Personal experience with Evo Double D long arm lift kit

CinciRubi17

New member
Hey guys, been on the forums for awhile but this is my first post....I have finally gotten the money together as well as the time to start my jeep build. I've had my 2017 JKUR with the 6 speed for about 9 months now and have already racked up 20k miles[emoji849] I'm wanting to get my suspension setup hopefully within a month or two. My goal is to run 37's with 4" of lift I'll be doing moderate to hard trails as well as a lot of weekend trips that require 3+ hours of driving to get to off-roading spots so great on road and off-road handling is a must! I'm wanting my rig to have a good mix of overland capabilities as well as being able to tackle some challenging "standard" rock trails. My build I have planned so far goes as follows:

Evo Double D 4" Long Arm lift kit

Bilstein 5100 shocks

Evo front and rear axle truss and C's

Adams front and rear 1310 extreme duty drive shafts

Re-gear to 5.13's

37" nitto ridge grapplers on KMC machete beadlocks


Those are the parts I have been deciding to pull the trigger on. The guys at my local off-road shop shop it's a great setup but I'm curious as what you guys think. I would love to hear some personal feedback about anyone running the Evo Double D!! Thanks a ton guys! Also tell me if I have this in the right section of the forum?

Here's a pic of my stock 2017 JKUR from my recent trip to Silver Lake Michigan

IMG_0958.jpg






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DWiggles

Caught the Bug
Im happy! :thumb: :yup:

What are you interested in knowing? I've had the Double D on my jeep since October of 2015

2017-02-04+17.58.10.jpg

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aermotor

Member
I'm personally still running a short arm with 4"+ lift and don't really see the need to go long arm that will justify the 5K cost. And every time I try to, ORE talks me out of it with common sense. I do have all 8 adjustable arms though.

I would skip the axle truss as they have shown themselves to cause more damage than they prevent I believe.

You might also check out the Rancho 9000 shocks.

You will need 1350 driveshafts, do not get the 1310s.

4.88s might be better with a manual trans. I believe is the consensus.
 
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DWiggles

Caught the Bug
I'm personally still running a short arm with 4"+ lift and don't really see the need to go long arm that will justify the 5K cost.

4.88s might be better with a manual trans. I believe is the consensus.

#1, What? https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/44355-2012-Exhaust-Loop-Mod-for-EVO-Long-Arm :hmm: You JUST bumped this thread not 4 months ago?

#2 I have 5.13s in my jeep, 6 speed, 37s? whats the problem? everyone I wheel with that has 4.88s WISHES they had 5.13s... 6 speed AND auto... :idontknow: :thinking:

OP, I was under the impression you were asking about the Double D kit, not your plans in general.

I have the bilstein 5100s on my jeep :thumb:, skip the truss, C-gussets are NEEDED. the factory u-joints are 1330s, so a 1310 driveline will be weaker than stock, and a 1350 will be stronger. If you would rather break drivelines than factory axle shafts, stick with 1310 up front, if you want to upgrade your front shafts eventually anyway (37" tire, I assume you do and if you dont, you should reconsider) then go 1350. NO reason to run a 1310 rear driveline, 1350 either way...
 
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Ddays

Hooked
Have had the DD Long arm kit on for close to a 1000 miles now and on-road difference for me is night and day. Hit 95 mph the other day just to see if there was an upper limit to the stability but common sense kicked in when I realized that 100mph in a Jeep was not necessary. There was more left and I'm confident that if I had to push it for some zombie apocalypse reason I'd be able to do it. if I would have done that on my old setup I would have shit myself by the time I hit 85. Either it wasn't all that great or the DD setup is that much better. I'm thinking the DD is that much better.

I wish I could report on what the off-road differences are but I really haven't pushed it much as I'm waiting on my new shocks - Rockstars went on the same time the DD kit did so my coils will come unseated when crossed up.

What you have to decide is whether or not the considerable cost difference is worth it. If you are not a welder better figure in $1500 or so in labor for the install to be safe. If you don't do much high speed driving it won't be worth the expenditure IMHO.

Edit: Ditto on the 1350's and 5:13 gears. I ran the 4:88's before my axle swap and the 5:13's I have now are the better match for the 37" tires.
 
