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Thread: Swapping rear axle housing

  1. #1
    Knows a Thing or Two Devallee's Avatar
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    Swapping rear axle housing

    Is there more to it other than just jacking the body up and unbolting the 4 control arm bolts, shocks, track bar and driveshaft and dropping the axle? Minus all the little stuff of course like brakes and whatnot. Best quote I got is $400 to unbolt the rear housing and swapping in a completely bolt-in ready housing and I'm really not sure if it's worth it or not. I've changed my springs and shocks in the past so I've done everything listed above before other than the control arm bolts. Am I missing something?

  2. #2
    Hooked jkrichard's Avatar
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    Looks like about it, sway bar is the only thing to add but all of those things are easy enough. If the guts are already in the new axle I'd save myself a few hundred bucks and get a case of beer, maybe a friend too for the heavy bits.

    That said, I don't let anyone touch my jeep... unless it is one mechanic that now lives too far away to go to.

  3. #3
    Been Around the Block Heavyhaul07's Avatar
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    It's really not to hard to do. You basically have the jest of it. Just take your time. You'll have a vent tube parking brake cables brake line. Grab a case of your favorite beverage and go to town. Just remember to bleed the rear brakes and tighten everything up when done.


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  4. #4
    Knows a Thing or Two aermotor's Avatar
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    The rear is a lot easier to do than the front at least. Plan to spend 3-6 hours (or more) doing it though. $400 isn't a lot really if you don't want the headache (but I wouldn't pay it). Grab a friend and do it in an afternoon. It's as straight forward as you describe, it's just cumbersome at times.
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  5. #5
    Guy with a Red 2-Door cozdude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devallee View Post
    Is there more to it other than just jacking the body up and unbolting the 4 control arm bolts, shocks, track bar and driveshaft and dropping the axle? Minus all the little stuff of course like brakes and whatnot. Best quote I got is $400 to unbolt the rear housing and swapping in a completely bolt-in ready housing and I'm really not sure if it's worth it or not. I've changed my springs and shocks in the past so I've done everything listed above before other than the control arm bolts. Am I missing something?
    Nope that's it and it's pretty simple.
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  6. #6
    Hooked dunstan74's Avatar
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    Yeah id save your $400 and fo the swap yourself that money saved on labor can go towards more important things...like beer and jeep parts.

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  7. #7
    Administrator wayoflife's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devallee View Post
    Is there more to it other than just jacking the body up and unbolting the 4 control arm bolts, shocks, track bar and driveshaft and dropping the axle? Minus all the little stuff of course like brakes and whatnot. Best quote I got is $400 to unbolt the rear housing and swapping in a completely bolt-in ready housing and I'm really not sure if it's worth it or not. I've changed my springs and shocks in the past so I've done everything listed above before other than the control arm bolts. Am I missing something?
    Honestly, I would do yourself a favor and do the work yourself. As others have stated, it really is easy to do and unless you're replacing your brake calipers, there's no bleeding you need to do or anything. The hardest part of the job is would be getting the e-brake hooks off and even that's easy with a pair of vice grips.

  8. #8
    Knows a Thing or Two dchew's Avatar
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    If you are on cement, borrowing a pallet jack really helps because you can position it, raise an lower it so much easier when fitting it into place. Just beats wrestling with jack stands. Also a strap looped over a cross member to lift the pinion flange. The housing loves to roll at the most inappropriate times. Other than that I think it is one of most straightforward tasks you can do and you learn a lot.


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  9. #9
    Administrator wayoflife's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dchew View Post
    If you are on cement, borrowing a pallet jack really helps because you can position it, raise an lower it so much easier when fitting it into place. Just beats wrestling with jack stands. Also a strap looped over a cross member to lift the pinion flange. The housing loves to roll at the most inappropriate times. Other than that I think it is one of most straightforward tasks you can do and you learn a lot.
    No need for a pallet jack. I've done it with a pair of jack stands to hold up the Jeep at the frame rails and 2 floor jacks - one to hold the axle at the pumpkin and one to hold the pinion. The nice thing about doing it this way is that you can raise and lower your pinion as needed to help free up your control arm bolts. Of course, an extra pair of hands is always helpful especially when it comes time to roll out the old axle and roll in the new

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