Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 25

Thread: Personal experience with Evo Double D long arm lift kit

  1. #1
    Fresh Catch CinciRubi17's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    11

    Personal experience with Evo Double D long arm lift kit

    Hey guys, been on the forums for awhile but this is my first post....I have finally gotten the money together as well as the time to start my jeep build. I've had my 2017 JKUR with the 6 speed for about 9 months now and have already racked up 20k miles I'm wanting to get my suspension setup hopefully within a month or two. My goal is to run 37's with 4" of lift I'll be doing moderate to hard trails as well as a lot of weekend trips that require 3+ hours of driving to get to off-roading spots so great on road and off-road handling is a must! I'm wanting my rig to have a good mix of overland capabilities as well as being able to tackle some challenging "standard" rock trails. My build I have planned so far goes as follows:

    Evo Double D 4" Long Arm lift kit

    Bilstein 5100 shocks

    Evo front and rear axle truss and C's

    Adams front and rear 1310 extreme duty drive shafts

    Re-gear to 5.13's

    37" nitto ridge grapplers on KMC machete beadlocks


    Those are the parts I have been deciding to pull the trigger on. The guys at my local off-road shop shop it's a great setup but I'm curious as what you guys think. I would love to hear some personal feedback about anyone running the Evo Double D!! Thanks a ton guys! Also tell me if I have this in the right section of the forum?

    Here's a pic of my stock 2017 JKUR from my recent trip to Silver Lake Michigan

    IMG_0958.jpg






    Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

  2. #2
    Old Timer DWiggles's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    3,706
    Im happy!

    What are you interested in knowing? I've had the Double D on my jeep since October of 2015

    2017-02-04+17.58.10.jpg

    ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1464146694.207955.jpg

  3. #3
    Knows a Thing or Two aermotor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    517
    I'm personally still running a short arm with 4"+ lift and don't really see the need to go long arm that will justify the 5K cost. And every time I try to, ORE talks me out of it with common sense. I do have all 8 adjustable arms though.

    I would skip the axle truss as they have shown themselves to cause more damage than they prevent I believe.

    You might also check out the Rancho 9000 shocks.

    You will need 1350 driveshafts, do not get the 1310s.

    4.88s might be better with a manual trans. I believe is the consensus.
    Last edited by aermotor; 08-07-2017 at 05:21 PM.
    Idiot with a JK

  4. #4
    Old Timer DWiggles's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    3,706
    Quote Originally Posted by aermotor View Post
    I'm personally still running a short arm with 4"+ lift and don't really see the need to go long arm that will justify the 5K cost.

    4.88s might be better with a manual trans. I believe is the consensus.
    #1, What? https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/...r-EVO-Long-Arm You JUST bumped this thread not 4 months ago?

    #2 I have 5.13s in my jeep, 6 speed, 37s? whats the problem? everyone I wheel with that has 4.88s WISHES they had 5.13s... 6 speed AND auto...

    OP, I was under the impression you were asking about the Double D kit, not your plans in general.

    I have the bilstein 5100s on my jeep , skip the truss, C-gussets are NEEDED. the factory u-joints are 1330s, so a 1310 driveline will be weaker than stock, and a 1350 will be stronger. If you would rather break drivelines than factory axle shafts, stick with 1310 up front, if you want to upgrade your front shafts eventually anyway (37" tire, I assume you do and if you dont, you should reconsider) then go 1350. NO reason to run a 1310 rear driveline, 1350 either way...
    Last edited by DWiggles; 08-07-2017 at 05:50 PM.

  5. #5
    Addict Ddays's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Darlington, Pa
    Posts
    8,931
    Have had the DD Long arm kit on for close to a 1000 miles now and on-road difference for me is night and day. Hit 95 mph the other day just to see if there was an upper limit to the stability but common sense kicked in when I realized that 100mph in a Jeep was not necessary. There was more left and I'm confident that if I had to push it for some zombie apocalypse reason I'd be able to do it. if I would have done that on my old setup I would have shit myself by the time I hit 85. Either it wasn't all that great or the DD setup is that much better. I'm thinking the DD is that much better.

    I wish I could report on what the off-road differences are but I really haven't pushed it much as I'm waiting on my new shocks - Rockstars went on the same time the DD kit did so my coils will come unseated when crossed up.

    What you have to decide is whether or not the considerable cost difference is worth it. If you are not a welder better figure in $1500 or so in labor for the install to be safe. If you don't do much high speed driving it won't be worth the expenditure IMHO.

    Edit: Ditto on the 1350's and 5:13 gears. I ran the 4:88's before my axle swap and the 5:13's I have now are the better match for the 37" tires.
    Last edited by Ddays; 08-07-2017 at 06:15 PM.

  6. #6
    Addict jesse3638's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Apple Valley, CA
    Posts
    5,485
    Quote Originally Posted by DWiggles View Post
    #1, What? https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/...r-EVO-Long-Arm You JUST bumped this thread not 4 months ago?

    #2 I have 5.13s in my jeep, 6 speed, 37s? whats the problem? everyone I wheel with that has 4.88s WISHES they had 5.13s... 6 speed AND auto...

