Pro rock axle 44/60 set up with stock(ish) suspension

desertrunner

desertrunner

Active Member
Has anyone tried to set up a pr44 / SF pr60 combo on essentially a stock jk suspension?

I'm pretty close to being able to put in an order with dynatrac but I am trying to plan ahead a little with issues I might run into trying to get these axles set up on my 2dr that is sitting only on 4dr springs and shocks everything else is stock.

If I order the standard pr44 front housing everything should be the same as the stock axle geometry and I'm assuming it can swap in with little issue minus maybe the stock drive shaft that I'm not sure I can re use with the pr44.
If I go with the SF Pr60 rear I know I will at a minimum need a new rear drive shaft but not sure if I can get away with the stock control arms.

Anyone have some insight with setting these things up on a stock suspension?

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wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
If you go this route, you need to order the rear 60 in a factory width. It wouldn't be my first choice and I can't say for absolute sure but I see no reason why you couldn't order both axles with factory pinion flanges. All the control arm brackets that come on both axles will be the same as factory and you should be able to just bolt them up.
 
desertrunner

desertrunner

Active Member
notnalc68 said:
Since you have a Sport, you could get the front PR44 & the rear factory 44 upgrade kit.


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So I have ran into am issue talking with dynatrac on their axle packages. They only offer them with the unlimited extra caster housing pr44 and being that I am only lifted 1.25" I'm going to at least need all 4 front control arms so by the time I do that, pay someone to set up the rear locker and gears I'm pretty much at the same price as just custom ordering a standard pr44 front and semi float 60 rear, which to Eddie's point it's over kill I don't really need it but if I'm paying the same I might as well have it

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notnalc68

notnalc68

That dude from Mississippi
desertrunner said:
So I have ran into am issue talking with dynatrac on their axle packages. They only offer them with the unlimited extra caster housing pr44 and being that I am only lifted 1.25" I'm going to at least need all 4 front control arms so by the time I do that, pay someone to set up the rear locker and gears I'm pretty much at the same price as just custom ordering a standard pr44 front and semi float 60 rear, which to Eddie's point it's over kill I don't really need it but if I'm paying the same I might as well have it

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I didn't know that. Thanks for the info.


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desertrunner

desertrunner

Active Member
And I guess my question with the 60 rear is since it's high pinion with the control arms mounts in the same spot am I going to screw up my pinion angle and need control arms to set it up correctly. If I can plan ahead as best as possible so it's not a total guess and check game

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desertrunner

desertrunner

Active Member
wayoflife said:
If you go this route, you need to order the rear 60 in a factory width. It wouldn't be my first choice and I can't say for absolute sure but I see no reason why you couldn't order both axles with factory pinion flanges. All the control arm brackets that come on both axles will be the same as factory and you should be able to just bolt them up.
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In regards to the stock driveshaft flanges, my thought on the rear was that it would be too long with the bigger 60 pumpkin to fit in there.

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jorgelrod

jorgelrod

Hooked
desertrunner said:
So I have ran into am issue talking with dynatrac on their axle packages. They only offer them with the unlimited extra caster housing pr44 and being that I am only lifted 1.25" I'm going to at least need all 4 front control arms so by the time I do that, pay someone to set up the rear locker and gears I'm pretty much at the same price as just custom ordering a standard pr44 front and semi float 60 rear, which to Eddie's point it's over kill I don't really need it but if I'm paying the same I might as well have it

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I ran into this issue running a 2.5" lift. There is no way around getting the control arms if you want it done right. Makes a ton of sense to go rear 60 price wise if you don't have a locker/gears already installed on the rear.
 
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desertrunner

desertrunner

Active Member
jorgelrod said:
I ran into this issue running a 2.5" lift. There is no way around getting the control arms if you want it done right. Makes a ton of sense to go rear 60 price wise if you don't have a locker/gears already installed on the rear.
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With the unlimited housing I agree to get it set up right its gonna take 4 control arms at a min and at that point I might as well toss in a set of 2" plush rides to get more of that 3" lift. But then I'm talking springs, shocks, break lines, control arms, which would set me back too much to afford to do the pr60 rear so if I can get the standard 44 to bolt right up with no suspension changes I should be good to have the cash for the 60 rear. I really do like the set up i have with 33s right now and plan to run it for a while longer before I make the jump for new suspension and 37s. I just really want to get new gears and lockers in this thing without spending money twice so if it's possible to swap those in on the stock suspension I'm gonna do it haha

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J

JKDream

Guest
jorgelrod said:
I ran into this issue running a 2.5" lift. There is no way around getting the control arms if you want it done right. Makes a ton of sense to go rear 60 price wise if you don't have a locker/gears already installed on the rear.
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Agreed. Even with 3.5 inches of lift I needed both uppers and lowers.

