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Thread: Help me spend my money (smartly)

  1. #1
    Been Around the Block phillypete's Avatar
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    Help me spend my money (smartly)

    I have saved up about $12k to “invest” in my ‘13 JKU and I’d appreciate the Wayalife communities input in getting the best value for my dollars.

    So a brief description of my JK:
    - MOPAR Stage 3” Lift Kit
    - 35” Toyo MT (worn out)
    - Warn VR10
    - Poison Spyder Bumpers & Rails
    - Stock Axles
    - 3.21 Gears

    Here’s my list for this round of upgrades:
    - Dynatrac Trail Leader Package
    - PR44 Front with ARB and 5.13 Gears
    - Rear ARB, Gears and 35 spline shafts
    - 1350 front drive shaft
    - ARB Twin Compressor w/engine mount
    - Cooper STT Pro 37s
    - ATX Chambers


    The beadlocks are my main point of question. Would money be better served dropping them off the list and going with the 44/60 axle package?

    This is my daily driver. I commute 30 minute each way mostly highway at 70mph. Offroading usually consists of monthly runs at the local ORV Park. Now that I’m a Midwest resident I plan on making some trips to the desert and mountains in the near future. That being said I wouldn’t consider myself one to push my jeep too hard. I tend to stick to easier trails, but I want a vehicle capible of handling a difficult situation if the need arises.

  2. #2
    Nothing but a Thing boardsurfer's Avatar
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    I would put the money toward axles over beadlocks, personally. They are far more important in the grand scheme of things.

  3. #3
    Old Timer benatc1's Avatar
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    Good question, I’d say you can certainly get by without the beadlocks and put the money elsewhere for now. You’ll have to ask yourself if a 44/60 combo is really needed for what you plan to do, if it is great, but the trail leader package goes a long way with 37s. I wouldn’t waste your money on a semi float rear 60 either. Maybe you can get any other upgrades you’ve been wanting or save the money now for other upgrades down the road.


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  4. #4
    Meme King WJCO's Avatar
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    I haven't done Moab, however, around here in Colorado, I haven't experienced any issues with the Cooper STT Pros on the rocks. They grab well, even unlocked. I actually bumped my PSI from 15 up to 20 just because I haven't found a need to be down that low with these tires when I've compared the two pressures. If I were in your shoes with the decision, I would skip the beadlocks and spend the money elsewhere myself.
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  5. #5
    Nothing but a Thing
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    I'd probably use that money for one of Dynatracs 60/60 packages honestly, and then grab some tires.
    Even if you stick with 37's, not blowing up unit bearings so frequently is nice. I somewhat regret my PR44 for that reason.
    The axle is bombproof, but the shit unit bearings cause all kinds of problems. Locking hubs are nice too.
    You should probably think about some kind of cylinder assist before beadlocks.
    Lockers aren't overly helpful if you can't steer to hold a line on anything.

  6. #6
    Old Timer TrainWreck618's Avatar
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    Depending how much your factory rear end is going to cost to re-gear and set up, the 44/60 package might be a good idea. It comes setup and ready to go, and you could install both axles in your driveway. The only issue is the rear is semi-float, but it’s still a stronger axle housing than what you have currently. Are you having someone else do the work?


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  7. #7
    Been Around the Block phillypete's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JKDream View Post
    I'd probably use that money for one of Dynatracs 60/60 packages honestly, and then grab some tires.
    Even if you stick with 37's, not blowing up unit bearings so frequently is nice. I somewhat regret my PR44 for that reason.
    The axle is bombproof, but the shit unit bearings cause all kinds of problems. Locking hubs are nice too.
    You should probably think about some kind of cylinder assist before beadlocks.
    Lockers aren't overly helpful if you can't steer to hold a line on anything.
    60/60 puts me well north of my budget, and also would then need new wheels.

    I’ve heard from others that steering assist is not all that needed with anything less than 40s.

  8. #8
    Been Around the Block phillypete's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrainWreck618 View Post
    Depending how much your factory rear end is going to cost to re-gear and set up, the 44/60 package might be a good idea. It comes setup and ready to go, and you could install both axles in your driveway. The only issue is the rear is semi-float, but it’s still a stronger axle housing than what you have currently. Are you having someone else do the work?


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    I will have a shop setup the rear locker and gearing. I plan to do the front axle swap myself. In my budget I set aside $300 for a single axle regear. That number was just a guess.

  9. #9
    Old Timer TrainWreck618's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phillypete View Post
    I will have a shop setup the rear locker and gearing. I plan to do the front axle swap myself. In my budget I set aside $300 for a single axle regear. That number was just a guess.
    You might want to get a quote. They will probably want you to buy the parts through them, and $300 would be an amazing price. Around here guys want around $1000 an axle...


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  10. #10
    Old Timer fiend's Avatar
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    Based on how you described your needs, I would not bother with a 60 in the rear or front. The SF 60 is pointless unless you really want 5.38s for some reason. The 60/60 package is out of your budget and not necessary for your needs. The PR44 should be sufficient. Yes you will have to replace unit bearings periodically, but the part is cheap and easy to replace. I think your original plan is a good one. As for beadlocks, I like them for two reasons. First, you can air down lower with less risk of rolling a bead. Many people never air down below 15 so this benefit may be meaningless to you. The second benefit is that the ring will take the abuse and get chewed up and, most importantly, you know that going in and maybe take pride in every scratch and gouge on your rings. If you don’t have beadlocks but instead have “nice” aftermarket wheels, each scratch and gouge will suck because your nice wheels will look like crap.

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