Help me spend my money (smartly)

phillypete

New member
I have saved up about $12k to “invest” in my ‘13 JKU and I’d appreciate the Wayalife communities input in getting the best value for my dollars.

So a brief description of my JK:
- MOPAR Stage 3” Lift Kit
- 35” Toyo MT (worn out)
- Warn VR10
- Poison Spyder Bumpers & Rails
- Stock Axles
- 3.21 Gears

Here’s my list for this round of upgrades:
- Dynatrac Trail Leader Package
- PR44 Front with ARB and 5.13 Gears
- Rear ARB, Gears and 35 spline shafts
- 1350 front drive shaft
- ARB Twin Compressor w/engine mount
- Cooper STT Pro 37s
- ATX Chambers


The beadlocks are my main point of question. Would money be better served dropping them off the list and going with the 44/60 axle package?

This is my daily driver. I commute 30 minute each way mostly highway at 70mph. Offroading usually consists of monthly runs at the local ORV Park. Now that I’m a Midwest resident I plan on making some trips to the desert and mountains in the near future. That being said I wouldn’t consider myself one to push my jeep too hard. I tend to stick to easier trails, but I want a vehicle capible of handling a difficult situation if the need arises.
 

boardsurfer

Active Member
I would put the money toward axles over beadlocks, personally. They are far more important in the grand scheme of things.
 

benatc1

Hooked
Good question, I’d say you can certainly get by without the beadlocks and put the money elsewhere for now. You’ll have to ask yourself if a 44/60 combo is really needed for what you plan to do, if it is great, but the trail leader package goes a long way with 37s. I wouldn’t waste your money on a semi float rear 60 either. Maybe you can get any other upgrades you’ve been wanting or save the money now for other upgrades down the road.


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WJCO

Meme King
I haven't done Moab, however, around here in Colorado, I haven't experienced any issues with the Cooper STT Pros on the rocks. They grab well, even unlocked. I actually bumped my PSI from 15 up to 20 just because I haven't found a need to be down that low with these tires when I've compared the two pressures. If I were in your shoes with the decision, I would skip the beadlocks and spend the money elsewhere myself.
 
J

JKDream

Guest
I'd probably use that money for one of Dynatracs 60/60 packages honestly, and then grab some tires.
Even if you stick with 37's, not blowing up unit bearings so frequently is nice. I somewhat regret my PR44 for that reason.
The axle is bombproof, but the shit unit bearings cause all kinds of problems. Locking hubs are nice too.
You should probably think about some kind of cylinder assist before beadlocks.
Lockers aren't overly helpful if you can't steer to hold a line on anything.
 

TrainWreck618

Caught the Bug
Depending how much your factory rear end is going to cost to re-gear and set up, the 44/60 package might be a good idea. It comes setup and ready to go, and you could install both axles in your driveway. The only issue is the rear is semi-float, but it’s still a stronger axle housing than what you have currently. Are you having someone else do the work?


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phillypete

New member
I'd probably use that money for one of Dynatracs 60/60 packages honestly, and then grab some tires.
Even if you stick with 37's, not blowing up unit bearings so frequently is nice. I somewhat regret my PR44 for that reason.
The axle is bombproof, but the shit unit bearings cause all kinds of problems. Locking hubs are nice too.
You should probably think about some kind of cylinder assist before beadlocks.
Lockers aren't overly helpful if you can't steer to hold a line on anything.

60/60 puts me well north of my budget, and also would then need new wheels.

I’ve heard from others that steering assist is not all that needed with anything less than 40s.
 

phillypete

New member
Depending how much your factory rear end is going to cost to re-gear and set up, the 44/60 package might be a good idea. It comes setup and ready to go, and you could install both axles in your driveway. The only issue is the rear is semi-float, but it’s still a stronger axle housing than what you have currently. Are you having someone else do the work?


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I will have a shop setup the rear locker and gearing. I plan to do the front axle swap myself. In my budget I set aside $300 for a single axle regear. That number was just a guess.
 

TrainWreck618

Caught the Bug
I will have a shop setup the rear locker and gearing. I plan to do the front axle swap myself. In my budget I set aside $300 for a single axle regear. That number was just a guess.

You might want to get a quote. They will probably want you to buy the parts through them, and $300 would be an amazing price. Around here guys want around $1000 an axle...


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fiend

Caught the Bug
Based on how you described your needs, I would not bother with a 60 in the rear or front. The SF 60 is pointless unless you really want 5.38s for some reason. The 60/60 package is out of your budget and not necessary for your needs. The PR44 should be sufficient. Yes you will have to replace unit bearings periodically, but the part is cheap and easy to replace. I think your original plan is a good one. As for beadlocks, I like them for two reasons. First, you can air down lower with less risk of rolling a bead. Many people never air down below 15 so this benefit may be meaningless to you. The second benefit is that the ring will take the abuse and get chewed up and, most importantly, you know that going in and maybe take pride in every scratch and gouge on your rings. If you don’t have beadlocks but instead have “nice” aftermarket wheels, each scratch and gouge will suck because your nice wheels will look like crap.
 
J

JKDream

Guest
60/60 puts me well north of my budget, and also would then need new wheels.

I’ve heard from others that steering assist is not all that needed with anything less than 40s.

