PR44 Questions

While researching for winter/spring projects I have become so confused on locker options and PR44 housing differences that I just thought I would post my goal here and hopefully you can set me straight.

Both the wife and I have JKs. My plan was to get a PR44 to replace the Rubicon axle in my Jeep and move my axle (everything still works great) over to her sport. My dilemma begins with what housing do I want to get? I would like to keep common shafts between both our axles for the sake of spares (I'm not really a fan of RCV for reasons I won't get into here). While my factory e-locker still works, I am concerned for the options should it fail and keeping the 30 spline shafts. I would like to just switch to an ARB but I don't see that as an option. Someone please help my get this all straight. I figure if I'm confused someone else likely is as well.

Side note/question: I broke my rear factory locker and replaced it with an ARB RD157. Then I was reading the FAQs on the Dynatrac site and it seems you do not suggest this locker as it will not set up correctly. Is this only an issue with the front? I was able to set my rear up (while it was a PITA) pretty well.
 
I'm interested to hear the answers also. I want to plan for the future but get confused on the different options and people talking about welding raised brackets.
 
I'm interested to hear the answers also. I want to plan for the future but get confused on the different options and people talking about welding raised brackets.

My questions are mostly internal related. The brackets I get and are steering and suspension set-up related.
 
The best thing to do is call Dynatrac or who ever you intend to purchase your housing from. Have them walk you through the internals and that way you get it right from them directly. I know there are a lot of folks on here that know their stuff a lot better than I do on this subject. Just my $.02.
 
The best thing to do is call Dynatrac or who ever you intend to purchase your housing from. Have them walk you through the internals and that way you get it right from them directly. I know there are a lot of folks on here that know their stuff a lot better than I do on this subject. Just my $.02.

I put this in the Dynatrac area for them (or anyone who knows) to respond. As I mentioned in my original post, I feel that if I am confused others may be as well. Getting answers here provides information for others that can be found when searching. (I wasn't able to find clarity when searching.) Dynatrac does a pretty good job of watching posts here. If they don't respond I will call and report back, but I think it's best straight from the horses mouth.
 

Rhin0247

Member
subscribing as I plan to do the same with mine and the lady's jeep in the near future and had a very similar question...
 

ChaosNein

New member
You can purchase a PR44 with an ARB RD117 (30 spline) but it must be built that way or you can purchase a PR44 with an ARB RD147 (35 spline) and it must be built that way as well. If you chose to purchase a PR44 Housing and plan to swap your RUBICON Internals into it, then it is a different PR44 Pumpkin and will then ONLY upgrade to an ARB RD157 (35 spline). As far as it not being set up correctly, well that all depends on who you are having set it up. We do a number of these upgrades and they work perfect! The disclaimer that Dynatrac is giving is because the ARB RD157 WILL NOT work in a Conventional JK PR44 Pumpkin, it is designed to replace a RUBICON Locker in a RUBICON Pumpkin. But if you want to keep your 30 spline axle shafts to be able to have minimal "spares", just have your PR44 built that way.
 
You can purchase a PR44 with an ARB RD117 (30 spline) but it must be built that way or you can purchase a PR44 with an ARB RD147 (35 spline) and it must be built that way as well. If you chose to purchase a PR44 Housing and plan to swap your RUBICON Internals into it, then it is a different PR44 Pumpkin and will then ONLY upgrade to an ARB RD157 (35 spline). As far as it not being set up correctly, well that all depends on who you are having set it up. We do a number of these upgrades and they work perfect! The disclaimer that Dynatrac is giving is because the ARB RD157 WILL NOT work in a Conventional JK PR44 Pumpkin, it is designed to replace a RUBICON Locker in a RUBICON Pumpkin. But if you want to keep your 30 spline axle shafts to be able to have minimal "spares", just have your PR44 built that way.

Thanks Drew! I wondered if you would chime in here :thumb:

I'm sorry for being dense. But are you saying that if I order a PR44 with an ARB RD117 it would use common shafts to the factory Rubicon housing with factory locker? Seems like I'm screwed if/when the factory locker fails then and would have different spares regardless. So, with that said.... would you suggest just building a PR44 for this eventual condition?
 

ChaosNein

New member
Thanks Drew! I wondered if you would chime in here :thumb:

I'm sorry for being dense. But are you saying that if I order a PR44 with an ARB RD117 it would use common shafts to the factory Rubicon housing with factory locker? Seems like I'm screwed if/when the factory locker fails then and would have different spares regardless. So, with that said.... would you suggest just building a PR44 for this eventual condition?

This IS true unless you purchased another Rubicon E-Locker when yours goes out... EXPENSIVE!!!

My personal opinion, I would go with a PR44 Unlimited/Extreme Housing / Pro Steer Ball Joints / ARB 35 Spline Locker / RCV 35 Spline Axle Shafts - now you did mention that you did not like RCVs, so swapping out those with another set of 35 spline axles shafts (NON-RUBICON) and to be honest, I am not 100% sure who else is making 35 spline fronts. I know the G2 Placer Golds were out there and then they were not. I think Nitro is also making them, just have not personally seen them.
 
This IS true unless you purchased another Rubicon E-Locker when yours goes out... EXPENSIVE!!!

