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Thread: Hauling my Jeep

  1. #21
    Been Around the Block Tumbleweed's Avatar
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    I had a SureTrac but sold it since I got rid of the ATVs. Very nice trailer & they will work with you if you want any upgrades, i.e. axles, suspension, etc.
    '11 JK Silver 2 Door-ACE bumpers-37" Toyo Open Country MTs-Smittybilt sliders-Warn 10K Zeon Winch-3" lift front -4.5" JKU lift rear-Fox shocks-AEV heat reduction hood-ProRock 44-ARB lockers-5.13 gears-RubiCrawler-RCV Axles-Poison Spyder Crusher Flares-EVO Rock Skins-M.O.R.E. Battery Tray-Odyssey dual batteries-ProGrip Brakes-PSC Hydro Assist

  2. #22
    Caught the Bug PilotJK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tumbleweed View Post
    A. Outlet of points to ponder.
    1: Get a bigger trailer than you think you need. 20' minimum.
    2: Get 5,000 lb axles. Better brakes. Higher weight capacity.
    3: Get brakes on both axles. Safety first.
    4: Consider a deck over. Wider axles & tires might require it.
    Thanks! I didn't realize my Jeep is too wide. I'm gonna get a deck over.


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  3. #23
    Been Around the Block RSQCON's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffj View Post
    Yes I agree that the d-ring shouldn't be the primary, but the one advantage to having it as secondary is it keeps your suspension from cycling while on the trailer, which could be several thousand miles.
    Why are you concerned about your suspension cycling?

    Quote Originally Posted by PilotJK View Post
    I just got back from 5 different dealers. Its amazing how differently some businesses price the same exact trailer. Anyways, thanks to everyone for helping a brother out with all your input.
    What trailer did you ask about and what were the different quotes you received? Also be careful with a deck over as they sit quite a bit higher. Might look into something with drive over fenders that is 102" wide like a PJ B6.

  4. #24
    Nothing but a Thing 2Cross's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RSQCON View Post
    Why are you concerned about your suspension cycling?


    What trailer did you ask about and what were the different quotes you received? Also be careful with a deck over as they sit quite a bit higher. Might look into something with drive over fenders that is 102" wide like a PJ B6.
    I agree with rsqcon. ^^^
    I think you want the suspension cycling.
    Drive over fenders are the way to go.



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  5. #25
    Nothing but a Thing jeffj's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=RSQCON;865593]Why are you concerned about your suspension cycling?


    I'm really not that concerned, I'm not really panning on trailering my new rig, but my reasoning behind doing it that way is that keeping the straps at 45 degree angle is that it pulls the jeep down on the trailer. And with it not cycling seems to be a bonus, because if you are going to trailer your rig and you have 12,000$ worth of coil overs and bypass shocks it seems like it would save the oil and where and tear on other parts too. I am not an engineer and have no type of data, but in my dirt bike days a friend of mine used to sag the rear of his bike down so it would not cycle. He told me to grab my oil reservoir, that was not tied down and it was hot from going up and down and his of course was not hot at all. Just my 2 cents.
    2014 Jeep JKU Rubicon

  6. #26
    Fresh Catch Baja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2Cross View Post
    I agree with the above.
    Get a big trailer. Get strong axles.
    I like D-rings to the axles but do Y straps over the tires. I think D-rings are better because when you stop the rig doesn't 'roll' forward (an inch or two). Plus with the D-rings to the axles you still have the vehicles suspension to absorb some of the bumps.



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    This! But the most important reason to tie off to axles and to let the Jeeps suspension move, is not letting the straps move. If you tie of to frame, the suspension will still move a bit and it will eventually loosen your straps


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  7. #27
    Hooked JamesCo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2Cross View Post
    I don't like the lasso either. But it's quick and easy for a short tow to the trailhead


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    Well they do work. I used them when I hauled travel trailers and cargo trailers. They just allow it to move if you stop to hard. But for what your doing your setup is great.


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  8. #28
    Knows a Thing or Two holliewood61's Avatar
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    I use an 18 foot 3.5 ton big tex to haul mine. I always strap to the axles for reasons already stated. The axles move very little compared to strapping to the bumpers. Another thing to look into is to get a good quality hitch and weight distribution bars. The bars will reduce squat on your tow rig and with the bars you wont unload the front end of your tow rig if you have to get onto the brakes hard.

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  9. #29
    Caught the Bug PilotJK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RSQCON View Post
    Why are you concerned about your suspension cycling?


    What trailer did you ask about and what were the different quotes you received? Also be careful with a deck over as they sit quite a bit higher. Might look into something with drive over fenders that is 102" wide like a PJ B6.
    I wound up getting a 16ft Sure-Trac with removable fender for $300 cheaper than the competing dealers. I measured twice and my Jeep will fit.
    Just Empty Every Pocket

  10. #30
    Been Around the Block RSQCON's Avatar
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    Congrats.

    I've asked 4+ dealers for a quote on a PB B6 102"w x 22' and I'm getting quotes for $8-10k. Granted I have anywhere from $1000 to $1500 in upgrade but still seems a little pricey.

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