How big of a tire on stock Axles - 2010 Jeep JK Unlimited

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captjack5169

New member
Howdy All

I have a 2010 Unlimited with a 35 front and 44 rear how big of a tire can I put on with out breaking the axles. The front does not have a locker, Im looking @ 35s but I thought I would ask here to see what the veterans say. Thanks in advance. Jay.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
captjack5169 said:
Howdy All

I have a 2010 Unlimited with a 35 front and 44 rear how big of a tire can I put on with out breaking the axles. The front does not have a locker, Im looking @ 35s but I thought I would ask here to see what the veterans say. Thanks in advance. Jay.
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Your front is a d30 not a 35 and the rear is not locked stock. If you have a rubicon you have a 44 front and rear which are locked. For the prior you can run 35's safely (37's safely if you get an new front axle like a prorock 44) and the latter can run 37's but will eventually need a new front axle as well.
 
hhunter050

hhunter050

New member
captjack5169 said:
Howdy All

I have a 2010 Unlimited with a 35 front and 44 rear how big of a tire can I put on with out breaking the axles. The front does not have a locker, Im looking @ 35s but I thought I would ask here to see what the veterans say. Thanks in advance. Jay.
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You are will get THOUSANDS of different answers. Some say don't run over a 35, some say the front d30 can handle a 37. I personally run 37s. Although some say it is absolutely ridiculous, I have not had any problems. I would also like to think I wheel it relatively hard and I know a few others that will say the same. I have only been running the 37s since February 2015 but as far as I'm concerned I feel my jeep could handle them for a while. (2008 Jeep JKU X 105k miles)
So yes I think you would be fine running 35s!
 
t8er

t8er

New member
As others have said the opinions will vary. It depends on where and how you wheel. I'd say 35's are safer than 37's because of rotational mass etc. I've got a JKUR and run 37's but that's after I did gears, gussets and axle sleeves. I realize my front housing can still go. The tubes and C's are the same on a Dana 44 or 30 so I'd say the housing is about the same strength wise. It's your axle shafts and ring and pinion that are smaller and more prone. I'd say you could do 37's just have spare parts ready or run 35's and be safe.
 
BlackBandit

BlackBandit

New member
Well 33s are safe but if you don't floor it a lot then 35s are good. My rubicon has 33s it has dana 44s front back and it's sexy. Also I saw a guy running 35s on a stock jeep jk the other day in a Canadian tire parking lot...
 
BlackHawk08jk

BlackHawk08jk

New member
I have been running 35s for a while and I like to beat mine around a lot with no trouble yet. Yet being the key word though, because I know It's my week link. So the d30 will take the abuse for a time at least.
 
AllAmericanInfidel

AllAmericanInfidel

Caught the Bug
I run 35s and can tell you that while I am comfortable with it, I have already had a pass front axle shaft failure. The Jeep was not quite a year old when it happened. The general rule of thumb is axle C gussets and 35s and you should be good to go. Depending on what gears you have, you may need to budget for that as well.
 
Ddays

Ddays

Hooked
I ran my '14 with a sleeved, gusseted, & re-geared (4:88) D30 front with 37's for over a year with no problems but figured I was on borrowed time. I just upgraded to a Dynatrac PR44 unlimited front and PR60 rear and I gotta tell ya, the difference is unbelievable. I didn't realize how much that D30 was flexing/deflecting. Without having driven the two back to back I wouldn't have believed there was that much of a difference. I would highly recommend sticking with 35's unless you are prepared to upgrade in the near future. You can always go to 37's
on down the road.
 
jnabird333

jnabird333

-
As mentioned, there are lots of variables (and opinions to go with them). Give us some more details on what your intended uses are.
 
A.J.

A.J.

Active Member
captjack5169 said:
Howdy All

I have a 2010 Unlimited with a 35 front and 44 rear how big of a tire can I put on with out breaking the axles. The front does not have a locker, Im looking @ 35s but I thought I would ask here to see what the veterans say. Thanks in advance. Jay.
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35's are fine. Lots and lots of people running them.
 
jnabird333

jnabird333

-
A.J. said:
35's are fine. Lots and lots of people running them.
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....yet we broke the shit out of ours and weren't wheeling what I consider to be hard. We need to know more about the desired use.

are lots of people running 35s and larger on a D30? Hell yes, and I agree with 35s as general statement. BUT, if the OP wants to lock and crawl big or go fast, even the 35s are too much.

Edit to add, the flip side: If the use is to look cool and pound pavement 37s and even 40s will last (as far as the R&P goes).
 
