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Thread: Negative camber

  1. #21
    Resident Smartass OverlanderJK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glen1978 View Post
    Your camber is pretty high as well. Spec is like 4.2 or somewhere around there.
    You can’t adjust camber.


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  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by A.J. View Post
    The camber isn't really all that bad. Caster has a .4 deg split which could contribute to your pull. I agree the adjustable parts can make the alignment guy look good on the print out, but tend to "adjust" themselves off road and usually cause more problems. I would just run it and rotate often. Every 3-5000 miles including the spare tire WAYALIFE mobile app
    Thanks, The mechanic may have blown it out of proportion, he made it seem like it was going to devastate the axles and tires over time. My big problem here is that I just bought this used Rubicon from a dealership. It doesn't pull, no wobbles, drives great, but I just wanted to get it checked out and have a pre-trail torque on the suspension. Turns out I should not have trusted the dealership to have done any inspection!

  3. #23
    Old Timer fiend's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OverlanderJK View Post
    You can’t adjust camber.


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    Actually you can. IMG_1792.jpg


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  4. #24
    Knows a Thing or Two A.J.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fiend View Post
    Actually you can. IMG_1792.jpg


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    Compression shims do exist. I hate them but they do exist.


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  5. #25
    Old Timer fiend's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by A.J. View Post
    Compression shims do exist. I hate them but they do exist.


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    Why do you hate them? I understand it’s preferable to have a straight axle housing, but for someone with $25 and not $1000, what’s wrong with the shims?


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  6. #26
    Nothing but a Thing jdofmemi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fiend View Post
    Why do you hate them? I understand it’s preferable to have a straight axle housing, but for someone with $25 and not $1000, what’s wrong with the shims?


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    I'm curious as well, why these would be a bad idea. It seems like a way to stretch the life of a housing while saving money for better axles

    There is also 1 degree offset ball joints, but I'm not sure about those. I have heard good and bad reviews. One shop I know pushes them, and claims good results.

  7. #27
    Nothing but a Thing QuicksilverJK's Avatar
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    I have seen the offset ball joints, but never seen the shims before. Never seen them used in an off-road application, but have heard of good results from a buddy that is a steering and suspension specialist.
    Obviously having a straight, non bent axle would be the better option though.


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  8. #28
    Knows a Thing or Two A.J.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fiend View Post
    Why do you hate them? I understand it’s preferable to have a straight axle housing, but for someone with $25 and not $1000, what’s wrong with the shims?


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    I have used them on the rear of front wheel drive cars some. They are a pain in the ass to do because you have to remove the wheel,caliper, hub bolts, axle nut etc. etc. to install and every time you want to make an adjustment. Not to mention you no longer have a flat flush mating surface so you should re torque the hub bolts after awhile too. If you have to use them I wouldn't go more that .50 deg. Mostly just a time consuming PITA for not much gain in my opinion.


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  9. #29
    Resident Smartass OverlanderJK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fiend View Post
    Actually you can. IMG_1792.jpg


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    Well technically that would be changing it and not adjusting it.


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    -Warn VR8
    -EVO Armor/Bumpers

    2012 Billet Silver JKUR
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    -Dynatrac PR60/PR80
    -EVO High Clearance Long Arm
    -Nitto 40” Trail grapplers
    -KMC Machetes
    -JE Reel 1410/1350 Driveshafts
    -Warn CTI 9.5
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  10. #30
    Old Timer fiend's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OverlanderJK View Post
    Well technically that would be changing it and not adjusting it.


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    Sound like a lawyer.


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