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Thread: Ball Joints U-Joints Wheel Bearings & Axles

  1. #1
    Hooked
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    Ball Joints U-Joints Wheel Bearings & Axles

    This week I'm doing the project, and yesterday took off most of the parts. I still need to remove the ball joints and u-joints today.

    I was surprised to find that the seal on the axle didn't meet the body and the axles are that rusted.

    When I put them back in, is there a trick to seating these seals again to prevent water from entering that axle cavity?








  2. #2
    Guy with a Red 2-Door cozdude's Avatar
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    No there isn't. They are kind of pointless anyway cause they don't do a good job of keeping stuff out as it is
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  3. #3
    Meme King WJCO's Avatar
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    It's not abnormal for that boot/seal to not be completely flush. Don't concern yourself with it. If water gets in there, it comes right out. You want water to be able to exit the tubes if it does get in there near the tube ends. Axle being rusty like that is pretty normal too.

    Your real axle oil seals are inside the tubes right where they meet the pumpkin.
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  4. #4
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    Thanks, I couldn't see where it really affected the operation of it all, but if there's something I need to re grease etc this is the time to get to it.

    Thx for the quick replies!

    Ok back to work . . .

  5. #5
    Hooked
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    So I got both ball joints off one side, and the Synergy upper and lower back on and straight using a shim. But the other side, holy freakin . . . I can't get it, I've worn myself out. I even ejected the inner shaft hoping that might help, but it's a no go. I have a 1\2 bar about 30 inches long and even with a little cheater extension, I've gone as far as I have the strength to go, I can't make a smidgen of a turn more.

    Maybe being under pressure over time will help it budge, but at this point I'm dead in the water with the project.

  6. #6
    Guy with a Red 2-Door cozdude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UNLIMITED_FUN View Post
    So I got both ball joints off one side, and the Synergy upper and lower back on and straight using a shim. But the other side, holy freakin . . . I can't get it, I've worn myself out. I even ejected the inner shaft hoping that might help, but it's a no go. I have a 1\2 bar about 30 inches long and even with a little cheater extension, I've gone as far as I have the strength to go, I can't make a smidgen of a turn more.

    Maybe being under pressure over time will help it budge, but at this point I'm dead in the water with the project.
    Apply some heat if you can't get the old ones out
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    October 16, 2013, wednesday early evening, east of the pacific ocean, selectee for truly random and boring Parking lot photo of the moment grand platinum prize winner!

    2011 JK
    EVO Bolt-on Coilovers, EVO 1/4 pounder w/ stinger, 37" Cooper STT Pros, PR44, and some EVO stuff

    Awaiting install-
    On Order-
    Want list- Evo carrier and skins, PSC hydro assis

    jlwrangler.com

  7. #7
    Caught the Bug
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    yep.. heat then repeat
    Also.. are you sure you have setup the press the right way and not just jamming it in further? (just checking)

  8. #8
    Hooked Drunic's Avatar
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    I've had one take us 2 hrs alone. Heat repeat works wonders as mentioned, bang on the outer with a hammer helped too. We bent the press from harbor freight doing it too.

  9. #9
    The Original Smartass piginajeep's Avatar
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    Smack the C with a mallet when there's pressure on it. The shock will sometime make them pop.

    I just changed mine, one side took 2 hours (my clamp was bent).

    Rented a good one, the other side was about an hour. Minus finding tools.
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  10. #10
    Hooked
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    Thx guys, you're right I just needed the torch and BFH, it's done now.

    4 pressed out, 3 pressed in . . . I'm running out of gas for the day.

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