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captjack5169

New member
jnabird333 said:
....yet we broke the shit out of ours and weren't wheeling what I consider to be hard. We need to know more about the desired use.

are lots of people running 35s and larger on a D30? Hell yes, and I agree with 35s as general statement. BUT, if the OP wants to lock and crawl big or go fast, even the 35s are too much.

Edit to add, the flip side: If the use is to look cool and pound pavement 37s and even 40s will last (as far as the R&P goes).
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I need ground clearance for the most part. Im in NH and even here some of the trails I am bottoming out on. So 3.5 lift and 35s seem to be the way. I see I will need to upgrade the front axle at the minimum at some point. Thanks again.
 
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captjack5169

New member
jnabird333 said:
As mentioned, there are lots of variables (and opinions to go with them). Give us some more details on what your intended uses are.
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Some rock crawling, trail maintenance type stuff. Out where I live there is lots to explore. Last weekend we went out on a trail where Im a little close to the ground. Thanks again.
 
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mpkelley20

New member
captjack5169 said:
Some rock crawling, trail maintenance type stuff. Out where I live there is lots to explore. Last weekend we went out on a trail where Im a little close to the ground. Thanks again.
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if you are in NH, you need to join a club so you can wheel at Field and Forest. Probably the best trails in new england and definitely in NH. 3.5" lift and 35's will get you through the green trails (with some help probably) but anything more than that will require at least one locker or you will be beating the crap out of your rig. Although a guy in my club did run some blues in a 2 door on 35's and 3.21's. He just had to spin wheels like mad which leads to breakage when boucing on rocks. That will be your biggest issue on NH trails. Even though a lot of the class VI roads are dirt/mud with hill climbs, you will most likely run into rock areas that require momentum to get over unless you are geared properly or locked. Bouncing equals breaking and that dana 30 can only be beefed up so much.

With that said, I am one of those that would rather go with what I have and replace it when it breaks. Some gussets and sleeves or truss will help for a while. If you have alternative means of transportation if you break, it is your better and cheaper option. Start saving and hopefully if it breaks, you are sitiing on enough cash to get the d60 up front!

Good luck with your build! You should take a look at the NEA 4x4 web page for clubs to join. I am not kidding when I say Field and Forest is AWESOME!!
 
thardy

thardy

Banned
mpkelley20 said:
if you are in NH, you need to join a club so you can wheel at Field and Forest. Probably the best trails in new england and definitely in NH. 3.5" lift and 35's will get you through the green trails (with some help probably) but anything more than that will require at least one locker or you will be beating the crap out of your rig. Although a guy in my club did run some blues in a 2 door on 35's and 3.21's. He just had to spin wheels like mad which leads to breakage when boucing on rocks. That will be your biggest issue on NH trails. Even though a lot of the class VI roads are dirt/mud with hill climbs, you will most likely run into rock areas that require momentum to get over unless you are geared properly or locked. Bouncing equals breaking and that dana 30 can only be beefed up so much.

With that said, I am one of those that would rather go with what I have and replace it when it breaks. Some gussets and sleeves or truss will help for a while. If you have alternative means of transportation if you break, it is your better and cheaper option. Start saving and hopefully if it breaks, you are sitiing on enough cash to get the d60 up front!

Good luck with your build! You should take a look at the NEA 4x4 web page for clubs to join. I am not kidding when I say Field and Forest is AWESOME!!
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Welcome to Wayalife! I would have to disagree with wasting money on sleeves and trusses. It's simply not worth it on a D30.
 
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mpkelley20

New member
thardy said:
Welcome to Wayalife! I would have to disagree with wasting money on sleeves and trusses. It's simply not worth it on a D30.
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yeah...it's questionable how much either will add to strength. My brother in law has been wheeling his Sahara on 35's (KM2's on 15's so fairly light) for 6 years without issues. No gussets, sleeves or trusses. B

Most of the failures I have seen over the last 6 years I've owned my Jeep and wheeling with a lot of JK's is that u joints and gears are the usual failure points on the d30 wheeling in the northeast. Rock climbing on muddy trails requires lots of skinny pedal if you are not locked. That tends to explode something at some point. we have fixed many u joints on the trail but when gears go...not so much.
 
thardy

thardy

Banned
mpkelley20 said:
yeah...it's questionable how much either will add to strength. My brother in law has been wheeling his Sahara on 35's (KM2's on 15's so fairly light) for 6 years without issues. No gussets, sleeves or trusses. B

Most of the failures I have seen over the last 6 years I've owned my Jeep and wheeling with a lot of JK's is that u joints and gears are the usual failure points on the d30 wheeling in the northeast. Rock climbing on muddy trails requires lots of skinny pedal if you are not locked. That tends to explode something at some point. we have fixed many u joints on the trail but when gears go...not so much.
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So if their benefits are questionable, why would you suggest it?
 
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