2013 JK Fluctuating Heat

DeJkUnlimited

Caught the Bug
Back around Thanksgiving, I purchased a 2013 JK with approximately 71k on it. My oldest will be getting his license this summer and as a family we’ve really been enjoying the Jeep ownership experience. I’ve had my radar up for a nice used 2dr for a little while and at one of my accounts, I was offered a deal too good to pass up. Sport with hardtop, auto, power locks and windows. Only two things wrong with it. Little to no heat, and standing water in the rear storage area behind the seat. No concern about the water at all. And the heat I’d have time to figure out since it isn’t anyone’s current DD. Well a couple months later after reading up on known issues and finding time here and there to try things before diving into a heater core replacement here is what I’ve come up with. First thing I noticed was the heat would get lukewarm but for only minutes at a time. It would consistently go back and forth between lukewarm and cool with no drastic difference between passenger and driver side vents. Two items came up constantly online, blend door actuator and clogged/partially clogged heater core. The blend door actuator was inexpensive and easy enough to try first. I installed a new one a while back which didn’t seem to make a difference at all. A couple weeks after that I disconnected the heater hoses and hooked up a garden hose to try and backflush the core which also didn’t seem to work at all either. At this point, I’m thinking I’m gonna have to set aside some $ for a heater core replacement. I ordered one off of eBay inexpensively enough. But I was going back and forth between having a dealer do it and trying the shortcut where you cut part of the dash reinforcement behind the glove box which allows the heater core to come out in 30-40 mins. In a last ditch effort to avoid heater core replacement, I drained the radiator, installed Prestone flush and clean solution and reversed the heater hoses (with a 5/8” brass hose coupler and 2” length of hose). Fired up the engine and bingo, much improved heat and I mean night and day difference. I figured the hot fluid and closed system pressure busted up whatever was going on inside the heater core. Well yesterday I did a complete cooling system flush and refill with distilled water and MOPAR concentrate OAT coolant. I also switched the heater hoses back while the system was drained. After starting the engine and bring it back up to operating temperature, the heater still gets really hot like before but the temperature fluctuates quite a bit with RPMs. It’s fairly cool at idle but once I raise the RPMs to 1500 or more it’s gets noticeably hot all across the dash......so my question after this long winded post is what next? The only thing RPM related is the water pump so should I replace that? The only other thing I changed during the complete flush was putting the heater hoses back to the way they were. There are metal supply and return lines that run from the front of the engine over the right head and to the heater hoses at the fire wall. Perhaps one of the lines is partially clogged or restricted? I’m at a bit of a loss as to what to do next. But I’m leaning towards a water pump. Thoughts?
 
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WJCO

Meme King
Sure sounds like a water pump, however check belt tension first to make sure there is no issue there. Also, you can get a laser temp gun for cheap to check various locations in the cooling system just to see if you have a restriction.
 

DeJkUnlimited

Caught the Bug
^ Thanks for the suggestion, I suppose the belt could have been slipping too since water and/or coolant was definitely in the pulley area. I also put a thermostat in it the other day during the flush since it was another inexpensive item that would need replaced at some point. I’ve been driving it all morning with no fluctuations or symptoms so I’ll wait and see before doing anything drastic or expensive.
 

DeJkUnlimited

Caught the Bug
Back to square one, the heat is back to intermittent and now the radiator has developed a leak in the upper driver side corner, engine compartment side. A tech at the Jeep dealer I service, said (before the rad leak) that I should put a heater core in it as well. He said my symptoms were more indicative of a flow issue and it’s probably not the water pump. Since I have to replace the radiator I’m also putting all new hoses and a belt on and be done with it. I have a great relationship with the GM at the dealer also. The tech said with the GM’s approval he would discharge the A/C for me so I can do a proper heater core replacement, if I want to avoid the “shortcut.” :rolleyes2:
 

Jacalore

New member
Back to square one, the heat is back to intermittent and now the radiator has developed a leak in the upper driver side corner, engine compartment side. A tech at the Jeep dealer I service, said (before the rad leak) that I should put a heater core in it as well. He said my symptoms were more indicative of a flow issue and it’s probably not the water pump. Since I have to replace the radiator I’m also putting all new hoses and a belt on and be done with it. I have a great relationship with the GM at the dealer also. The tech said with the GM’s approval he would discharge the A/C for me so I can do a proper heater core replacement, if I want to avoid the “shortcut.” :rolleyes2:

I had the same symptom... was ready to back flush the heater, when I decided to check the radiator cap. Son of a gun, it was defective. $3.50 fix, all is good again.
 

We-B-Jeep-N

New member
We experienced the exact issues it’s a 2013. We replaced the radiator and heater core. We found that someone at some point mixed coolants and caused the issue. Mixing the two will cause coagulation. Here is the inside of the heater core. Radiator looked the same. This was after the back flush and cleaner went through. IMG_0355.jpg IMG_0356.jpg IMG_0357.jpg


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We-B-Jeep-N

New member
I suspect mine looks similar. Radiator seems simple enough, not looking forward to the heater core at all.

To do it properly you have to remove the entire dashboard. Took us about 4 hrs to get it out. The hardest part was having to remove the battery tray and disconnecting the entire wire harness. The cab harness runs through the firewall and under the battery tray.


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