Front drive shaft tear
- Thread starter Reaper04
- Start date
Looking at a J.E Reel one, I have read their 1310 isn't much stronger than stock, so looking at a 1350, has anyone ran this on a D30? I will eventually be running a prorock 44, but not until i get back to the states, shipping is too crazy for me out here in Germany APO, and I will be running 35's eventually, so if the 1350 works fine, I will just pull the trigger right the first time!!! Also might just be replacing the rear shaft too since it's at it's limit(pic below). I won't be wheeling much this winter here so I might do the rear first with a 1350 and do the upper Control arms, any advice on that?
I haven't seen it at full drop. I did see boot kits for the drive shaft, but I was considering upgrading my drive shafts next anyway, I was just checking over everything before winter an noticed the boot was torn. After looking I might just look at getting some Adams 1310 for the front and rear, have seen some good stuff on them!!!
noroad
New member
I have them on both rigs and they have been great.
Did you happen to order them off of their website? They ask for measurements from yoke to yoke, but on sites like northridge they don't.
noroad
New member
I called adams and the guy walked me though what he wanted measured and then had them shipped out the next day. I also order everything from Northridge over the phone.
Awesome thanks for all the help Bud!
Teraflex offers a high angle cv joint to replace the factory one. I may be inviting a flame but If we are talking just about factory cv's and not exhaust clearance or other driveshaft interference I would go this route. About $150.00 from Northridge. My reasoning is, we all believe RCV shafts with a Rzeppa cv is superior to a u-joint on axles and yet we want to remove one that already exists on a driveshaft. just my 2 cents.
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
Do we all believe that? I don't.
dannymalkin
New member
Have you used it on your rig? I haven't seen any real world experience from anyone yet...
Edit: that's not even the boot the OP ripped
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FYI..looks like you can now buy a replacement slip-joint boot:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52300_1102_07.htm
Not sure if you want to go that route or not since it will probably just rip again down the road. Just thought I would share the info.
Brian
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52300_1102_07.htm
Not sure if you want to go that route or not since it will probably just rip again down the road. Just thought I would share the info.
Brian
Potatohead
New member
I'm confused
Do you feel the TF joint is redundant? The factory joint does not allow enough angle if you have a lot of droop, the boot tears pretty quickly. The TF joint solves that.
They also have a driveshaft coming in month or two which will feature the same joint. It was at SEMA this year.
WJCO
Meme King
I'm confused
Do you feel the TF joint is redundant? The factory joint does not allow enough angle if you have a lot of droop, the boot tears pretty quickly. The TF joint solves that.
They also have a driveshaft coming in month or two which will feature the same joint. It was at SEMA this year.
I'm sure they do, but a lot of us have had great luck eliminating the repezza joint all together and going with ujoints which seem to hold up better.
MR.Ty
Token East Coast Guy
Welcome to WAL! :standing wave: