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Thread: Help with Axles

  1. #1
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    Post Help with Axles

    Hi guys,

    I just got a V8 from Motech (L86 GenV with 8 speed transmission) in my 2012 JKUR and I am really getting concerned about axles/driveshafts upgrade.

    I am currently running an AEV JK350 package (4.5" lift, AEV front/rear bumpers, 37" tires). I am also using the stock Rubicon driveshafts and stock Rubicon Dana 44's with 4.88 Gears. This being said, I don't foresee myself upgrading to 40's for long time, mainly because I would have to change the front/rear bumpers, tire carrier, and possibly the suspension, which would cost a fortune.

    AEV sell V8 JKURs just like mine all day long and keep the stock Rubicon driveshafts and Dana 44's albeit with 4.56 gears. They claim that these jeeps are meant for over-landing and are extremely reliable as is. They also however offer the serious performance axle set from Dynatrac as an option (PR44/60).

    I happen to know that the balljoints and housing on the front Rubicon Dana 44 are weak and will need replacing at some point in time. I also know that the brakes do need to be upgraded when you have a 6,500 LBs jeep. And I also know that the factory driveshafts will eventually need to be upgraded as well. I am not so sure about how well the Rubicon axleshafts will hold with the 460 lb.ft of torque of the V8.

    This being said, when I add up all of the expenses involved in keeping the stock Rubicon 44's and strengthening them, I find myself being very close in cost to purchasing the serious performance axle set from Dynatrac and reselling my axles.

    But every time I call Dynatrac, the person I speak to steers me towards the PR60/60 set instead of the 44/60.
    This makes me question the strength of the 44/60 compared to my stock Rubicon setup. Ideally, I would like to get the serious performance package (PR44/60) and retain the factory 5x5 wheel pattern. That would save me a ton of money versus buying new wheels and the difference in price between the PR44/60 and the PR60/60.

    Now I totally understand that a full float 60 is going to be a lot stronger and safer than a semi-float 60. but you are looking at spending, at a minimum, 1.5x what you would spend on the PR44/60.

    In terms of areas that fail, how much is the PR44/60 stronger than the factory Rubicon 44? Can you spend your day doing burnouts, running moderate to hard trails, and use the Jeep as a daily driver without worrying about axle failure with the PR44/60 and 37's? Could you eventually increase the tire size to 40's and wheel carefully with it as well ?

  2. #2
    Old Timer fiend's Avatar
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    The 60 front will get you a larger ring and pinion, and larger axle shafts, vs a 44. If I were doubling horsepower and torque, as you have done, going 60 in the front and 60 or 80 in the rear seems like a no brainer.

  3. #3
    Addict jesse3638's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fiend View Post
    The 60 front will get you a larger ring and pinion, and larger axle shafts, vs a 44. If I were doubling horsepower and torque, as you have done, going 60 in the front and 60 or 80 in the rear seems like a no brainer.
    I'm with fiend, you spent the cash on the LS swap why skimp out on axles to support the new power. If you can't afford a 60/60 or 60/80 then save up until you can.

  4. #4
    Nothing but a Thing JK_Dave's Avatar
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    What type of driving do you do? If you never see rocks, then the 60/60 might be overkill.


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  5. #5
    Administrator wayoflife's Avatar
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    Being that you live in Nevada, it'd be criminal not to open up the throttle on your LS and bomb through the desert. That being said, I wouldn't feel comfortable doing that without my ProRock 60/80 under my Jeep.

  6. #6
    Living the WAYALIFE MTG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wayoflife View Post
    Being that you live in Nevada, it'd be criminal not to open up the throttle on your LS and bomb through the desert. That being said, I wouldn't feel comfortable doing that without my ProRock 60/80 under my Jeep.
    Guess I need a V8 now. I always do things backwards.


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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by JK_Dave View Post
    What type of driving do you do? If you never see rocks, then the 60/60 might be overkill.


    Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
    I do lots of highway driving and occasional moderate to hard trails with Jeep groups. The main reason I went with the AEV setup was the dual sport suspension which is great on and off road. Now I understand that I won't necessarily be able to tackle extreme stuff like guys with 40's and coilovers and rock crawling bumpers but I should be able to stay pretty close. I just don't want anything to brake if because of the torque of the V8 or if i step on the pedal a little more than I should.

    Now if I am going to spend a crazy amount of money on axles, I would much rather have it right the first time. but spending 1.5x more needs to be warranted. I also haven't driven a PR 60/60 V8 and I worry that the added weight might make it feel heavy and sluggish.

  8. #8
    Knows a Thing or Two Jkzinger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dlanor82 View Post
    I do lots of highway driving and occasional moderate to hard trails with Jeep groups. The main reason I went with the AEV setup was the dual sport suspension which is great on and off road. Now I understand that I won't necessarily be able to tackle extreme stuff like guys with 40's and coilovers and rock crawling bumpers but I should be able to stay pretty close. I just don't want anything to brake if because of the torque of the V8 or if i step on the pedal a little more than I should.

    Now if I am going to spend a crazy amount of money on axles, I would much rather have it right the first time. but spending 1.5x more needs to be warranted. I also haven't driven a PR 60/60 V8 and I worry that the added weight might make it feel heavy and sluggish.
    Not gonna matter with that motor! I just put 60s and 40s on and with my 3.8 it is awful!


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  9. #9
    Nothing but a Thing JK_Dave's Avatar
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    You know, I'd be skeptical of advice from someone trying to sell me something too, but I have heard several stories from guys on here where they've actually been sold down when they didn't need as much axle as they originally wanted by Dynatrac sales reps. I'd have to imagine, they're telling you to go with the 60/60 because others in your same situation are running that combo with no issues.

    If it were my money, I might actually go up to the XD60 rear just to get more ring gear size and pinion strength. As for your wheels, you can probably recoup some of the cost by selling them. If your main goal is to avoid breaks, that shouldn't be too high of a concern anyway.


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  10. #10
    Meme King WJCO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JK_Dave View Post
    You know, I'd be skeptical of advice from someone trying to sell me something too, but I have heard several stories from guys on here where they've actually been sold down when they didn't need as much axle as they originally wanted by Dynatrac sales reps. I'd have to imagine, they're telling you to go with the 60/60 because others in your same situation are running that combo with no issues.

    If it were my money, I might actually go up to the XD60 rear just to get more ring gear size and pinion strength. As for your wheels, you can probably recoup some of the cost by selling them. If your main goal is to avoid breaks, that shouldn't be too high of a concern anyway.


    Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
    That was my first thought when I read this thread as well. Dynatrac is very straight over the phone. If they suggesting a 60/60, I would take their advice. They tried to downsell me on a couple items when I did mine, they are good, honest people.
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