Griffin Attenuator 37s?

17xJKU

17xJKU

New member
Sorry if it's been covered, but all I can find is it's amazing, blah, blah, but can't seem to find if its bad for wheeling, and for 37s? I have Metalcloak GC 3.5 with 37s and need to flip my drag link. My jeep feels like crap driving. May be investing in long arms here soon if the flip don't help. Also have raised track bar bracket, but track bar is in stock location right now. Anywho.. inputs on the attenuator? Thanks everyone in advance.
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
17xJKU said:
Sorry if it's been covered, but all I can find is it's amazing, blah, blah, but can't seem to find if its bad for wheeling, and for 37s? I have Metalcloak GC 3.5 with 37s and need to flip my drag link. My jeep feels like crap driving. May be investing in long arms here soon if the flip don't help. Also have raised track bar bracket, but track bar is in stock location right now. Anywho.. inputs on the attenuator? Thanks everyone in advance.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't take one if it were free. Steer Smarts is a shit company. Lots to read here: https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/34385-STEER-SMARTS-has-been-Removed-from-WAYALIFE
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
17xJKU said:
I'm going to need a few hrs to read through all of that. Lol. I was considering the no drill flip with attenuator, but seems like I should stay away just from the comments so far.
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Summary: The rep for Steer Smarts tried advertising here without contacting admin which violates the rules. He was asked nicely not to. He kept doing it. Then he played dumb like he didn't know what was wrong with what he was doing. He's a scumbag.
 
zimm

zimm

Caught the Bug
How about forget the attenuator and let us help you fix your steering?

What's your castor at? Get it to 5 degrees, drag link flip, track bar should be parallel to the drag link (line drawn end to end, not the bars themselves). you should be one handed at 70mph.

Who cares about a non-drill? $11 drill bit from amazon and some cutting oil, 15 minutes, done.
 
QuicksilverJK

QuicksilverJK

Caught the Bug
I agree you need to address your steering properly instead of looking for Extra parts to hide the problem. I run the same lift as you on 37-13.50s and feel very confident at speeds that I shouldn't. Living in Nevada I catch myself often at 90+ MPH.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
17xJKU said:
I'm going to need a few hrs to read through all of that. Lol. I was considering the no drill flip with attenuator, but seems like I should stay away just from the comments so far.
Click to expand...

look at the cost of steersmart replacement parts...I speak from experience and can tell you that their stuff doesn't last any longer than other manufacturer's and replacement parts are expensive.

I bought it before the shitty tactics they pulled on here and I can tell you their customer service reflects the same attitude in the post.

I removed their drag link 2weeks ago after multiple grease boot failures on the pitman arm side and the joint went to shit within 2 years...80% DD

The cost to replace the pitman arm end --- $135 +shipping.

I replaced the drag link with a Currie Correctlync --- $240 ..cost to replace the drag link end on a Currie - $75

there are better less expensive options out there
 
17xJKU

17xJKU

New member
zimm said:
How about forget the attenuator and let us help you fix your steering?

What's your castor at? Get it to 5 degrees, drag link flip, track bar should be parallel to the drag link (line drawn end to end, not the bars themselves). you should be one handed at 70mph.

Who cares about a non-drill? $11 drill bit from amazon and some cutting oil, 15 minutes, done.
Click to expand...

Well the problem is, I do not have level garage floor. I moved to KY and bought a place with a metal pool barn from a 90 year old guy who looks like he poured the floors in himself... very uneven and not level or the same anywhere. I downloaded an angle finder app. On top left near yet ball joint I was getting 5.4, and on right top 5.8. But if I checked the bottom left of the C of my pr44, I'm getting about 4.1, and right side 6. I was an alignment tech before my new career, and understand alignments, but this feels bad driving. I have a drill bit already, but was thinking of getting ranch high steer knuckles or drilling. When I put my control arms in at MC's specs, I had closer to 9 degree caster. It drove better, but I centered the axles front and rear under there jeep, and brought the rear closer. It was set ball almost an inch from factory and hitting my bumper. Pinion angle in rear was 2.5 lower than drive shaft.
 
17xJKU

17xJKU

New member
jeeeep said:
look at the cost of steersmart replacement parts...I speak from experience and can tell you that their stuff doesn't last any longer than other manufacturer's and replacement parts are expensive.

I bought it before the shitty tactics they pulled on here and I can tell you their customer service reflects the same attitude in the post.

I removed their drag link 2weeks ago after multiple grease boot failures on the pitman arm side and the joint went to shit within 2 years...80% DD

The cost to replace the pitman arm end --- $135 +shipping.

I replaced the drag link with a Currie Correctlync --- $240 ..cost to replace the drag link end on a Currie - $75

there are better less expensive options out there
Click to expand...

I was considering metalcloak or synergy drag link. And thoughts? Also considering synergy or evo long arm upgrade kit. Keep MC springs and track bars, just get rid of the mid arms.
 
17xJKU

17xJKU

New member
QuicksilverJK said:
I agree you need to address your steering properly instead of looking for Extra parts to hide the problem. I run the same lift as you on 37-13.50s and feel very confident at speeds that I shouldn't. Living in Nevada I catch myself often at 90+ MPH.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Do you every wish you went long arm? I want to upgrade. And I assume you have dl flip and raised track bar?
 
17xJKU

17xJKU

New member
QuicksilverJK said:
I agree you need to address your steering properly instead of looking for Extra parts to hide the problem. I run the same lift as you on 37-13.50s and feel very confident at speeds that I shouldn't. Living in Nevada I catch myself often at 90+ MPH.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Off topic, but how do you like the genright carrier? Looked at your build. I'm debating between GR aluminium or DV8 body mount. Dv8 $580 or GR $1200. Big price difference but both have pros and cons.
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
17xJKU said:
On top left near yet ball joint I was getting 5.4, and on right top 5.8. But if I checked the bottom left of the C of my pr44, I'm getting about 4.1, and right side 6. I was an alignment tech before my new career, and understand alignments, but this feels bad driving. I have a drill bit already, but was thinking of getting ranch high steer knuckles or drilling. When I put my control arms in at MC's specs, I had closer to 9 degree caster. It drove better, but I centered the axles front and rear under there jeep, and brought the rear closer. It was set ball almost an inch from factory and hitting my bumper. Pinion angle in rear was 2.5 lower than drive shaft.
Click to expand...

If you purchased a PR44 with the additional caster built in, you should be around 6 to 6.5 for your caster reading.

As far as a drag link flip, it may benefit your bumpsteer, but I don't think that will help with your floating feeling. Also, what tire pressure are you running?
 
QuicksilverJK

QuicksilverJK

Caught the Bug
17xJKU said:
Do you every wish you went long arm? I want to upgrade. And I assume you have dl flip and raised track bar?
Click to expand...

I honestly don't plan on spending the money on long arms because I am very happy with how mine handles. I have driven long arm and coil over setup that didn't feel all that great to me. At least not a big enough difference to justify the cost to me. And yes I am running DL flip, PR44 with raised track bar and have my caster dialed in.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
17xJKU

17xJKU

New member
WJCO said:
If you purchased a PR44 with the additional caster built in, you should be around 6 to 6.5 for your caster reading.

As far as a drag link flip, it may benefit your bumpsteer, but I don't think that will help with your floating feeling. Also, what tire pressure are you running?
Click to expand...

Started out 35, now I'm around 30 psi. They are Kanati Trail Hogs 37/15.50/17. E load range
 
HighwayTrout

HighwayTrout

Hooked
Selling ketchup popsicles to ladies wearing white gloves. It’s anyone’s guess how this company is still around. All about marketing and making up a non issue.
 
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