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  1. #1
    Hooked Finn Sizzle's Avatar
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    Jun 2013
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    Installation of the ProRock Axle set

    Hey Folks, I finally received my axle set and will be installing them shortly. We will be doing a garage party to get them installed. Looking for feedback/gotchas from anyone who have already installed them. Is there anything I should be preparing for as part of the installation, and pre-work that I need to do? Here is what I know I need to do:

    Post Install
    - Bleed Brakes
    - Measure up for new Driveshafts

    I had not received any instructions with the axles, I'm guessing it should be a simple pull OEM and replace with new axles, however is there a specific post install break in process that I should follow?

    I did find some information on Dynatrac website on gear fluid change: https://www.dynatrac.com/blog/how-to...with-gear-oil/

    They did list this as part of a new axle break-in:
    -If this is a new axle, not simply changing the oil your existing ProRock® axle, you’ll need to repeat the oil fill procedure after 200-500 miles to make sure the axle has enough oil in it.
    -When the axle is new and “breaking-in” it sometimes runs hotter than normal, up to 125C (260F). This may cause some oil to be pushed out through the vent hose at the top of the axle. This should subside as the axle cools and runs at normal temps. Do not be alarmed, but it does make a mess.

    Any insight/suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks folks!
    Last edited by Finn Sizzle; 09-01-2017 at 08:47 PM.
    '95 YJ, 5-speed with 3.5" lift on 33s - Sold
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  2. #2
    Hooked Mizippi's Avatar
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    Dec 2015
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    On my XD60:
    -The ABS lines are not plug and play
    -track bar was a special length


    2007 2WD (upgrades: Hemi, Atlas, 1 Tons, 40s, etc)

  3. #3
    Guy with a Red 2-Door cozdude's Avatar
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    Mar 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Finn Sizzle View Post
    Hey Folks, I finally received my axle set and will be installing them shortly. We will be doing a garage party to get them installed. Looking for feedback/gotchas from anyone who have already installed them. Is there anything I should be preparing for as part of the installation, and pre-work that I need to do? Here is what I know I need to do:

    Post Install
    - Bleed Brakes
    - Measure up for new Driveshafts

    I had not received any instructions with the axles, I'm guessing it should be a simple pull OEM and replace with new axles, however is there a specific post install break in process that I should follow?

    I did find some information on Dynatrac website on gear fluid change: https://www.dynatrac.com/blog/how-to...with-gear-oil/

    They did list this as part of a new axle break-in:
    -If this is a new axle, not simply changing the oil your existing ProRock axle, you’ll need to repeat the oil fill procedure after 200-500 miles to make sure the axle has enough oil in it.
    -When the axle is new and “breaking-in” it sometimes runs hotter than normal, up to 125C (260F). This may cause some oil to be pushed out through the vent hose at the top of the axle. This should subside as the axle cools and runs at normal temps. Do not be alarmed, but it does make a mess.

    Any insight/suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks folks!
    It should all be almost plug and play. Just bleed the brakes, break in the new pads and rotors, break in gears and change fluid after 500 miles. Also measure driveshafts like you mentioned.
    October 16, 2013, wednesday early evening, east of the pacific ocean, selectee for truly random and boring Parking lot photo of the moment grand platinum prize winner!

    2011 JKS
    EVO Bolt-on Coilovers, EVO 1/4 pounder w/ stinger, 37" Cooper STT Pros, PR44, and some EVO stuff

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  4. #4
    Knows a Thing or Two Journeyman's Avatar
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    Nov 2015
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    I don't think it's the case with all installations but my jku required an abs bleed.
    With the extra width up front caused some rubbing issues at full bump, which I resolved by trimming for sheet metal.
    I also could not keep my rear lower axle side bolts torqued for the first 1k. I re-torqued them three times before they finally stayed put. They made an awful creaking popping noise that we actually thought at first was an internal bad gear setup.


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  5. #5
    Meme King WJCO's Avatar
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    If you look up any manufacturer's gear break in instructions online, they're all about the same. Keep your speed down as much as you can for first 500 miles and don't tow. If you have to do long highway driving, try to stop and let the gears cool down. When I did mine (front). I kept the axle on jackstands and then used floor jacks to slowly raise it up. I installed the upper mount bolts first, then the lower. Fully cycle your axle before you put the springs in to make sure it's not rubbing anywhere, etc.

  6. #6
    Nothing but a Thing TrainWreck618's Avatar
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    You can also e-mail Dynatrac and request any information related to your axles. They should have torque charts, e-brake routing info, general info, etc..


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  7. #7
    Knows a Thing or Two Mybadjk's Avatar
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    Wasn't their special steps to setting the rear speed sensors? I remember seeing a write up.


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  8. #8
    Knows a Thing or Two Journeyman's Avatar
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    If you've changed out your front speed sensors to something aftermarket (timken etc) in my experience their not as long as the factory mopar/jeep speed sensors. I replaced mine with a new mopar set and the length worked out great.


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