A few electrical questions

aermid

aermid

New member
I really don’t want to melt anything, and please excuse my simple diagram/possibly bad questions. I’ve wired some simple stuff to my sPOD that goes directly to the battery, but I’ve never ran anything to the fuse box.

I’ve added heated seats, that have a 6.5amp draw each. They came with their own 10amp fuse, which I’ve removed so I could run the wires through the firewall. Originally my plan was to now join those two wires together, and then have a 3rd single line run to the M8 “FT Heated Seats” 20amp fuse slot in the fuse box.

The manufacturer appears to be using 16 gauge wire on the other side of the 10 amp fuse tap they supplied. I was going to run 14 gauge from the joined section to the fuse box and use a fuse tap for the 20A slot.

I have a sport, and I do not have factory heated seats installed, but there’s an existing 20A in the fuse for the M8 “FT Heated Seats” slot that the factory has there.

So here are my questions:

1. Should I use 12 gauge between the fuse tap and joined wires instead?
2. Should I put the 10A fuse they provided back into the circuit, and join them closer to the fuse box as 1 line? Is that overkill?
3. Can the fuse tap have a 20A on the top and bottom? I’ve read some places that says use a lower fuse than the original. My thoughts here are, isn’t it a different circuit and should be okay running the same?

Here is what I’m talking about drawn up with the provided fuse tap

Image1516496869.099624.jpg

Thanks very much


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WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
Using a thicker "overkill" wire in electrical isn't a bad idea, however, it's not always necessary. I would honestly stick with the aftermarket fuse that the parts supplier provided.
 
aermid

aermid

New member
WJCO said:
Using a thicker "overkill" wire in electrical isn't a bad idea, however, it's not always necessary. I would honestly stick with the aftermarket fuse that the parts supplier provided.
Click to expand...

So you think add the 10A back in and then run them closer to the fuse box before joining them?

Thanks


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WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
aermid said:
So you think add the 10A back in and then run them closer to the fuse box before joining them?

Thanks


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Click to expand...

I would say run them as close as you can before joining them, however, how often do you really think you'll use both heaters at once?

Honestly my jeep has factory heaters and even when we drive, I turn mine off before my wife. In her jeep, we went aftermarket and we only installed one on her seat, and when I'm riding passenger, it's no big deal to me that the passenger seat isn't heated.
 
aermid

aermid

New member
WJCO said:
I would say run them as close as you can before joining them, however, how often do you really think you'll use both heaters at once?

Honestly my jeep has factory heaters and even when we drive, I turn mine off before my wife. In her jeep, we went aftermarket and we only installed one on her seat, and when I'm riding passenger, it's no big deal to me that the passenger seat isn't heated.
Click to expand...

Not super often; winter time wheeling when we have the doors off is about the only time I see us using both extensively. The heater in this thing is a boss.

I will do that then; add the 10A back in and join them closer to the fuse box

Thanks much.


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WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
aermid said:
Not super often; winter time wheeling when we have the doors off is about the only time I see us using both extensively. The heater in this thing is a boss.

I will do that then; add the 10A back in and join them closer to the fuse box

Thanks much.


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Click to expand...

Might as well go with the 12G wire too just to be safe. Once you're done, turn on both seats for 30 minutes or so just to see what happens. If amp draw is too high, it will cost you a buck or so for a new 10A fuse and then you'll know you need to modify the circuit.
 
aermid

aermid

New member
WJCO said:
Might as well go with the 12G wire too just to be safe. Once you're done, turn on both seats for 30 minutes or so just to see what happens. If amp draw is too high, it will cost you a buck or so for a new 10A fuse and then you'll know you need to modify the circuit.
Click to expand...

Good point and suggestion.


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M

mijku

Member
Fuse m8 may say heated seats but did you check to see if the power output is controlled by a relay? You may want to check for voltage at the pin in the connector with key on before you get everything wired in. If there is a relay you will need to control the coil input to get it to power your high current output.

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aermid

aermid

New member
mijku said:
Fuse m8 may say heated seats but did you check to see if the power output is controlled by a relay? You may want to check for voltage at the pin in the connector with key on before you get everything wired in. If there is a relay you will need to control the coil input to get it to power your high current output.

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Click to expand...

I unplugged the 20A fuse and checked that the slot was reading 12V


I’m not sure what you mean by coil input; can you explain please?

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aermid

aermid

New member
I’ve spent a good number of hours reading on this stuff all this week, and I’ve instead to just say screw it. I have the slots so just gonna put 10A fuses on and run 2 lines instead of joining them. Thanks all for the considerations.


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