Bent tie road?

tdougherty81

New member
Thank you. Would an alignment cause this issue as well. The vibration started right after my regear.

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I doubt the alignment would cause the vibration. If only a regear was done the alignment shouldn't have change. But Eddie has a good write up on here if you want to check. Easy to do.

When you say vibration. Is it a shimmy of the steering wheel back and forth in between a certain speed range.

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MSJKU11

Caught the Bug
I doubt the alignment would cause the vibration. If only a regear was done the alignment shouldn't have change. But Eddie has a good write up on here if you want to check. Easy to do.

When you say vibration. Is it a shimmy of the steering wheel back and forth in between a certain speed range.

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Yes, when I hit 45-50mph the steering wheel shakes very noticeably. Doesn't really move left to right.



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jeeeep

Hooked
if the vibration comes at 45mph and goes once you get past, check the easy stuff 1st

out of balance usually the most common - even the stick on weights fall off

track bar, make sure it's tight- they tend to loosen on the track bar bracket side but make sure both sides are tight 125 ft/lbs

tire - check the tire pressure to make sure it's equal all around

lug nuts, make sure they're tight 90-95 ft/lbs

other items if still an issue once all the above are checked, if you take it to a reputable alignment shop they will check these and let you know:

hub unit -

ball joints - the lower ball joint tends to wear out fast, if you replace one replace upper/lower on both sides.
 

MSJKU11

Caught the Bug
if the vibration comes at 45mph and goes once you get past, check the easy stuff 1st

out of balance usually the most common - even the stick on weights fall off

track bar, make sure it's tight- they tend to loosen on the track bar bracket side but make sure both sides are tight 125 ft/lbs

tire - check the tire pressure to make sure it's equal all around

lug nuts, make sure they're tight 90-95 ft/lbs

other items if still an issue once all the above are checked, if you take it to a reputable alignment shop they will check these and let you know:

hub unit -

ball joints - the lower ball joint tends to wear out fast, if you replace one replace upper/lower on both sides.
Thank you for this. I'll definitely check my balance this weekend at my local tire shop and hope that is the cause. If not then I'll check the joints and alignment

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WJCO

Meme King
If it started after a regear, remove the front driveshaft and see if it goes away. If it does, it could be the driveshaft but could also be the pinion bearing. I'm not going to bore you with a long story, but I went through something like this after a lift kit. Then when I did a regear, it fixed it. Basically when parts are at a certain angle for a long time and then that is changed, it can cause new noises and vibrations. Also see if your pinion has play at all. Also, how much lift do you have and what size gears did you go with?
 

MSJKU11

Caught the Bug
If it started after a regear, remove the front driveshaft and see if it goes away. If it does, it could be the driveshaft but could also be the pinion bearing. I'm not going to bore you with a long story, but I went through something like this after a lift kit. Then when I did a regear, it fixed it. Basically when parts are at a certain angle for a long time and then that is changed, it can cause new noises and vibrations. Also see if your pinion has play at all. Also, how much lift do you have and what size gears did you go with?
Okay, I'll try and remove the DS. I don't feel any play but one of the bolts that screw into the yoke had to be sheared off due to be rounded. I plan on replacing the yolk but haven't done so yet but I wouldn't think that would cause any issues at this point right? I have 3 inches of lift and went with 4.88 gears.



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jeeeep

Hooked
Okay, I'll try and remove the DS. I don't feel any play but one of the bolts that screw into the yoke had to be sheared off due to be rounded. I plan on replacing the yolk but haven't done so yet but I wouldn't think that would cause any issues at this point right? I have 3 inches of lift and went with 4.88 gears.



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make sure the other bolts are tight-I had all of the bolts on mine work loose. never felt loose when I would try to move the DS, I finally put wrench to everything I could think of and that's how I discovered they were loose.

I was getting more of a clunk and not a shimmy though.

also double check the caster angle, easy to do, post #4

https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/3861-Basic-Do-it-Yourself-Jeep-JK-Wrangler-Front-End-Alignment
 

MSJKU11

Caught the Bug
make sure the other bolts are tight-I had all of the bolts on mine work loose. never felt loose when I would try to move the DS, I finally put wrench to everything I could think of and that's how I discovered they were loose.

I was getting more of a clunk and not a shimmy though.

also double check the caster angle, easy to do, post #4

https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/3861-Basic-Do-it-Yourself-Jeep-JK-Wrangler-Front-End-Alignment
Turns out the bolts on my cv joint were a little loose, not sure why I didn't check these earlier when I checked the yoke. Tightened them up and the vibration is almost gone. Just a slight shimmy that only lasts a second or two then goes away. I also had to readjust my steering stabilizer, it apparently was hitting my trackbar bracket when turning to the right.

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jeeeep

Hooked
Turns out the bolts on my cv joint were a little loose, not sure why I didn't check these earlier when I checked the yoke. Tightened them up and the vibration is almost gone. Just a slight shimmy that only lasts a second or two then goes away. I also had to readjust my steering stabilizer, it apparently was hitting my trackbar bracket when turning to the right.

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good deal :thumb:

did you rotate the DS as you tightened them and check both ends of the DS front and rear?

Did you check the u-joints for damage? (assuming you have aftermarket DS)
 
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