A little bit of DIY and a little bit of off the shelf!

So after a few years of spending money on the house, wife, and 5 kids for Christmas I was finally able to buy myself some Christmas gifts!

I picked up
ARD traction pack
Artec front axle armor
HD ball joints

All from northridge4x4

And from the local steel supply I picked up some DOM tube to sleeve the front axle.

Now I know what some of you will say, 'dont spend the money on upgrading a D30 nd just get a crate d44' well I respect the position I have to respectfully disagree. My D30 is straight (surprised as I run 37s) and the $$ spent was a lot less then a crate d44 and both of my alxes are now going to be upgraded! I am doing this; 1 because it is cheaper, 2 because it's more fun that way, and 3 in an attempt to de'mystify' upgrades to the front D30(both the sleeve and truss can be done to the D44 as well).

Alittle about me before I start getting into it. I am a journeyman Machinist and welder, I spent 8 years in the Marines as a machinist and have worked on every thing from guns to tanks to airplanes. I spent about three year after I got out working for an off-road company. I have since returned to the government, as a civil employee, to do Machinist and sheet metal work on airplanes as a depot level artisan.

Enough about me, on to the project.

Objectives: This post I am attempting to illustrate the complete upgrading of a factory D30 from my 2010 JKU Sport. I will begin from the point of the axle removed and disassembled, this is assuming that anyone doing this kind of work can and will be able to figure out that much.

Mission: utilizing standard mechanics tools (Craftsman for life!) and easily procured shop tools (think Harbor Freight), upgrade a front D30 in the home garage (luckily I have a 3 car). I will do my best to avoid ant 'professional' level equipment and tools because this is more of a proof of concept for the average home mechanic and fabricator.

End state: factory D30 will be upgraded with Artec 3011 axle armor kit, DIY sleeve (2.00 DOM tube .250 wall), ARB AIR LOCKER, 5.13 Ring and Pinion.


I will post pictures and updates as I get them done. As of today she (the axle) is out from under the Jeep and striped down from everything except the pinion and bumpstop extension. I have cleaned and measured the driver's side tube and will document the passenger side in my next update.

I hope this will be helpful to anyone on the fence about doing this.

I love your DIY spirit and I applaud you for getting after it. However, you're still going to have a tiny pinion gear when you run 5.13 gears in a Dana 30. Can't truss your way out of that. I say all this so those coming after will be aware of the risk. Will be following this though to see how it holds up when you wheel it.

The progress so far.

Ok, now that I had a minute to go take pictures. Here is the status thus far.

I measured each tube, from axle seal to end of tube driver's side 11 3/4 inches passenger side 27 1/2. Now I will need to allow space for the seals so I will cut the tube 1/4 inches short of those measurements. I did cheat a little for the install I had a piece of steel that could be used as a driver. I will add a picture of that later. I did go to the store yesterday and today for a few things to clean out the tubes. Pictures of the tube before and after and the tools also attached.

I purchased 3/8-16 all tread Rob (3ft)
Nuts
3/8 fender washer (1 1/2 in outside)
2 in wirewheel with 1/4in drive quik connect
From Lowe's

2 12in 1/4 drive bit driver extensions
From harbor freight

I had the impact driver and paint roller at home.

I first used the all thread and the large washers to remove the axle seals, mine were fine, but I am already here so it doesn't hurt to put in a new set!

Then after just a few passes of the wire wheel through each side the dirt and grit build up was cleaned out easily I then ran the paint roller down it attached to to all tread.

With the tubes cleaned my next step is to cut the tube and drill a few holes for Roset weld the tube in. The bore of the tube is 2.000 inch on my axle and the DOM in 2.000 obviously that means it's a press fit. What I will do to help make it smoother is after I cut to tube and prep it (grind a small bevel on each end) I will place it in the deep freezer for at least 24 hrs. I could do dry ice or liquid nitrogen both are accessable for me, but the point is to do this as a home garage mechanic would, so deep freezer it is! Could I turn down the tube for a slip fit? Sure, but this again is meant to be a strictly home project!

This is where I am as of today. Tomorrow I should have the tubes cut and prepped, the axle marked and drilled, and the Artec truss prepped for install.

GraniteCrystal said:

I love your DIY spirit and I applaud you for getting after it. However, you're still going to have a tiny pinion gear when you run 5.13 gears in a Dana 30. Can't truss your way out of that. I say all this so those coming after will be aware of the risk. Will be following this though to see how it holds up when you wheel it.

Click to expand...

GraniteCrystal, that was a consideration in my case. I am glad you mentioned that as I forgot it! I felt the risk, in my case, was worth it. I don't wheel hard, as much of my wheeling run into the 'overlander' category. I am also building up a 1964 M101A1 army trailer into a off-road camper. So I will bring that over to this forum when I start making progress on that next!

