Confused When Adjustable Track Bars should be used

So, I had my mind made up, well at least I thought I did.

I placed an order for the following:
Currie Adjustable Control Arms- All 8
4” Plush Rides Front and rear
EVO Drag Link Flip Kit
EVO Rear Trac bar relocation bracket
Rockstar Skids
EVO HD Rear Sway Bar Link
JKS Brake relocation brackets
Rancho 9000 shocks
EVO front shock relocation brackets

Well, after the order was placed, I got a call saying the order did not go through because the purchase was over my daily limit for the debit card. So I after speaking with the supplier I reordered just the Currie adjustable arms. Then work got really busy and I had not time to complete the order on the other items.

Over the weekend I sat and read reviews, etc and confirmed my plan. I raised more questions and started to get concerned with my plan. I would like to get some help with the following.

My Jeep is a heavier 4 door. I also have 3 kids. I plan on running 35’s on KMC Machette’s. After a few years and if we are wheeling a lot, I might go to 37’s. It’s been suggested I go with the 4” EVO and that is what I was leaning towards.
After the research, I had questions I can’t seem to find the answer to.

Is 4” to high if I am going to stick with 35’s on a heavy rig?

I am planning on the draglink flip kit. And the front track bar relocation kit. Is it a good idea to also use an adjustable track bar with 4” of lift?

I am also doing the rear track bar relocation. With a 4” lift, is it a good idea to run an adjustable rear track bar?

What amount of lift constitutes a need for an adjustable track bars?

I spoke to another supplier and they suggested even with a front track bar relocation kit, they recommended using an adjustable front track bar. They sell them, so I’m not sure if I’m getting sold. I did tell them, I want to maintain the stock geometry as much as reasonably possible. And that I don’t mind the stock ride. I don’t want anything harsher and wouldn’t mind it softer.

I am comparing the above kit I put together to a 3.5” JKS kit. I believe both are great kits, so I don’t want to start a debate of which is better.

I am just trying to understand the suspension setup, and what should be done with 4” or 3.5” of lift. The more I understand the fewer mistakes I will make.

Please help me understand the need for adjustable track bars. Your help is appreciated.

I don't really know if ever unless you broke a stock one... a bracket that properly places it would be the most efficient.

The bracket is the better option as it corrects the geometry whereas the adjustable bar only centres the axle. You really only need to look at an adjustable bar on really low lifts or if you have rubbing on one side only when flexed.

tgoss said:

I don't really know if ever unless you broke a stock one... a bracket that properly places it would be the most efficient.

Click to expand...

2nd.gunman said:

The bracket is the better option as it corrects the geometry whereas the adjustable bar only centres the axle. You really only need to look at an adjustable bar on really low lifts or if you have rubbing on one side only when flexed.

Click to expand...

I am being told that with a 4" lift, the bracket can only do so much adjustment and you would need Both a bracket and adjustable bar to get it back to center like it came stock.


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Mtb275 said:

I am being told that with a 4" lift, the bracket can only do so much adjustment and you would need Both a bracket and adjustable bar to get it back to center like it came stock.


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Click to expand...

It's more important that you keep the drag link and track bar parallel more than anything. An adjustable track bar may center your axle, but if it's not parallel with the drag link, you will have major bump steer and shitty handling. Especially with steep angles from a 4 inch lift.

Mtb275 said:

I am being told that with a 4" lift, the bracket can only do so much adjustment and you would need Both a bracket and adjustable bar to get it back to center like it came stock.


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Click to expand...

It really depends on the bracket used. The rear track bar should be parallel to the ground and front should be parallel with the drag link. If the brackets used achieve this then the axles should already be centred or close to it

I run a 3" lift and run both the relocation bracket and adjustable track bar but only because I didn't know any better. I have no issues and did make some adjustments to it to center the axle but never did install the stock to see if there was any issues. If I had to do it again I'd start with the relocation bracket (axle side) and if my axle was significantly off center running the stock track bar I'd get an adjustable. Mainly because the OCD in me would never let me leave it off..haha.

2nd.gunman said:

It really depends on the bracket used. The rear track bar should be parallel to the ground and front should be parallel with the drag link. If the brackets used achieve this then the axles should already be centred or close to it

Click to expand...

I was leaning towards EVO. So let's assume EVO relocation and 4" plush rides.

My other option is JKS.

jesse3638 said:

I run a 3" lift and run both the relocation bracket and adjustable track bar but only because I didn't know any better. I have no issues and did make some adjustments to it to center the axle but never did install the stock to see if there was any issues. If I had to do it again I'd start with the relocation bracket (axle side) and if my axle was significantly off center running the stock track bar I'd get an adjustable. Mainly because the OCD in me would never let me leave it off..haha.

Click to expand...

I fully understand your OCD, that's where I'm at. If I know it will need some adjustment, I might as well buy it as part of a kit. If the adjustable track bar is needed, I would probably go JKS.