desertrunner said:
With the unlimited housing I agree to get it set up right its gonna take 4 control arms at a min and at that point I might as well toss in a set of 2" plush rides to get more of that 3" lift. But then I'm talking springs, shocks, break lines, control arms, which would set me back too much to afford to do the pr60 rear so if I can get the standard 44 to bolt right up with no suspension changes I should be good to have the cash for the 60 rear. I really do like the set up i have with 33s right now and plan to run it for a while longer before I make the jump for new suspension and 37s. I just really want to get new gears and lockers in this thing without spending money twice so if it's possible to swap those in on the stock suspension I'm gonna do it haha

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You're going to be kicking yourself if you buy the standard housing just to add a lift later.
JK's drive SO much better with additional caster.
PR60 is an awesome axle, there's no doubting that.
But aren't you putting the cart before the horse a little bit?
It's still a semi-float, and can still bend flanges, and your 44 is plenty strong for 37s.
The trail leader package sounds like it would suit you better, and leave money left over for a lift.
Just my opinion.
 
desertrunner

desertrunner

Active Member
JKDream said:
Agreed. Even with 3.5 inches of lift I needed both uppers and lowers.



You're going to be kicking yourself if you buy the standard housing just to add a lift later.
JK's drive SO much better with additional caster.
PR60 is an awesome axle, there's no doubting that.
But aren't you putting the cart before the horse a little bit?
It's still a semi-float, and can still bend flanges, and your 44 is plenty strong for 37s.
The trail leader package sounds like it would suit you better, and leave money left over for a lift.
Just my opinion.
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Your right I am putting the cart before the horse a bit here and really the issue I'm trying to solve right now is I have no lockers and I HATE the 3.21s. When i was pricing out options going with the trail leader package I'm going to spend the 6500 for the package plus the $for the evo 2" plush rides up front which will mean new shocks new brake lines and 4 control arms and potentially high steer since it will push me over 3" of lift on my 2 door and also pay someone to set up gears and locker in the rear (which I'm not super confident in a good shop here in town to do) all of that comes out to be the same exact price of a standard pr44 and a semi float 60 rear if I can set it up with my current suspension. For that I would get a stronger rear axle which yes the 44 rear can handle 37s But if I'm paying the same the 60 is still stronger and both axles built by dynatrac which I like and I'm still undecided on air vs electric lockers. Since the trail leader is only air I'll have to buy a compressor too.

So I'm kinda stuck on what is a better option for me while sticking with the 33s for now and getting gears and lockers without spending money twice on axle set up

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J

JKDream

Guest
desertrunner said:
Your right I am putting the cart before the horse a bit here and really the issue I'm trying to solve right now is I have no lockers and I HATE the 3.21s. When i was pricing out options going with the trail leader package I'm going to spend the 6500 for the package plus the $for the evo 2" plush rides up front which will mean new shocks new brake lines and 4 control arms and potentially high steer since it will push me over 3" of lift on my 2 door and also pay someone to set up gears and locker in the rear (which I'm not super confident in a good shop here in town to do) all of that comes out to be the same exact price of a standard pr44 and a semi float 60 rear if I can set it up with my current suspension. For that I would get a stronger rear axle which yes the 44 rear can handle 37s But if I'm paying the same the 60 is still stronger and both axles built by dynatrac which I like and I'm still undecided on air vs electric lockers. Since the trail leader is only air I'll have to buy a compressor too.

So I'm kinda stuck on what is a better option for me while sticking with the 33s for now and getting gears and lockers without spending money twice on axle set up

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I guess it depends how much you are wanting to spend/how quickly you want to be on bigger tires and a lift.
I use my lockers quite a bit, but in some of the areas that I wheel even with lockers if I didn't have a 37+ inch tire I wouldn't be getting anywhere.
Either way I think you'll be spending quite a bit more on the 44/60 Combo.
Even at $1000 to hook up the rear, and that's ridiculously high for one axle, it's still a 3-4k difference.
I also don't think the rear 60 clears properly without a lift, and you'll need new driveshafts regardless of your suspension.
Personally (my opinion) I never really understood the 44/60 combo. You still have the same issues in the rear, and are still limited to a 37" tire max.
If anything I'd consider saving for the 60/60 combo.
 
J

JKDream

Guest
desertrunner said:
Your right I am putting the cart before the horse a bit here and really the issue I'm trying to solve right now is I have no lockers and I HATE the 3.21s. When i was pricing out options going with the trail leader package I'm going to spend the 6500 for the package plus the $for the evo 2" plush rides up front which will mean new shocks new brake lines and 4 control arms and potentially high steer since it will push me over 3" of lift on my 2 door and also pay someone to set up gears and locker in the rear (which I'm not super confident in a good shop here in town to do) all of that comes out to be the same exact price of a standard pr44 and a semi float 60 rear if I can set it up with my current suspension. For that I would get a stronger rear axle which yes the 44 rear can handle 37s But if I'm paying the same the 60 is still stronger and both axles built by dynatrac which I like and I'm still undecided on air vs electric lockers. Since the trail leader is only air I'll have to buy a compressor too.

So I'm kinda stuck on what is a better option for me while sticking with the 33s for now and getting gears and lockers without spending money twice on axle set up

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Just a thought, you could also do the rear upgrade (44) and sell it down the road for probably close to what you put into it. Rubi owners can't do a 35 spline rear so it holds some value. That savings would get you on a lift and 37s for the time being as well.

