78-79 Ford Kingpin Conversion help

jkodak

New member
I have been looking for answers to get an idea of the cost, and knowledge of parts, to build a Front axle.
i have the option to buy a 79 ford Kingpin front axle. I've been trying to find a post of parts i will need to convert it as inexpensively as possible and to mount to my 07 JkuR. I would like to keep the lockers Electric instead of Air. (mainly because of the cost) can anyone that has done this upgrade give me an idea of the cost of making this happen? I want to completely rebuild the axle and have my abs and speedo still work.
 

cmireles

Member
I have been looking for answers to get an idea of the cost, and knowledge of parts, to build a Front axle.
i have the option to buy a 79 ford Kingpin front axle. I've been trying to find a post of parts i will need to convert it as inexpensively as possible and to mount to my 07 JkuR. I would like to keep the lockers Electric instead of Air. (mainly because of the cost) can anyone that has done this upgrade give me an idea of the cost of making this happen? I want to completely rebuild the axle and have my abs and speedo still work.

Be prepared to shell out quite a bit of money. New gears, unit bearings that accept factory wheel speed sensors, shafts, locker, steering components, replacing wear items that are in bad shape. Plus an axle swap kit. Not sure about drive shafts. Unless you're trying to run 40's or bigger, a prorock 44 housing and swap over your internals might be a good option for you.
 

jkodak

New member
I hit a rut and cracked my Dana 44 housing in half. I will be contacting my insurance company. If they cut me a check for the repairs, I will be using that for the purchase of upgraded parts. I'm hoping to be able to do the front and get a rear 14 bolt for under $5000 (excluding new tires and rims)
 

MR.Ty

Token East Coast Guy
I hit a rut and cracked my Dana 44 housing in half. I will be contacting my insurance company. If they cut me a check for the repairs, I will be using that for the purchase of upgraded parts. I'm hoping to be able to do the front and get a rear 14 bolt for under $5000 (excluding new tires and rims)

You cant put your Rubicon locker into bigger housing. You will have to get lockers that work for that particular axle.
 

jedg

New member
I hit a rut and cracked my Dana 44 housing in half. I will be contacting my insurance company. If they cut me a check for the repairs, I will be using that for the purchase of upgraded parts. I'm hoping to be able to do the front and get a rear 14 bolt for under $5000 (excluding new tires and rims)


Yeah... you won't come in under 5K. You're better off getting a PR44 or if you want to go with D60s then look at Dynatrac if you want completely bullet proof... if you want something at a lower price point, then do Spicer UD60s. I price building D60/Sterling 10.5 and really, without labor, I was already over $7500 (with the axles costing $1200 for the pair) on my estimate... I'll either get Dynatrac or Spicer UD60s.

Unless you have some pretty good fab skills and are willing to deal with the headache of getting the wheel speed sensors right, you're better off with Dynatrac or Spicer.

If you want to stick with electric lockers then go with UD60s...

EDIT - the $7500 is with me doing all the labor but setting the gears
 

jkodak

New member
Wow, I didn't realize it was going to be THAT costly. I figured with gears, locker, knuckles, calipers, rotors and artec truss/ brackets, it would have been a bit less.
 

13_gecko_rubi

Caught the Bug
My buddy installed a kp60/14b in his jk and did so for just over 5k. He did do all the fab work himself except for setting up the kp60, the 14b can be done at home. It isn't an easy chore and you need to have good fab skills and watch out for deals on parts.

Unless you are planning on running 40s and bigger and have good fab skills and friends to help fab you are better off with crate axles.
 

jedg

New member
Wow, I didn't realize it was going to be THAT costly. I figured with gears, locker, knuckles, calipers, rotors and artec truss/ brackets, it would have been a bit less.

Well, I just took a look at the spreadsheet (yeah... I keep a spreadsheet with build info and such for my jeep). So doing the 14bolt may be a bit cheaper as with a 10.5 and keeping the OEM rear control arm configuration you have to use a 2 Door fuel tank. Cutting the stuff specific to the sterling out, then it's down to $6700. But, again, that's me doing all labor but installing the gears.

With any of these junkyard 1-ton swaps, there's a huge amount of work involved as well as fab and patience.
 

jkodak

New member
Thanks for the info. I DO have a couple friends that are more than willing to do the welding and building. And if I can get them done for around 5k, I want to go that route. The crate route would be over $11k.
 

13_gecko_rubi

Caught the Bug
Also the kp60 front moves the diff further inboard than stock and can cause the driveshaft to contact the trans pan. You can make it work but it's really if your trying to get the best for the least amount of money.
 

jedg

New member
Also the kp60 front moves the diff further inboard than stock and can cause the driveshaft to contact the trans pan. You can make it work but it's really if your trying to get the best for the least amount of money.

Yeah, forgot about that.

If you are stuck on doing this, you're better to find a 2005 or newer D60. And a 14bolt with the ribs on the diff... can't remember what year range for that... go to Artec's site and they will tell you what years to use.

Get yourself a portable band saw, a bunch of grinder and cut-off wheels, and lots of time.

EDIT - another advantage to using a 2005+ D60 is that you can use the tone rings that are already on the axle.
 

13_gecko_rubi

Caught the Bug
Yeah, forgot about that.

If you are stuck on doing this, you're better to find a 2005 or newer D60. And a 14bolt with the ribs on the diff... can't remember what year range for that... go to Artec's site and they will tell you what years to use.

Get yourself a portable band saw, a bunch of grinder and cut-off wheels, and lots of time.

EDIT - another advantage to using a 2005+ D60 is that you can use the tone rings that are already on the axle.

The downside to this is that moves the diff more outboard than stock and can limit uptravel. Have another budy with that issue due to those axles lol.

Also has a different lug pattern than the 14b so need dual drilled wheels, new front hubs or run different wheels front and rear.

Plus and minuses to everything.
 
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Sc741

Member
Buy a 1999-2004 front Dana 60 and a 10.5" Matching Sterling rear and you should be around 7K for two nicely build axles.
It can be done cost effectively. It helps if you can do most of it yourself.
My front axle $650. Paid too much. Timing thing.
Rear axle $355. Both in great shape.
It takes research and knowing what your build needs to be.
 

MR.Ty

Token East Coast Guy
Buy a 1999-2004 front Dana 60 and a 10.5" Matching Sterling rear and you should be around 7K for two nicely build axles.
It can be done cost effectively. It helps if you can do most of it yourself.
My front axle $650. Paid too much. Timing thing.
Rear axle $355. Both in great shape.
It takes research and knowing what your build needs to be.

Welcome back! :standing wave:
 

jedg

New member
The downside to this is that moves the diff more outboard than stock and can limit uptravel. Have another budy with that issue due to those axles lol.

Also has a different lug pattern than the 14b so need dual drilled wheels, new front hubs or run different wheels front and rear.

Plus and minuses to everything.


Yep...exactly. I think it's super cool to see someone that's built their own axles like that, but it's not a novice job for sure.
 
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