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jesse3638

Hooked
#1, What? https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/44355-2012-Exhaust-Loop-Mod-for-EVO-Long-Arm :hmm: You JUST bumped this thread not 4 months ago?

#2 I have 5.13s in my jeep, 6 speed, 37s? whats the problem? everyone I wheel with that has 4.88s WISHES they had 5.13s... 6 speed AND auto... :idontknow: :thinking:

OP, I was under the impression you were asking about the Double D kit, not your plans in general.

I have the bilstein 5100s on my jeep :thumb:, skip the truss, C-gussets are NEEDED. the factory u-joints are 1330s, so a 1310 driveline will be weaker than stock, and a 1350 will be stronger. If you would rather break drivelines than factory axle shafts, stick with 1310 up front, if you want to upgrade your front shafts eventually anyway (37" tire, I assume you do and if you dont, you should reconsider) then go 1350. NO reason to run a 1310 rear driveline, 1350 either way...

^^^What He Said^^^

Blew my rear 1310 last year on 35's with stock 4:10's. I wasn't even that hard on the gas either. I plan on upgrading the front to a 1350 to match the "new" rear and installing Chro-mo shafts at the same time. I plan on regearing to 5:13's when I finally wear out my 35's and go to 37's. 4:88's will get you closer to stock but I'm wanting the added "power" 5:13's will give. Sure you'll run a bit higher in the RPM range when cruising on the freeway but I'd prefer not having to downshift when pulling the slightest grade. I'd compare the Rancho 9000's to the 5100's and see what seems to offer the better ride and lasts longer. I'm pretty sure my rears are blown as they are both leaking pretty bad with 5 years and 30K on them.
 

I-Eat-Mud

New member
^^^What He Said^^^

Blew my rear 1310 last year on 35's with stock 4:10's. I wasn't even that hard on the gas either. I plan on upgrading the front to a 1350 to match the "new" rear and installing Chro-mo shafts at the same time. I plan on regearing to 5:13's when I finally wear out my 35's and go to 37's. 4:88's will get you closer to stock but I'm wanting the added "power" 5:13's will give. Sure you'll run a bit higher in the RPM range when cruising on the freeway but I'd prefer not having to downshift when pulling the slightest grade.

For what it's worth I have 5.13s on 37s (3.6 not 3.8) and I'm very glad I did not go with the 4.88s.
 

CinciRubi17

New member
#1, What? https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/44355-2012-Exhaust-Loop-Mod-for-EVO-Long-Arm :hmm: You JUST bumped this thread not 4 months ago?

#2 I have 5.13s in my jeep, 6 speed, 37s? whats the problem? everyone I wheel with that has 4.88s WISHES they had 5.13s... 6 speed AND auto... :idontknow: :thinking:

OP, I was under the impression you were asking about the Double D kit, not your plans in general.

I have the bilstein 5100s on my jeep :thumb:, skip the truss, C-gussets are NEEDED. the factory u-joints are 1330s, so a 1310 driveline will be weaker than stock, and a 1350 will be stronger. If you would rather break drivelines than factory axle shafts, stick with 1310 up front, if you want to upgrade your front shafts eventually anyway (37" tire, I assume you do and if you dont, you should reconsider) then go 1350. NO reason to run a 1310 rear driveline, 1350 either way...

Why shouldn't I truss my axles?

According to Adams website and the guy at my local off-road shop the adams 1310 extreme duty series are rated for 37" tires they also make the Heavy duty 1310 which is for 35" tires. My worry with going to a 1350 is that it'll make the weak spot my transfer case?

Also I was asking about how the kit itself is and how it pairs with my other components


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WJCO

Meme King
Why shouldn't I truss my axles?

According to Adams website and the guy at my local off-road shop the adams 1310 extreme duty series are rated for 37" tires they also make the Heavy duty 1310 which is for 35" tires. My worry with going to a 1350 is that it'll make the weak spot my transfer case?

Also I was asking about how the kit itself is and how it pairs with my other components


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The thin factory axle tubes can still fail even with a truss. One instance just happened to one of our members here not that long ago. Also, housing can be damaged while installing it due to the heat.
 

