Which first: Drivetrain or Lift?

ScoobyCarolanNC

Active Member
I've got a 2010 Sahara with the D30 & 3.21s and I'd like to go to 35s on 4.88s. I'm not a rock crawler, I just want a fully capable Jeep for my DD, various adventures, & a trip to Uwarrhie or something every now & then.

So I have to build my rig in 2 phases. 1) rebuilt D44 front, driveshafts, regear to 4.88s. 2) 3.5" Lift & 35s. I'm figuring $3-4K a phase. They might be 8 months apart based on my budget.

Should I lift first, run on 3.21s, & potentially suffer or run 32s on 4.88s until I'm ready. The second option is just no fun & if something comes up it could be a year before I can afford the second phase.

Also I know a lot of members will say get a prorock, but being honest it's overkill for my use. I can spread that money over a few things on the drivetrain that I think will suit my needs just fine.

Whattya think?
 

Ddays

Hooked
I've got a 2010 Sahara with the D30 & 3.21s and I'd like to go to 35s on 4.88s. I'm not a rock crawler, I just want a fully capable Jeep for my DD, various adventures, & a trip to Uwarrhie or something every now & then.

So I have to build my rig in 2 phases. 1) rebuilt D44 front, driveshafts, regear to 4.88s. 2) 3.5" Lift & 35s. I'm figuring $3-4K a phase. They might be 8 months apart based on my budget.

Should I lift first, run on 3.21s, & potentially suffer or run 32s on 4.88s until I'm ready. The second option is just no fun & if something comes up it could be a year before I can afford the second phase.

Also I know a lot of members will say get a prorock, but being honest it's overkill for my use. I can spread that money over a few things on the drivetrain that I think will suit my needs just fine.

Whattya think?

Regear & 35's - since you're already wanting 35's you won't be happy until you get them. Trim factory fenders & run a budget boost - you don't need 3.5" for 35's. Throw a budget boost on it & get on down(up?) to Uwarrhie!
 

Speeddmn

New member
Auto or manual?

Already sound advice, just to add to it, the 3.8 with an auto trans, 35's/4.88 will be sluggish on the highway. Go up to 5.13 (wont cost more) and bring the rpms into a more acceptable area.

Again, chop the fenders, get your 35's (review the new tire database on here) maybe 305/??r17 might fit the budget better or even be taller depending on tire manufacture. Budget boost with new longer shocks, then regear and you are good to go. Gear are not that hard, it's lots of math/trial and error on shims, find a good friend with the tools and get it done.
 

geberhard

Douchebag
I have run 35's on my old JK without issues (a bit of power loss) and without a lift on stock gears. I was able to do some wheeling, but tires rubbed on the fenders when the Jeep flexed. I would go with trimming the stock flares, and a coil spacer and shock extension kit since you are not rockcrawling, and you will keep pretty close to stock suspension handling. That will not break the bank and will allow to save for a future lift. I would not re-gear right away; see how the Jeep handles and if you are willing to live with it. I honestly would not put money on the D30. In the meantime keep an eye out for a pair of Rubi axles (I have seem them as low as $2500-3000 and up locally in the past).

Also save yorself form adding weight to the rig, bumeprs, winch, or other items you wil not need if you do not take the rig crawling. A stock rubi rocker\slider will do the trick to protect the body and it is pretty light.

Good luck!

Gui
 

Ctimrun

Member
Lift and tires first. If/when you can't stand the gearing or start breaking stuff then do the gears and replace parts when the time comes. I wouldn't drop money into the drivetrain until it's necessary.
 
I say c gussets, lift snd tires. Doesnt sound like itll be wheeled much anyway. You wont be happy until your jeep fits the bill visually. Starting out sinking thousands in to a jeep that looks the same afterward will be disheartening lol.
 

ScoobyCarolanNC

Active Member
Thanks y'all.

Lift and tires 1st.... Drive train later...
If you have not already think about gussets for your C's.

Rebuilt 44 I'm looking at has them. It's a shop who builds them as a kit.

Lift and tires first. If/when you can't stand the gearing or start breaking stuff then do the gears and replace parts when the time comes. I wouldn't drop money into the drivetrain until it's necessary.

3 kids. Can't be a vehicle down. If I had 3.73s the feeling I got from others was it might be kinda tolerable, but 3.21s will suck.

I say c gussets, lift snd tires. Doesnt sound like itll be wheeled much anyway. You wont be happy until your jeep fits the bill visually. Starting out sinking thousands in to a jeep that looks the same afterward will be disheartening lol.

Yup. Won't be easy to explain to the wife. "No babe, it's a 1310 & those ball joints? Totally rebuildable."
 
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Thanks y'all.



Rebuilt 44 I'm looking at has them. It's a shop who builds them as a kit.



3 kids. Can't be a vehicle down. If I had 3.73s the feeling I got from others was it might be kinda tolerable, but 3.21s will suck.



Yup. Won't be easy to explain to the wife. "No babe, it's a 1310 & those ball joints? Totally rebuildable."

For what its worth, im still running 3.21s. Its not optimal, but it IS doable. Especially w the 3.6L. Ive been doing it for a year.
 

ScoobyCarolanNC

Active Member
I've heard the 3.8 is rougher. I was actually playing with the idea of trying to use the Procal to fake it. Like if I changed the transfer case gear ratio & the diff gear ratio & the tire size I could alter the magic equation in the ECU and get it to shift at the right places
 
I've heard the 3.8 is rougher. I was actually playing with the idea of trying to use the Procal to fake it. Like if I changed the transfer case gear ratio & the diff gear ratio & the tire size I could alter the magic equation in the ECU and get it to shift at the right places
I totally missed that yours was a 3.8. That changes my opinion. Yea thatll be rough id say. Theres about an 85hp difference.
 

Fireball

New member
I'm running a procal on stock gears on the 3.8 auto and 35's. It's not as noticeable as regearing but it does what it's worth for the money. I'm looking into C's and regearing myself.
 

S_wall98

New member
Last week I put some 1 3/4" daystar spacers and 35" (315 70 17) cooper stt pros on my 2010 jkur. It's an auto with 4.10s.
After researching on all the forums I was worried about going to 35s because of the power loss and getting regear costs. This wasn't at all the case and is where you need real world experience. I lost a couple mpg but nothing to have me think about regearing. I don't say that to slam people that push regearing either. It's your rig and everyone drives them differently. If you're not adding a bunch of armor and depending on your driving style, daily commute, etc 4.88 might be plenty.
I can't imagine being happy with 3.21s but I'd takes a couple of test drives in regeared rigs (I know that's easier said than done) before going with something.
A superchips flashpaq is well worth it if you can find a deal especially.
 

skooli

New member
I've been running 35's and a 4" lift for a year. The only time I notice power loss is around 80 mph. I've even road tripped it cross country twice, and it did awesome on highway mountain passes. It does great off road too. Haven't had to trim anything either.
 

Brute

Hooked
Regear & 35's - since you're already wanting 35's you won't be happy until you get them. Trim factory fenders & run a budget boost - you don't need 3.5" for 35's. Throw a budget boost on it & get on down(up?) to Uwarrhie!

I'm in agreement here...you can get 35's on without much lift at all...and re-gearing to 4.88 will also work if you decide to go 37's down the road (after a lift)...
 
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