My personal opinion, I would go with a PR44 Unlimited/Extreme Housing / Pro Steer Ball Joints / ARB 35 Spline Locker / RCV 35 Spline Axle Shafts - now you did mention that you did not like RCVs, so swapping out those with another set of 35 spline axles shafts (NON-RUBICON) and to be honest, I am not 100% sure who else is making 35 spline fronts. I know the G2 Placer Golds were out there and then they were not. I think Nitro is also making them, just have not personally seen them.

Thank you for another prompt reply!

I am leaning this way. At least front spares are not as critical to keep around. I can always just pull the shaft and plug to tube to get home and figure it out. My problem with RCV is their warranty practices not the product itself.

I have no intention of buying another factory locker should the one I have fail. :crazyeyes:

Thanks again for the help :beer:
 
Drew at OR EVO has answered this very well. The Rubicon electric diff requires unique shaft lengths. No other diff will use those shafts. Therefore I recommend going with our conventional PR44 housing, an ARB, and if you choose not to go with RCV, then Dynatrac will offer 4340, 30spl, front, 1350 joint, US made shafts imminently.

If you are after 35 spline shafts in the front, then I would not do so unless you also upgrade the wheel ends to our Pro Series ends and 1480 shafts. That’s the same as our ProRock60 wheel end. That is a bigger step up in cost, but is the ultimate 44-class front axle. That is what we installed on the Jeep NuKizer, and other custom, low body height builds.

The total low-cost way to go is with a PR44, re-use your Rubicon internals, Rubicon shafts, stock wheel ends, and stock brakes. The big drawback is that any time you need a replacement factory Rubicon diff for your front axle, it is about $1500 last time I looked. They are a good unit, but not anywhere near the durability of an ARB. The latest Eaton 44 E-locker is also another choice if you prefer electric activation.
 
Drew at OR EVO has answered this very well. The Rubicon electric diff requires unique shaft lengths. No other diff will use those shafts. Therefore I recommend going with our conventional PR44 housing, an ARB, and if you choose not to go with RCV, then Dynatrac will offer 4340, 30spl, front, 1350 joint, US made shafts imminently.

If you are after 35 spline shafts in the front, then I would not do so unless you also upgrade the wheel ends to our Pro Series ends and 1480 shafts. That’s the same as our ProRock60 wheel end. That is a bigger step up in cost, but is the ultimate 44-class front axle. That is what we installed on the Jeep NuKizer, and other custom, low body height builds.

The total low-cost way to go is with a PR44, re-use your Rubicon internals, Rubicon shafts, stock wheel ends, and stock brakes. The big drawback is that any time you need a replacement factory Rubicon diff for your front axle, it is about $1500 last time I looked. They are a good unit, but not anywhere near the durability of an ARB. The latest Eaton 44 E-locker is also another choice if you prefer electric activation.

Thanks for the Reply!

As I mentioned I already switched the rear to an ARB. (I broke the coil connector when doing my gear swap :doh: ), so going ARB in the front is what I prefer. I am not a fan of the Eaton E-Lockers. It is what is currently in my wife's Jeep and I don't like how it takes 180 degrees of slip to lock with every change in direction. Plus the little grommet is sub-par at sealing gear oil and the little pins on the connector corrode very easily. (I suspect you already know all that but shared for the sake of other readers.)

I had considered the 44/60 hybid, but was worried this moved the weakness to the R&P. What are your thoughts on this? Also, turning radius is very important to me and it is my understanding I will loose some with the 60 outers.
 
Last edited:

Texas Nick

Caught the Bug
man, had no idea of all the different choices and combinations there were for a pr44 [emoji50]
But did have a couple questions answered for myself as well. :thumb:
 

iRonin

Member
fwiw if you end up going through Northridge they too have some knowledgeable folks who can help you configure/build the entire axle so it ships ready to swap in. I worked with Sean to get mine built (Unlimited/ARB/RCV/Synergy/bracket preweld) and the only thing I had to do was add oil, dial in the caster, and break it in.:beer:
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
fwiw if you end up going through Northridge they too have some knowledgeable folks who can help you configure/build the entire axle so it ships ready to swap in. I worked with Sean to get mine built (Unlimited/ARB/RCV/Synergy/bracket preweld) and the only thing I had to do was add oil, dial in the caster, and break it in.:beer:

I personally wouldn't order from northridge when it comes to a big piece of equipment like an axle. Who knows who is building your axle on a given day. Your backlash might be set differently compared to the next guy. I would order through either dynatrac directly or ORE who sends the order over to dynatrac to build.
 
I personally wouldn't order from northridge when it comes to a big piece of equipment like an axle. Who knows who is building your axle on a given day. Your backlash might be set differently compared to the next guy. I would order through either dynatrac directly or ORE who sends the order over to dynatrac to build.

Couple Facts here:

We have built more pro rock 44's than any other retailer
We have a very strict QA process that each housing goes through prior to shipping
Dynatrac has very strict guidelines as well on who they allow to setup there axles and we are one of them.
Backlash is a precise measurement that doesn't just get set differently based on the person who builds the axle.
We have two guys that do nothing but build pro rock 44' and 60's in house in Washington and each one of these gets multiple Quality checks before it leaves.


America is a great country and you get to choose what you do with your money and people are entitled to an opinion.

David
 
I have purchased many parts from Northridge and they have ALWAYS backed their work and products well beyond my expectations. As mentioned... Backlash isn't something that can just be set "differently". It is either in tolerance or out. Anyone with experience in building axles knows this. Personally I trust all of the vendor that have replied to my thread to build me a quality axle.

I think it's best to try to keep the facts seperated from the opinion here.
 
Top Bottom