Fault Spring from King? Front Evo coilover sagged/collapsed.

AdrockTT

New member
Anyone had a faulty spring from Evo/King? My front passenger side coils are sagged and drooping majorly (vehicle leaning/uneven). King suggests a "bad spring". Other corners do not look effected and are at normal set ride height. Pulling springs off to check shortly, but is this a common thing? King won't warranty due to powder coat on the coils...
 
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AdrockTT

New member
You mean the springs are compressed more then the others? Both top and bottom springs?


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Jeep was all level and ride height set. Now after compressing them wheeling, at least the top spring (bottom to be assessed when off the Jeep) is near totally collapsed/compressed. The Jeep now slumps to that side like a gut wounded warrior...
 
J

JKDream

Guest
Jeep was all level and ride height set. Now after compressing them wheeling, at least the top spring (bottom to be assessed when off the Jeep) is near totally collapsed/compressed. The Jeep now slumps to that side like a gut wounded warrior...
Do you have the springs on the right sides? There's a top and bottom spring. Backwards would over compress them and sag it out.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Sounds like your coil got over compressed. Have you verified it's the same spring rate as the other side? Should have it etched on the bottom of the coil. That being said, I have had a King coil break on me before.
 

AdrockTT

New member
Sounds like your coil got over compressed. Have you verified it's the same spring rate as the other side? Should have it etched on the bottom of the coil. That being said, I have had a King coil break on me before.

They are the same rates. I could have very easily over compressed it, as I did climb a really tall rock leading with the passenger side and really stuffed the wheel north into the fender at that point.

Is this common to over compress the spring and end up with it damaged/sagging? It's my first experience with this scenario, as I thought you could fully compress without issue.

Sounds like I need to just replace the one bad coil and move on (hoping/assuming this won't commonly occur again)?
 

AdrockTT

New member
Do you have the springs on the right sides? There's a top and bottom spring. Backwards would over compress them and sag it out.

Yes, springs at on correctly and were just fine for 2 weeks after install. After wheeling, one is now collapsed (as Eddie is suggesting here).
 
J

JKDream

Guest
They are the same rates. I could have very easily over compressed it, as I did climb a really tall rock leading with the passenger side and really stuffed the wheel north into the fender at that point.

Is this common to over compress the spring and end up with it damaged/sagging? It's my first experience with this scenario, as I thought you could fully compress without issue.

Sounds like I need to just replace the one bad coil and move on (hoping/assuming this won't commonly occur again)?

Yes, springs at on correctly and were just fine for 2 weeks after install. After wheeling, one is now collapsed (as Eddie is suggesting here).

You would only be over-compressing them if your bumpstop is not set up correctly.
How much lift are you at now - and what size are your bumps?
 

AdrockTT

New member
You would only be over-compressing them if your bumpstop is not set up correctly.
How much lift are you at now - and what size are your bumps?

About 4.5" estimated lift on Evo bolt on coilovers. Bumps are Evo/King Air bump Rockstop kits.
 

AdrockTT

New member
Do the bolt ones have a timing ring? If so where is that set?

The same as when initially setup and at correct ride height - about 1/2" below the slider. I will find some pics of the original setup but now that it is slumped over, it's back at the shop...

Anyone else over-compress and "break" a spring?
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
They are the same rates. I could have very easily over compressed it, as I did climb a really tall rock leading with the passenger side and really stuffed the wheel north into the fender at that point.

Is this common to over compress the spring and end up with it damaged/sagging? It's my first experience with this scenario, as I thought you could fully compress without issue.

Sounds like I need to just replace the one bad coil and move on (hoping/assuming this won't commonly occur again)?

No, it's not common. Typically, most coil over springs are a soft enough rate that you can have them go solid and without ill effect. The coil I broke was in the rear on my EVO lever and that was a 400. More than likely, you just had a bad spring.
 

AdrockTT

New member
Latest update - sounds like "on occasion" heat from powder coat can temper a spring and change the spring rate/make the spring faulty. This plus major compression from wheeling = failure. I'll know more soon when we disassemble.

King doesn't make their springs and sources them from the industry, mainly Eibach. Sounds like they come coated and King tests a few from each batch for proper rate and height.

That said, I think I need heavier rear spring rates for the Evo coilovers anyway...guess I'm about to be deep another few hundred for 3 more springs.

What rates does everyone advise for a heavy JKU for rear setup? Evo standard rates are 200lb 10" coil on top and 250lb 12" coil on bottom. Thoughts? 250/250? 200/300? 250/300?
 

AdrockTT

New member
No, it's not common. Typically, most coil over springs are a soft enough rate that you can have them go solid and without ill effect. The coil I broke was in the rear on my EVO lever and that was a 400. More than likely, you just had a bad spring.

Thanks Eddie. See above for what Kind is telling me.

I'd love your thoughts on proper rear spring rates for my setup. I'm coilbound on the upepr spring for the rear passenger (prob w extra weight of the gas tank) and more than 80% preload on the upper spring for the rear driver.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Assuming you're running bolt on coil overs, the standard rates for the rear were way too soft for my taste and that left my Jeep sagging when loaded up even with a lot of preload set. Before upgrading to DTD's, I believe I was running 300/300. That might be a bit too much for most and this left me sitting ass high when unloaded but I'm almost never unloaded.
 

AdrockTT

New member
Assuming you're running bolt on coil overs, the standard rates for the rear were way too soft for my taste and that left my Jeep sagging when loaded up even with a lot of preload set. Before upgrading to DTD's, I believe I was running 300/300. That might be a bit too much for most and this left me sitting ass high when unloaded but I'm almost never unloaded.

Thank you. I'm not sure I need 300/300, but I think I need to go up. It's currently 200/250, would you advise 250/250 or 250/300?

BTW all of the shocks also shipped to me low on nitrogen and need to be filled. Is this also common?
 

TrainWreck618

Caught the Bug
If you can find a place near you to get your corner weights, you might want to call up a company like PAC racing springs and have them calculate which springs would match up best.


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aermotor

Member
I was thinking the heat of the powder coat could have definitely affected an already questionable spring. I have read the EVO Coilover thread like 4 times and finally ordered a complete set for myself. I went 250/300 on all 4 corners. I have a JKU, Zeon 10 steel line up front and carry a lot of gear and always have to deal with major sag in the back, so I think it will do me right and still have a reasonably soft ride. I also went with the comp adjusters.
 
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AdrockTT

New member
If you can find a place near you to get your corner weights, you might want to call up a company like PAC racing springs and have them calculate which springs would match up best.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

Thanks! I have been meaning to measure the weights (at least front and rear axle numbers), but now I'm semi-disabled back in the shop...hmm. Maybe someone will have a corner weight scale.
 
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