Sounds like you've got some good experience working with metal. This would be an awesome metal project to display at your local museum. As far as using it under the jeep, it has been tried and true that even a sleeved axle can still break the outer factory tube or the housing can still bend at the pumpkin even with sleeves. As far as a truss, housing can still break. But either way, sounds like you're having fun.

Familyof7 said:

Now I know what some of you will say, 'dont spend the money on upgrading a D30 nd just get a crate d44' well I respect the position I have to respectfully disagree.

Click to expand...

Actually, I would have said not to throw money at something that doesn't need it but hey, it is your money, your Jeep and clearly, you're a man with a plan.

Wayoflife I agree it 'doesnt need it's but it was more of a choice. I have had my jeep on 37s for about 5 years now and I know my wheeling style is a very conservative amount of skinny pedal. So either I am lucky or just not that rough on my Jeep. Now full disclosure, you won't see me doing hill climbs or finding the nastiest trails out there. And in all honesty I only went 37s because at the time they were free so who am I to complain! I just figured at this point I want to have some fun, I hate buying turn key parts mostly because living out here in southern AZ I see mall crawlers everywhere with 10k or more in running gear and nice shinny rims and such. And no disrespect to those who want a jeep like that, but that isn't me. My first jeep was a workout XJ, my wife and I spent a weekend going to the various pick-a-parts in PHX and pulled a d44 rear out of an 88 and a D35 of a grand Cherokee to use for donor parts for a disc convention. Now my JK has replaced my old XJ and now this is how my wife and kids and I enjoy the natural wonders of the Southwest. So can I live without truss and sleeves and such? Yes. Could I try and find a Rubicon 44 or save for a bolt up axle? Sure. But that looses half the fun of the Jeep! It's not just the wheeling it the wrenching it's the whole thing. Teaching the kids about fixing what they own then going out and enjoying it.

So in doing this thread I hope I can show people another option. I have heard soooooo many 37s on a D30 will break it, yet I have few real world stories of it happening. Not to discredit that, I get real nervous about wheeling hard. But it hasn't stopped the good times! So if someone can spring for the crate axle, but has the mechanical know how to be successful in some DIY and some more technical upgrades then they can be successful.

So allow me to add this disclaimer.

If you like to get into the skinny pedal and wheel hard, this is not the route for you. If you are a weekend warrior who enjoys moderate technical trails and doesn't believe in riding you said plays, this maybe a solution for you.

I personally would like to steer away from the trend the JK has brought a new J.E.E.P couldn't stand for just empty every pocket! This can be a fun and affordable family adventure!

Sorry I get to rambling on then I loose track LOL!

Hats off to your Tenacity.... (would love to see you wheel the shit out of it when you're done though) :thumb: Welcome to Wayalife!

If it’s been working fine for 5 years what’s the point? I know you said half the fun is the wrenching but surely there is some other fab projects that would provide an actual benefit


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

I have heard soooooo many 37s on a D30 will break it, yet I have few real world stories of it happening.

Click to expand...

Some of us don't have to rely on stories we've heard. Some of us can just go off of what we've seen.

I get real nervous about wheeling hard. But it hasn't stopped the good times!

Click to expand...

No offense intended here but if you've had your Jeep on 37s for 5 years and your factory Dana 30 is still straight, you've never broken an axle shaft and have never broken a ring and pinion - you have never wheeled it hard. And really, there's nothing wrong with that but clearly, doing all this to your front axle IS a complete waste of time and money. At least, in my opinion anyway.

It sounds like the OP is a tinkerer who likes a project. This particular project seems pointless from a functional perspective, but if he has fun doing it, great.

I have seen a d30 axle break just on 35’s and they were “light” on the throttle as well. Sleeving it wouldn’t have helped either. That jeep wasn’t wheeled a lot either, just street driven mainly. Sadly I’m not friends with the people anymore to grab pics cause they choose not to associate with me anymore lol oh well. Have fun

Short side sleeve in

Well got the short side in.

Alittle bit of persuading and it went in.

I did cheat and make a tool to help the installation, let it sit in the freezer overnight. It still had a together fit, I am sure mostly because of the burs left from the drilling, it's difficult at best to debur a hole on the inside of a long tube without some sort of specialty tool or reamer. A little PB blaster and a can of man and it went in, took maybe an hour. long side will be a bigger pain, and I will be getting a bigger hammer for it.

I am looking forward to completing this project so that as my needs have changed, i.e. family size and wheeling objectives, I will be more confident and comfortable doing more agressive wheeling.

I appreciate everyone's input! This has been fun thus far.