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Thread: Wall plug

  1. #11
    Been Around the Block Frydaddy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WW_Svi View Post
    Keep in mind that nothing is 100% efficient and power supplies/inverters are rated for the output power. So if it's 750w but only 80% efficient then it will take more DC power to convert to AC.

    750w/120v=6.25A output
    (750w/12v)/.8=78.125A

    Just need to verify the efficiency of the power supply and adjust accordingly.

    Also cheaper power supplies use modified sine waves and some equipment needs a pure sine wave to run properly.
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    Yes, exactly this. This is definitely round-two in today's lesson.

  2. #12
    Meme King WJCO's Avatar
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    I ran 4 gauge to the back and installed a 1000 watt. It will run a grinder fine and hopefully a small coffee pot this summer.

  3. #13
    Been Around the Block Frydaddy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WJCO View Post
    I ran 4 gauge to the back and installed a 1000 watt. It will run a grinder fine and hopefully a small coffee pot this summer.
    Could work. This brings up an interesting topic of reactive loads. An inverter typically has two values to its capacity. One called "Peak", Usually 150% of the regular load. This

    A coffee maker is a resistive load, constant pull. As long as its wattage is below the regular value, you'll be fine.

    A grinder (or anything with a motor) will take a large pull at the beginning as the motor spins up. This is where the peak capacity comes in to play. the value on the grinders label only covers a no-load situation. But if peak draw of the grinder goes above the peak capacity of the inverter, something will pop.

    TL;DR - Try to keep your loads under the lesser of the two inverter capacities.



    I dont even know how a modified sine wave affects AC motors, but it can't be healthy.
    DO NOT attach the AC neutral line to the vehicle ground. (Assume both prongs are hot)
    modified-sine-wave-vs-pure-sine-wave.jpg

  4. #14
    Knows a Thing or Two Kalums's Avatar
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    I'm starting to realize I need and electrical engineering class just to work on my Jeep. Although I will admit I'm learning alot here.

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  5. #15
    Been Around the Block Frydaddy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kalums View Post
    I'm starting to realize I need and electrical engineering class just to work on my Jeep. Although I will admit I'm learning alot here.

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    Theres a lot of hocus-pocus involved to get the magic pixies down the copper pipe. The main takeaway is to be aware of how the wattage converts on both sides of the inverter. P=V*I, and leave some wiggle room. WJCO gave an example above, while WW_SVI and I geeked out a bit (but covered everything you could need on the topic).

  6. #16
    Knows a Thing or Two Kalums's Avatar
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    Geeking out is good and perfectly fine... I personally appreciate it. I've only purchased an 800w inverter but i will be running 4ga wire and run a curcuit breaker/switch (like the bussman marine version) so hopefully that will work for me. I don't ever plan on running it at full load or even approach surge level. Like I said though I appreciate the information so, keep it coming. 👍👍👍

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  7. #17
    Fresh Catch lopezchris1267's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frydaddy View Post
    For those of us without a Rubicon... Yes, it's not that hard to install an inverter. Here, I mounted mine under my DIY privacy cover in the rear. I have since upgraded to a 750Watt (1000 watt peak) inverter.

    To find the best one for your needs you need to do a little math to find the size you need, then work form there. You need the right sized wiring and the right fuse beside the battery to match your inverter. The stock cigarette outlet can only handle 10amps at 12v, barring losses, thats less than an amp at 120V.

    P=V*I, Watts = Volts X Current. My 750W inverter math goes, 750W/120V= 6.3Amps AC, but will draw 750W/12V= 63Amps DC. At full load, the engine should be running (and maybe revving) Since I ran about 20 Feet of wire, I need to use 4AWG size wire straight to the battery, and a 65Amp breaker to protect the wiring. Thats some heavy wiring for just 6 amps of AC power.

    Attachment 253182

    A popular breaker type http://a.co/huP4P8c
    Wire sizing/distance chart http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/am...uge-d_730.html
    Typical Appliance load chart https://www.georgiapower.com/in-your...y/chart.cshtml
    Yeah mine did not come with one. my inverter looks exactly like yours. I haven't mounted it as I wanted to take it apart and install the outlets next to my emergency lights button. I have 4 spare slots.

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  8. #18
    Been Around the Block Frydaddy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lopezchris1267 View Post
    Yeah mine did not come with one. my inverter looks exactly like yours. I haven't mounted it as I wanted to take it apart and install the outlets next to my emergency lights button. I have 4 spare slots.

    Sent from my XT1650 using WAYALIFE mobile app
    By the Hazard button in the center console? no. It wont work. Not only are those covers too small for an AC outlet, but there is still a circuit board across the entire module. It took a lot of work to just fit a few simple switches.

    Your best bet would be to fit a single outlet to the right side, where there is a silly little hook. In this picture, I replaced it with another 12V outlet.

    And I dont recommend dissembling the Inverter. Just build a jumper cable into your mounted outlet. Oh, and dont ground the neutral AC line (white). Just assume both vertical prongs are hot.

    IMG_20160514_134121992.jpg

  9. #19
    Fresh Catch lopezchris1267's Avatar
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    I can't do it the either. I have a 12v outlet on the right and side mirror controls on the left. As soon as I get some time I might mount it in my center console or glove compartment so it'll be out of site.

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  10. #20
    Hooked Romac2223's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraniteCrystal View Post
    I bought a Rubi for the wall plug. Best $10k I ever spent.
    Nice


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