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I ordered my lift and adjustable track bar before being educated, but I have 0 complaints. Now I might be the exception to the rule but I'm running 3.5" lift with adjustable track bars, no relocation brackets, and no drag link flip yet. In fact I have been afraid to pull the trigger on the drag link flip because now I'm concerned that it will cause bump steer since I have none as I sit. My jeep handles beautifully in my opinion ( based on other jeeps I have owned TJ and YJ.) I know that's comparing apples to oranges, but I never new a lifted jeep could run so smooth at high speeds and preform so well off road. JKs are truly a rarity in that regard.


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QuicksilverJK said:

I ordered my lift and adjustable track bar before being educated, but I have 0 complaints. Now I might be the exception to the rule but I'm running 3.5" lift with adjustable track bars, no relocation brackets, and no drag link flip yet. In fact I have been afraid to pull the trigger on the drag link flip because now I'm concerned that it will cause bump steer since I have none as I sit. My jeep handles beautifully in my opinion ( based on other jeeps I have owned TJ and YJ.) I know that's comparing apples to oranges, but I never new a lifted jeep could run so smooth at high speeds and preform so well off road. JKs are truly a rarity in that regard.


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Click to expand...

So what would you do know that you are educated?


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If you already have and adj front track bar and want to do the bracket and flip kit, Can you still use it but adjust it back to stock length?? If so wouldn't you end up with both proper geometry and a centered axle??

Tony

Mtb275 said:

So what would you do know that you are educated?


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Click to expand...

Well I was basically saying before I heard all these "facts"
I looked at it as using the factory mounting points left less points for possible problems. I had a track bar relocation on a TJ that gave me problems for so long I finally just welded the thing to the axle housing.

Ultimately I see no reason to change my setup as I have zero issues with it (so far)


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TonyViv said:

If you already have and adj front track bar and want to do the bracket and flip kit, Can you still use it but adjust it back to stock length?? If so wouldn't you end up with both proper geometry and a centered axle??

Tony

Click to expand...

Yes I could if I wanted to do the relocation bracket and drag link flip. It would accomplish the same thing. As of right now I have no bump steer and no performance issues so I don't see a reason to spend extra money on it.


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TonyViv said:

If you already have and adj front track bar and want to do the bracket and flip kit, Can you still use it but adjust it back to stock length?? If so wouldn't you end up with both proper geometry and a centered axle??

Tony

Click to expand...

I believe most adjustable track bars are longer than stock so even adjusted to their shortest position it will be longer than stock. I could be wrong though.

mudmobeeler said:

I believe most adjustable track bars are longer than stock so even adjusted to their shortest position it will be longer than stock. I could be wrong though.

Click to expand...

You are not wrong. The shortest length on most adjustable track bars is longer than stock and that will be a problem if you're running a relocation bracket.

From my understanding when you get into the higher lifts, like I have, I have a 6.5 inch, your front axle moves backwards and towards the drivers side. The rear axle moves forwards and towards the passenger side. Adding in the adjustable track bars puts your axles back at being centered while the control arms push the axles forward up front and backwards in the rear to put your axles back up under the jeep where they are supposed to be. If you have a larger lift and only do adjustable track bars or only adjustable CA's you won't completely correct the issue. In a higher lift you would need to do both to bring your axles back as close to the stock position as possible. At least this is how it was explained to me.

14Kyle74 said:

From my understanding when you get into the higher lifts, like I have, I have a 6.5 inch, your front axle moves backwards and towards the drivers side. The rear axle moves forwards and towards the passenger side. Adding in the adjustable track bars puts your axles back at being centered while the control arms push the axles forward up front and backwards in the rear to put your axles back up under the jeep where they are supposed to be. If you have a larger lift and only do adjustable track bars or only adjustable CA's you won't completely correct the issue. In a higher lift you would need to do both to bring your axles back as close to the stock position as possible. At least this is how it was explained to me.

Click to expand...

At 6.5" of lift, you really should be running long arms and track bar relocation brackets as your suspension geometry will be crazy off with stock mounting points.

As far as side to side axle shift goes, this is a totally normal condition with any 4-link + track bar setup as your track bar is mounted to the frame on one side and the axle on the other. Lift your Jeep and the axle will shift to the direction of where the track bar is mounted on the frame. Same is true as it's lowered as in, if you load up your Jeep with people and or a ton of gear. The sag in your suspension from the load will cause your axle to shift the other way. In other words, your axle will never sit perfectly centered and really, it's not that big of a deal. Well, that is, unless the shift is causing rubbing issues.

wayoflife said:

You are not wrong. The shortest length on most adjustable track bars is longer than stock and that will be a problem if you're running a relocation bracket.

Click to expand...

OK, So, the relocation bracket compensates enough and gets the suspension back to "stock" on 4" plush rides?

Mtb275 said:

OK, So, the relocation bracket compensates enough and gets the suspension back to "stock" on 4" plush rides?

Click to expand...

Yes. I should note that I prefer running factory track bars and they are what I still run on both my JK's.

wayoflife said:

Yes. I should note that I prefer running factory track bars and they are what I still run on both my JK's.

Click to expand...

Thank you.

And any input on 4" or 3" plush rides? 2016 JKUR. Heavy rig. On 35's for a few years and then might bump to 37's.

I don't mind trimming fenders if 3" will be a better lift for me.


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