CinciRubi17

New member
Also thanks a ton to everyone for the helpful information!! Defiantly going with the 5.13's and bilsteins over the rancho due to them being aluminum so they won't rust. I took my jeep to Silver Lake and realized that I want to be able to go fast over bumps and still be able to be in control and feel comfortable so going with a long arm will have a big advantage


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jesse3638

Hooked
Why shouldn't I truss my axles?

According to Adams website and the guy at my local off-road shop the adams 1310 extreme duty series are rated for 37" tires they also make the Heavy duty 1310 which is for 35" tires. My worry with going to a 1350 is that it'll make the weak spot my transfer case?

Also I was asking about how the kit itself is and how it pairs with my other components


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Not saying it couldn't be the weak spot but I feel your axles or ring and pinion would be weaker than the T-case.
 

jeffj

Caught the Bug
Also thanks a ton to everyone for the helpful information!! Defiantly going with the 5.13's and bilsteins over the rancho due to them being aluminum so they won't rust. I took my jeep to Silver Lake and realized that I want to be able to go fast over bumps and still be able to be in control and feel comfortable so going with a long arm will have a big advantage


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Good choice on the long arms. You won't be sorry.


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SDG

Caught the Bug
Also thanks a ton to everyone for the helpful information!! Defiantly going with the 5.13's and bilsteins over the rancho due to them being aluminum so they won't rust. I took my jeep to Silver Lake and realized that I want to be able to go fast over bumps and still be able to be in control and feel comfortable so going with a long arm will have a big advantage


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Fast plus bumps = bent stock axle on 37's.

Just as a fyi, if you drive fast it's not an if it happens, it's when, so just plan accordingly.
 

Mybadjk

Caught the Bug
#1, What? https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/44355-2012-Exhaust-Loop-Mod-for-EVO-Long-Arm :hmm: You JUST bumped this thread not 4 months ago?

#2 I have 5.13s in my jeep, 6 speed, 37s? whats the problem? everyone I wheel with that has 4.88s WISHES they had 5.13s... 6 speed AND auto... :idontknow: :thinking:

OP, I was under the impression you were asking about the Double D kit, not your plans in general.

I have the bilstein 5100s on my jeep :thumb:, skip the truss, C-gussets are NEEDED. the factory u-joints are 1330s, so a 1310 driveline will be weaker than stock, and a 1350 will be stronger. If you would rather break drivelines than factory axle shafts, stick with 1310 up front, if you want to upgrade your front shafts eventually anyway (37" tire, I assume you do and if you dont, you should reconsider) then go 1350. NO reason to run a 1310 rear driveline, 1350 either way...

I was unaware that the 1310 were a downsize. But they're heavy duty I guess and Adams says they are good up to 37". I plan on switching my Adams out for 1350s. But the double cardigan is a lot stronger than the cv joint the shafts in my opinion.


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gmb425

New member
Why shouldn't I truss my axles?

According to Adams website and the guy at my local off-road shop the adams 1310 extreme duty series are rated for 37" tires they also make the Heavy duty 1310 which is for 35" tires. My worry with going to a 1350 is that it'll make the weak spot my transfer case?

Also I was asking about how the kit itself is and how it pairs with my other components


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Going 1310 would decrease your current size.

Edit: Or at least what I have been told. I have minimal experience; however, my plan is 1350.


GRBG TRK http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?38800-Garbage-Truck-(GRBG-TRK)
 

notnalc68

That dude from Mississippi
I was unaware that the 1310 were a downsize. But they're heavy duty I guess and Adams says they are good up to 37". I plan on switching my Adams out for 1350s. But the double cardigan is a lot stronger than the cv joint the shafts in my opinion.


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Going 1310 would decrease your current size.

Edit: Or at least what I have been told. I have minimal experience; however, my plan is 1350.


GRBG TRK http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?38800-Garbage-Truck-(GRBG-TRK)

See this...

https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/15419-1310-or-1350


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Long arms will really only help your on road manners. They will not give you any more flex off road. With a 4" lift, if you want the most comfortable ride and have the money, do the DD set up. I have the DD long arms, and the on road driving is incredible. You mentioned you want to run fast over bumps...long arms will help with that, but with 37s and stock axles, shit will bend and break no doubt about it...and truss will not stop that, so don't waste the money. Just know that when you're hitting the dunes or whatever you're doing.


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