockers? Gears? and??? will you be doing anything to the rear or do you feel that to be well enough?
Donny
FoxC
New member
I have already installed chromoly shafts, ARB locker, and 4.88 gears in my rear D44. The pr44 will recieve the same along with dynatrac ball joints.
RDE2ROK
New member
Donny, I will be installing my D60s this spring, if you are interested I will make you a screaming deal on a D30 ARB locker,RCV shafts and a poison spider diff cover. The rear (non rubi 44) ARB locker,Superior chromoly shafts,EVO rock star shock mounts, poison Spyder diff cover and a set of Fox adjustable shocks. And will also have a set of Raceline beadlock wheels and possibly a set of 37" Toyo's. You live in AZ and are welcome to come by and check it all out, and test drive it all. Let me know.:thumb:
Donny
New member
I will be ready to start buying my build items within last week of march and on....I would be inclined to discuss this possiblity further:rock: Gears? I'm currently at 3.73, but looking to run 4.88 I think....
Donny
While it is true that both the Rubicon 44 and Dana 30 have the same end forgings and axle tubes, the housings are quite different as are the axle shafts. The Dana 44 will have a much bigger and stronger ring and pinion and the shafts are considerably bigger and beefier - this is where you would most likely see a break.