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desertrunner

desertrunner

Active Member
Either way it sounds like I'm stuck lifting my jeep more which I was trying to avoid since I really like the way I'm sitting on 33s currently and was hoping to keep the 33s for another year or 2. The unlimited front housing wont work with what I have and if the 60 wont clear with what I have I'm gonna end up on a 3" lift nice axles and 33s haha. I could just keep saving until I can do axles and suspension and 37s all at the same time but that just leaves me cussing and frustrated every time I drive the damn jeep with 3.21s and no lockers haha. My hope was to get at a min a new front axle new gears and lockers this winter, then next winter work on suspension and 37s, I just can't quite figure out how to make it work without spending money twice. About the only solution I found without having to make major suspension changes now was go with the standard pr44 housing and the 60 rear, But it's sounding like that might not work out like I was hoping.

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AZ Explorer

AZ Explorer

Caught the Bug
desertrunner said:
Either way it sounds like I'm stuck lifting my jeep more which I was trying to avoid since I really like the way I'm sitting on 33s currently and was hoping to keep the 33s for another year or 2. The unlimited front housing wont work with what I have and if the 60 wont clear with what I have I'm gonna end up on a 3" lift nice axles and 33s haha. I could just keep saving until I can do axles and suspension and 37s all at the same time but that just leaves me cussing and frustrated every time I drive the damn jeep with 3.21s and no lockers haha. My hope was to get at a min a new front axle new gears and lockers this winter, then next winter work on suspension and 37s, I just can't quite figure out how to make it work without spending money twice. About the only solution I found without having to make major suspension changes now was go with the standard pr44 housing and the 60 rear, But it's sounding like that might not work out like I was hoping.

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Sounds like the problem is you want to do something now rather than wait (Believe me I get it, it's not a slam) The cheapest way to get by is add a lockright or something like that which is cheap, to the rear. Live with the gear ratio for now. Then next winter get the stuff you really want and do it right the first time. My Jeep has a factory locker like that and it did pretty good, and it's still holding up to my 37's so far. Granted I was lucky enough to have had 3.73 gears before I went bigger. Still, I think you'd be fine for a bit.
 
desertrunner

desertrunner

Active Member
So is the general consensus that the pr44 unlimited housing is THAT much better than the standard housing that it's worth waiting or making suspension changes now? And that the SF60 rear is a waste of money since I will bend the flanges just the same as the stock 44 shafts? Just so I understand haha I was super stoked about the solution i came up with to get new axles without having to jump through too many hoops with my suspension

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J

JKDream

Guest
desertrunner said:
So is the general consensus that the pr44 unlimited housing is THAT much better than the standard housing that it's worth waiting or making suspension changes now? And that the SF60 rear is a waste of money since I will bend the flanges just the same as the stock 44 shafts? Just so I understand haha I was super stoked about the solution i came up with to get new axles without having to jump through too many hoops with my suspension

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Yes, the unlimited housing is a big improvement. I swapped mine in about a month ago and honestly it's become a lot more enjoyable to drive. Cruising down the highway and not feeling like it's going to lane change unexpectedly is a great thing. I wouldn't say the PR60 is a waste by any means. But it may be overkill for what your goals are. That's just my opinion.

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WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
The benefit to the unlimited housing is not only the caster, but the half inch thick tubes. If I were in your shoes, I would do it. Extra caster is helpful. Later when you lift your Jeep, you'd be glad you did it. I went with the unlimited housing but standard caster as it was a custom build and I didn't know how it would work out. I now wish I had gone with the extra caster for a better pinion angle. I have it dialed in well but my pinion angle isn't optimum. Have you looked at core4x4s arms? They come with JJs on one end and are affordable IMO.
 
desertrunner

desertrunner

Active Member
WJCO said:
The benefit to the unlimited housing is not only the caster, but the half inch thick tubes. If I were in your shoes, I would do it. Extra caster is helpful. Later when you lift your Jeep, you'd be glad you did it. I went with the unlimited housing but standard caster as it was a custom build and I didn't know how it would work out. I now wish I had gone with the extra caster for a better pinion angle. I have it dialed in well but my pinion angle isn't optimum. Have you looked at core4x4s arms? They come with JJs on one end and are affordable IMO.
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Since it would have been a custom order my plan was to buy the extra thick housing with the standard caster.

My thought was, on my last JKUR and plenty of others running stock rubi axles on 37s and a 3-4" lift with just a drag link flip I didn't think my jeep drove that terrible sure it could be better and I have never rode in or driven a jeep with a pr44 unlimited so maybe it's a significant difference that I'm not seeing.

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desertrunner

desertrunner

Active Member
In regards to the rear set up i was kinda just writing off the trail leader package since it had the unlimited housing and I couldn't find any solution for the rear that didn't cost just as much as the sf60 without spending money twice, and even with the trail leader I'm at the mercy of the 5 shops in town I called and only 1 even knew what the hell I was talking about with putting in new gears and a locker, makes me scared to let anyone here drill a hole into my housing

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