Rear ProRock 60 question

This is going to sound like a newbie question I'm sure. I just put in a PR44 and RCV's in the front, and I'm already drooling about putting in a PR60 in the rear. I have 4.88 gears and G2 35-spline chromo axle shafts in my rear stock D44. If I was go PR60 in the rear, can I just get the housing and still use my G2 shafts and current ARB locker set-up?
 

highoctane

Caught the Bug
One is a D44 and the other is a dana 60. Buying ANY dana 60 would require you to scrap everything from the D44. None of it would transfer over to a dana 60.
 
One is a D44 and the other is a dana 60. Buying ANY dana 60 would require you to scrap everything from the D44. None of it would transfer over to a dana 60.

thanks man, still learning everyday. guess i'll ride the 44 rear for as long as i can before upgrading. saw in your sig you're running a 60 up front and 80 in rear...that's beast mode!
 

highoctane

Caught the Bug
thanks man, still learning everyday. guess i'll ride the 44 rear for as long as i can before upgrading. saw in your sig you're running a 60 up front and 80 in rear...that's beast mode!

We all start somewhere. That's the great place about Wayalife. All the knowledge you need is right here.
 

Grubbicon

New member
thanks man, still learning everyday. guess i'll ride the 44 rear for as long as i can before upgrading. saw in your sig you're running a 60 up front and 80 in rear...that's beast mode!

Looks like you are only running 35s. If this is the case you really have no need for the 60. Id be willing to bet being on 35s you will never brake the 44.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Looks like you are only running 35s. If this is the case you really have no need for the 60. Id be willing to bet being on 35s you will never brake the 44.

Totally agree. With just 35's, there's no need for anything other than the factory rear 44.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Thanks Eddie! Full float is the way I'm leaning!

A semi-float axle has to move AND hold up your Jeep. With a full float, your axle shafts only need to move your Jeep. Also, if you break a shaft with a full float, all you need to do is pull the shaft. With a semi-float, you're kind of dead in the water unless you have a spare. Every which way you look at it, full-float or even better, the all new XD60 is what you really want if you can afford it.
 
Thanks guys. I do plan on going to 37 nitto trail grapps down the road. Which is why I was thinking 60 in rear. How concerned should I be wheeling 37s on a 44 rear with chromply shafts? I'll also have long arms and je reel front and rear 1350s in December of that does anything to the equation.
 

Grubbicon

New member
Thanks guys. I do plan on going to 37 nitto trail grapps down the road. Which is why I was thinking 60 in rear. How concerned should I be wheeling 37s on a 44 rear with chromply shafts? I'll also have long arms and je reel front and rear 1350s in December of that does anything to the equation.

A d44 will hold up to a 37 with most peoples driving without issues. Unless your one to really beat your rig and use a heavy foot you will be fine.
 

Coop

Caught the Bug
A semi-float axle has to move AND hold up your Jeep. With a full float, your axle shafts only need to move your Jeep. Also, if you break a shaft with a full float, all you need to do is pull the shaft. With a semi-float, you're kind of dead in the water unless you have a spare. Every which way you look at it, full-float or even better, the all new XD60 is what you really want if you can afford it.
Thanks again. Who are the outfits you recommend working with for purchase that don't mind answering questions?
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Thanks guys. I do plan on going to 37 nitto trail grapps down the road. Which is why I was thinking 60 in rear. How concerned should I be wheeling 37s on a 44 rear with chromply shafts? I'll also have long arms and je reel front and rear 1350s in December of that does anything to the equation.

Depends on where you live and how hard you actually wheel. The rear 44 itself isn't such a bad axle and it's even better if it's a Sport or Sahara axle being that the shafts are the same length on both sides and you can upgrade them to 35 splines with a ARB. The problem with it is that it's still a semi-float setup and if you play hard enough, you WILL bend the flanges. I should note, this is the case with ANY semi-float shaft and Chromoly ones won't make a difference. The case for going PR60 is that you'll be working with a BIGGER and BEEFIER set of shafts. Of course, if you can run a full-float setup, that would be your best bet.

With all that being said, MOST people can and do get by with the factory 44 rear axle and without any issues.
 
Good to know. I wheel some challenging stuff but I don't beat on it too hard. The Rubicon trail is probably the hardest I'd ever drive it in the future. But who knows haha
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Thanks again. Who are the outfits you recommend working with for purchase that don't mind answering questions?

Personally, I would talk to Dynatrac directly as they will be the most informed. Also, when you get an axle from them, you are getting it "BUILT" by their highly trained and skilled technicians. Yes, it will cost a bit more but at least it won't be built by a joe blow mechanic at a vendor shop that just happens to know how to install parts.
 
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