I haven't checked the packages in awhile, I remember when they offered them originally I think it was 10k for the 60/60 combo. Just food for thought however. That's the route I would go if I was doing it over again, I have the trail leader package now.

I personally don't agree with the cylinder assist not being needed under 40s. I'm on 37s, and prior to having it I couldn't turn at all aired down unless I had momentum. This resulted in a lot of broken shit, steering box included. Maybe if it's a pavement princess, but any rock is going to manhandle your steering on 37s without some type of upgrade.

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Ddays

Hooked
My :twocents:

- Dynatrac Trail Leader Package
- PR44 Front with ARB and 5.13 Gears
- Rear ARB, Gears and 35 spline shafts
- 1350 front drive shaft
- ARB Twin Compressor w/engine mount
- Cooper STT Pro 37s
Add PSC hydro or PSC HD Box

I'd skip the PR60 rear unless you're gonna go FF, but then you have to add wheels back in there - $$. If I had it to do over again I would have skipped on the PR60 SF rear I did. With the SF you're still stuck with axle flanges on a heavy ass JKU and I've bent two of the goddam things in 4 years. Start adding all the armor, EVO carrier, heavy spare, etc, etc and these things can get porky fast - mine is 6100# with me and all the shit I carry in it.

IMHO the 60/60 package is overkill unless you're sure you'll get on 40's someday. As far as the hydro it's not totally necessary but its pretty sweet being able to steer easily in heavy rocks with it. :yup:

Edit - with the money saved on the 60 rear and beadlocks, throw an EVO LA kit in there and ride down the road like a boss. You won't believe the difference in the on-road handling improvement.
 
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Mountainjk10

Caught the Bug
Why are worried about axles and 37's so much but not upgrading your lift kit? Personally I wouldn't want to invest that much $$ in axles, wheels/tires yet held together with an inferior lift kit. Just my .02 cents.


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wjtstudios

Hooked
Both D-days and mountainjk have it right. I’d focus on getting the pro rock up front and then go after the suspension. If you can do the Evo LA kit it is world changing for how the JKU drives for a daily driver. Pair that with a set of plush ride springs and rancho or King shock and you have a Jeep that will grow with you even if you go 60/60 with 40s down the road.

D-days also had a good point about the SF 60 rear but I can say that before I swapped my rear out for a SF 60, I was swapping rear axle shafts every 6 months turning 37s with bent flanges. So far I have yet to bend a 60 shaft, they are quite a bit stronger. I know I will in the future, it’s just the price you pay with the SF rear.

1350 drive shafts are must. Order the HDs without the greaseable u joints. One less thing to worry about.

Bead locks are great, but they aren’t necessary like the other items above

You can save a little and go with a single arb air compressor. Still will power the lockers but you won’t air up as fast.





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phillypete

New member
Why are worried about axles and 37's so much but not upgrading your lift kit? Personally I wouldn't want to invest that much $$ in axles, wheels/tires yet held together with an inferior lift kit. Just my .02 cents.


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So what is your idea, DTD and stay on 35s and stock axles and gears?


Two reasons I am looking at a new front axle:
- 3.21 gears are terrible with 35” tires
- I want lockers.

I have found that similar equipped Jeeps and even stock Rubicon’s can navigate certain obstacles much more easily than I thanks to their lockers. Maybe I’m wrong but of everything I’m doing I feel like this will have the greatest affect on navigating rough terrain.

In your opinion would a high end suspension system net more capabilities than lockers, gears and tires?
 

wjtstudios

Hooked
So what is your idea, DTD and stay on 35s and stock axles and gears?


Two reasons I am looking at a new front axle:
- 3.21 gears are terrible with 35” tires
- I want lockers.

I have found that similar equipped Jeeps and even stock Rubicon’s can navigate certain obstacles much more easily than I thanks to their lockers. Maybe I’m wrong but of everything I’m doing I feel like this will have the greatest affect on navigating rough terrain.

In your opinion would a high end suspension system net more capabilities than lockers, gears and tires?

No, lockers and gearing will make a huge difference on the trail. Suspension will improve the ride on and off the trail. In the end, if it’s a daily driver you will get more use out of the suspension. Really you need both


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wjtstudios

Hooked
Hmm. Have you taken a looked at Fusion 4x4 axles.

https://www.fusion4x4.com/online-store/Jeep-JK-Axles-c25661217

I personally run 37s on stock axles. Lock front and rear. I am however light on the skinny pedal. Don't run headlocks. I topically air down to 12 psi. 37 X 12.5 X 17 Cooper STT Pro View attachment 304467

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I run those axles and could not be happier with them. They can build them in 68.5 width as well.


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wjtstudios

Hooked
If you wouldn't mind providing on which set up you went. I'm looking at possibly stretching and swapping rear axle first. Dream is 40s!

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I have the 60/44 hybrid front with Reid knuckles, rare parts ball joints, and RCV shafts (which so far have been great, no noise or clicking). In the back is the SF 60. Both axles are 68.5” running arb lockers and 4:88 Yukon Gears.

I drive this Jeep everyday and for the foreseeable future I’m going to stay on 37s. If you are looking at 40s I think you need to go up to the FF 60 rear. But the RCV axle shafts are lifetime warranted up to 40” tires if you go in that direction

The only failure point with this setup are the OEM front wheel bearings, which if I need to swap every couple of years, I’m ok with that.


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