GFrench 1976 CJ5 Restoration

gfrench

Member
I now have the body off my CJ5 rebuild project and have a question on the suspension and transfer case position.

028.jpg


Not being real familiar with the set up I have here.... I see there are shackles on the front and rear Leaf springs- measures 3 " from center of bottom bolt to center of top bolt. What would be considered stock height? 3"?

008.jpg

010.jpg

Also the skid plate/transfer case has been dropped 1 1/2" does this make sense and appropriate? want to put in all new bushings in the leafs and a better shims for the skid plate.

004.jpg

Just want to know if this all sounds right and the way it should be. I was wondering why the engine had a definite tilt upward and now see with the transfer case lowered 1 1/2" would explain it.

So with this set up guessing I should leave the skid plate/transer case lowered as is?

006.jpg

Thanks for any help and or direction here- appreciate it,

No bushings left in those leaf springs so what a difference that will make once all back together right.

 
Last edited:

gfrench

Member
Seeing this as well-

"stock is 3" and considered stock height.
A half inch lift will be a 4" shackle, a 1" lift will be 5" long."

my two front and two rear are 3" center to center of bolts... so does this truly mean I have stock set up here?

If so wonder why the skid/transfer plate was lowered?
 

weck

New member
If you are keeping everything stock you do not need spacers. they are to correct drive line angles. If you have stock leaf springs and stock shackles they are unneeded.
 

gfrench

Member
If you are keeping everything stock you do not need spacers. they are to correct drive line angles. If you have stock leaf springs and stock shackles they are unneeded.

thats good- really appreciate the response...

since my current shackles are 3" from center to center of both bolts... it appears that is stock. if someone can confirm.

If stock will remove spacers in skid plate and bolt back up to frame. Thanks
 
Last edited:

98XJ06LJ

New member
Just because the hangers appear to be stock does not mean the leaf springs are. Judging by the picture it looks like they dropped the transfer case because the drive line angle was probably causing u-joint failure.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

wjtstudios

Hooked
^^^^This.

This springs are lifted springs. The shackles look like stock size. The lifted springs at some point made the rear drive shaft fail or have a lot of vibration so the previous owner rotated The Whole drive line to attempt to correct it. I’m not sure what that did to the motor mounts but I would look into replacing them as well.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

gfrench

Member
Just because the hangers appear to be stock does not mean the leaf springs are. Judging by the picture it looks like they dropped the transfer case because the drive line angle was probably causing u-joint failure.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using WAYALIFE mobile app


Thanks for the reply...

yeah thinking the same thing and that was my question if the stock shackles are used with a lift type leaf spring... appears so
 

gfrench

Member
^^^^This.

This springs are lifted springs. The shackles look like stock size. The lifted springs at some point made the rear drive shaft fail or have a lot of vibration so the previous owner rotated The Whole drive line to attempt to correct it. I’m not sure what that did to the motor mounts but I would look into replacing them as well.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app


Thanks for confirming the lift Springs that are on there... Yeah will be replacing motor mounts for sure. Appreciate all of the info.


037.jpg

030.jpg
036.jpg
 

gfrench

Member
Looking at my 258, to top of the block is almost level. There is a bit lean towards the firewall by its practically flat.




Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

Do you have your Skid plate/ trans case lowered like mine- about 1 1/2 inches?

Here is the angle of my engine-

015.jpg

Engine mount- Will be installing new mounts for sure!

022.jpg

Does my drive shaft and differential look like a normal set up?

018.jpg

019.jpg

Sorry for all the questions just trying to learn as I go here and to make sure I have it right before I get to the new body parts. Thanks for all the help here.


 

gfrench

Member
Been doing some research and found this...

images.png

Is this truly the right way to measure the actual lift on my Jeep?
 

gfrench

Member
Started the tear down on my 76 CJ5 and now noticing what appears to be the rear axle has been turned upside down?

019.jpg

Why would someone do this? What wast the Purpose of this?

Any issue with this set up.

021.jpg

Drove the Jeep prior to tear down and seems to roll nice...
 

jdofmemi

Active Member
I'm guessing, but it looks to me like someone did a spring over lift on it. The different angle on the top pad would point the pinion up towards the transfer case.
 

98XJ06LJ

New member
I'm guessing, but it looks to me like someone did a spring over lift on it. The different angle on the top pad would point the pinion up towards the transfer case.


Completely agree. Upper spring perch is not stock. It was definitely added and Jeep at some point had spring over lift. Unless someone swapped the rear diff in from another Jeep. Does the front diff also have top mount spring perches?

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

gfrench

Member
Completely agree. Upper spring perch is not stock. It was definitely added and Jeep at some point had spring over lift. Unless someone swapped the rear diff in from another Jeep. Does the front diff also have top mount spring perches?

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using WAYALIFE mobile app


Yep- agree as well- No perches added to the front diff... so who knows what was going on..

012.jpg

If the true way of measuring lift is with the earlier pic i posted about measuring from the top of axle to bottom of line across top of leaf spring... then that would only put my jeep at 2 1/2" lift so would be no need to lower the Skid Plate/Transfer case an 1 1/2" right?


186.jpg
 
Last edited:

jdofmemi

Active Member
Your rear driveshaft angle looks pretty severe already. If you raise it back up, then picture it at full droop, it may bind the U joints.
Worst case the slip yoke could either come apart, or not have enough engagement which could lead to stripped splines
 

gfrench

Member
Your rear driveshaft angle looks pretty severe already. If you raise it back up, then picture it at full droop, it may bind the U joints.
Worst case the slip yoke could either come apart, or not have enough engagement which could lead to stripped splines

Appreciate the information/advice here... will leave it lowered as is. Other then the engine being tilted not seeing any other possible issues.

013.jpg

011.jpg
 
Last edited:

gfrench

Member
Sorry for my delayed response here...

Yeah project is moving along now. Have the rolling chassis pretty much all set up and safe now.



New Rear Cross Member- replaced Rear End due to original had some bad rust inside- New BDS Suspension/Shocks - New Skid plate/brace- new motor and trans mounts- replace two body mounts- New front bumper.




Have new parts starting to roll in now- Gas Tank- Sender unit- All new Fuel and Brake lines-

Now in the process of scrapping. wire wheeling to clean up the frame to prep for some Satin Black KBS coating.


Was pretty much set on painting the jeep Red... but then i saw a pic of this beauty with the tan interior and seriously considering white now for sure.






Should be ready to order the new Tub- Hood- Fenders- Winsheild Frame in the next 30 to 60 days from Willy's-Overland.

Going to be a brand new jeep sort of- everything touch- cleaned- painted - replace except for Engine- Transmission and Drive shaft... all is great shape.
 
Top Bottom