    OP, I was under the impression you were asking about the Double D kit, not your plans in general.

    I have the bilstein 5100s on my jeep , skip the truss, C-gussets are NEEDED. the factory u-joints are 1330s, so a 1310 driveline will be weaker than stock, and a 1350 will be stronger. If you would rather break drivelines than factory axle shafts, stick with 1310 up front, if you want to upgrade your front shafts eventually anyway (37" tire, I assume you do and if you dont, you should reconsider) then go 1350. NO reason to run a 1310 rear driveline, 1350 either way...
    ^^^What He Said^^^

    Blew my rear 1310 last year on 35's with stock 4:10's. I wasn't even that hard on the gas either. I plan on upgrading the front to a 1350 to match the "new" rear and installing Chro-mo shafts at the same time. I plan on regearing to 5:13's when I finally wear out my 35's and go to 37's. 4:88's will get you closer to stock but I'm wanting the added "power" 5:13's will give. Sure you'll run a bit higher in the RPM range when cruising on the freeway but I'd prefer not having to downshift when pulling the slightest grade. I'd compare the Rancho 9000's to the 5100's and see what seems to offer the better ride and lasts longer. I'm pretty sure my rears are blown as they are both leaking pretty bad with 5 years and 30K on them.

  7. #7
    Hooked I-Eat-Mud's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    184
    Quote Originally Posted by jesse3638 View Post
    ^^^What He Said^^^

    Blew my rear 1310 last year on 35's with stock 4:10's. I wasn't even that hard on the gas either. I plan on upgrading the front to a 1350 to match the "new" rear and installing Chro-mo shafts at the same time. I plan on regearing to 5:13's when I finally wear out my 35's and go to 37's. 4:88's will get you closer to stock but I'm wanting the added "power" 5:13's will give. Sure you'll run a bit higher in the RPM range when cruising on the freeway but I'd prefer not having to downshift when pulling the slightest grade.
    For what it's worth I have 5.13s on 37s (3.6 not 3.8) and I'm very glad I did not go with the 4.88s.

  8. #8
    Fresh Catch CinciRubi17's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by DWiggles View Post
    #1, What? https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/...r-EVO-Long-Arm You JUST bumped this thread not 4 months ago?

    #2 I have 5.13s in my jeep, 6 speed, 37s? whats the problem? everyone I wheel with that has 4.88s WISHES they had 5.13s... 6 speed AND auto...

    OP, I was under the impression you were asking about the Double D kit, not your plans in general.

    I have the bilstein 5100s on my jeep , skip the truss, C-gussets are NEEDED. the factory u-joints are 1330s, so a 1310 driveline will be weaker than stock, and a 1350 will be stronger. If you would rather break drivelines than factory axle shafts, stick with 1310 up front, if you want to upgrade your front shafts eventually anyway (37" tire, I assume you do and if you dont, you should reconsider) then go 1350. NO reason to run a 1310 rear driveline, 1350 either way...
    Why shouldn't I truss my axles?

    According to Adams website and the guy at my local off-road shop the adams 1310 extreme duty series are rated for 37" tires they also make the Heavy duty 1310 which is for 35" tires. My worry with going to a 1350 is that it'll make the weak spot my transfer case?

    Also I was asking about how the kit itself is and how it pairs with my other components


    Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

  9. #9
    Meme King WJCO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    28,113
    Quote Originally Posted by CinciRubi17 View Post
    Why shouldn't I truss my axles?

    According to Adams website and the guy at my local off-road shop the adams 1310 extreme duty series are rated for 37" tires they also make the Heavy duty 1310 which is for 35" tires. My worry with going to a 1350 is that it'll make the weak spot my transfer case?

    Also I was asking about how the kit itself is and how it pairs with my other components


    Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
    The thin factory axle tubes can still fail even with a truss. One instance just happened to one of our members here not that long ago. Also, housing can be damaged while installing it due to the heat.
    Jeep parts and accessories purchased through the following link will help support this forum and at no cost to you.
    RECOMMENDED JEEP PARTS & ACCESSORIES



    Support the JL forum: JLWRANGLER.COM

    Jeep JT GLADIATOR FORUM: www.JT-Gladiator.com

  10. #10
    Fresh Catch CinciRubi17's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    11
    Also thanks a ton to everyone for the helpful information!! Defiantly going with the 5.13's and bilsteins over the rancho due to them being aluminum so they won't rust. I took my jeep to Silver Lake and realized that I want to be able to go fast over bumps and still be able to be in control and feel comfortable so going with a long arm will have a big advantage


    Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
“wayoflife” is a moniker that I’ve been using for 20 years now and I chose it because I think it does a great job of explaining, in simple terms, the passion I have for Jeeps and the Jeep way of life. This is a lifestyle that transcends age, gender and race as the only thing you need to be a part of it is a love for the outdoors, a desire to explore, a yearning to take on a challenge and a will to conquer it. Over the years, Cindy and I have attempted to capture the essence of this lifestyle through photographs and videos and share it with others around the world. And, this is how WAYALIFE was born.
Join us
WATCH OUR VIDEOS