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Thread: Please help me - what's causing my drive shaft to make this noise shifting out of 4lo

  1. #21
    Caught the Bug JMFK's Avatar
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    For what it’s worth years ago I put a Dana 300 transfer case into my CJ7 that I bought refurbished by a company called Novak. When they assembled it a brass bushing wasn’t properly installed which caused a lot of slop for which ever gear it was supposed to be on. I don’t recall exactly what shift pattern cause my sound but it was similar to the “ping” you heard. I’m guessing the gear was loose enough that when I shifted it didn’t slip into place nicely it more hammered into place. Your video kinda shows the same thing. The drive shaft has a quick rotation then rebounds with a ping. My issue was deeper than just the ping though because the bushing was just loose on the inside of the tcase and the grinding it caused was way worse than the ping. Hopefully the dealership will just replace the tcase for you and the problem goes away. Good luck.


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  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMFK View Post
    For what it’s worth years ago I put a Dana 300 transfer case into my CJ7 that I bought refurbished by a company called Novak. When they assembled it a brass bushing wasn’t properly installed which caused a lot of slop for which ever gear it was supposed to be on. I don’t recall exactly what shift pattern cause my sound but it was similar to the “ping” you heard. I’m guessing the gear was loose enough that when I shifted it didn’t slip into place nicely it more hammered into place. Your video kinda shows the same thing. The drive shaft has a quick rotation then rebounds with a ping. My issue was deeper than just the ping though because the bushing was just loose on the inside of the tcase and the grinding it caused was way worse than the ping. Hopefully the dealership will just replace the tcase for you and the problem goes away. Good luck.


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    That makes sense. I don't know the internals of the nv241s very well - I was thinking maybe the shift fork or something that moves with enough velocity or stores up ample torque. I guess I'll leave it up to the dealer at this point because I'm not about to tear open a part under warranty

  3. #23
    Administrator wayoflife's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tylerbrinks View Post
    Hi Eddie! I've never tried shifting in our out of 4hi/lo with the engine off. I'm happy to give it a try and see, but it sounds entirely mechanical so I'd assume so. I'll give it a try when I run out for lunch in an hour.
    Typically, you really need to be moving about 2-3 MPH when shifting in or out 4LO. Does it still make that sound when you do? When doing this with your engine off, you may find it necessary to push your Jeep a bit forward or back just a bit to get it to shift. You don't need your Jeep to be rolling, just enough movement to free things up.

  4. #24
    Old Timer VeruGE*144's Avatar
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    Please help me - what's causing my drive shaft to make this noise shifting out of 4lo

    Sounds like you are replicating the same ping with the shaft disconnected form the tcase. Just not as intense. I would suggest you inspect the shaft more closely as suggested by WJCO before jumping into conclusions. Most of the tcases are a bitch to shift sometimes, including mine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by VeruGE*144 View Post
    Sounds like you are replicating the same ping with the shaft disconnected form the tcase. Just not as intense. I would suggest you inspect the shaft more closely as suggested by WJCO before jumping into conclusions. Most of the tcases are a bitch to shift sometimes, including mine.
    When the shaft is disconnected I can get it to make noise, sure, but it's a hollow piece of metal. It's basically ringing a bell, so I'm not sure that confirms anything. I'm still hunting what would cause the impact or vibration. Rear drive shafts are so long, any noise or vibration is going to tend to be exaggerated there more than elsewhere from what I've heard. I'm tending to agree that the way the t-case is jerking one direction and then the other isn't a good sign. Hopefully when it's on the lift next week I can have the shaft looked at while the dealer confirms the t-case is or is not in good order. I had the local fabricator inspect the shaft this morning even though it was on the vehicle. They seemed to think it was in good shape as best they could tell without unbolting it...

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by wayoflife View Post
    Typically, you really need to be moving about 2-3 MPH when shifting in or out 4LO. Does it still make that sound when you do? When doing this with your engine off, you may find it necessary to push your Jeep a bit forward or back just a bit to get it to shift. You don't need your Jeep to be rolling, just enough movement to free things up.
    You might be on to something, so here's the facts and new discoveries.

    1. I was not able to reproduce the sound when shifting (eithe direction) with the car turned off. Now, part of that may be due to the fact that a few times I simply couldn't get it into 4hi from 4lo - it just got stuck in neutral. Nonetheless, car off did not cause the issue.

    2. With the car turned on it happens almost every attempt. Not every time - on rare occasion it's smooth as butter, maybe 1 out of 8 tries. The rest of the time it causes the issue.

    3. At one point I got stuck in neutral trying to get to 4hi. Years ago I come across that old Teraflex where Dennis shows a few 'tips' for encouraging a difficult shifter. So, since I was stuck in N, I was going to toggle the tranny into R and D a couple times to get the gears spinning. Mind you, the tranny and t-case were both in neutral at this point. To my surprise, when I dropped into drive the Jeep rolled forward. T-Case was in the neutral position physically and all dash lights off, but somehow the 4lo was still engaged. That one has me scratching my head but it sure feels like something just isn't quite right down there.

    4. I never have trouble getting into our out of 4lo. I never have trouble from 2hi to 4hi (obviously synced). The only trouble and the only cause of the noise is from 4lo (or neutral) to 4hi.

    As a postscript, even in 2hi I get the noise to happen when I shift from P to R if I've parked on an incline and get the parking pawl to engage when the car rolls and adds a bit of torque.

    Again, in case you suspect anything in particular, so far it's only happened with the car running.
    Last edited by tylerbrinks; 06-29-2018 at 09:37 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wayoflife View Post
    Typically, you really need to be moving about 2-3 MPH when shifting in or out 4LO. Does it still make that sound when you do? When doing this with your engine off, you may find it necessary to push your Jeep a bit forward or back just a bit to get it to shift. You don't need your Jeep to be rolling, just enough movement to free things up.
    Did some light wheeling over the weekend, and the T-Case kept popping out of 4hi back to 2wd on the first part of the trial. She needs some attention for sure. Took the Jeep to the dealer this morning. They're saying I may have to purchase Mopar drive shafts and have them replace my CV shafts in order for them to confirm if it's the t-case or transmission under warranty. That seems sketchy to me, but I suppose it could be part of the cost of ownership ... Worse yet, they only have one transmission tech, and he's newer. Good thing I'm traveling for the next couple weeks because they need the car at least that long.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by tylerbrinks View Post
    Did some light wheeling over the weekend, and the T-Case kept popping out of 4hi back to 2wd on the first part of the trial. She needs some attention for sure. Took the Jeep to the dealer this morning. They're saying I may have to purchase Mopar drive shafts and have them replace my CV shafts in order for them to confirm if it's the t-case or transmission under warranty. That seems sketchy to me, but I suppose it could be part of the cost of ownership ... Worse yet, they only have one transmission tech, and he's newer. Good thing I'm traveling for the next couple weeks because they need the car at least that long.
    My real concern is, if they want to put factory shafts back on, how much more the rear pinion's crush sleeve can take. I doubt it has a factory swap and another CV install without needing a new sleeve. I'm sure they're happy to charge for labor and parts for that too...

  9. #29
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    Well - at least at the moment the 'official' answer is one I didn't expect. On top of replacing the u-joints I took my JK to two different dealerships, one of which has a 20 year transmission veteran. It's under warranty, so a free opinion can't hurt.

    The prevailing opinion is that the noise is totally normal for a CV shaft and, and simply a result of the torque built up in the drive line. There's still no explanation as to why. Loose non-threaded yoke at the t-case, contact with the centering yoke and the ears, who knows. Good news is the transmission and t-case have been verified in good order. So, unless anyone else has creative ideas, I sound like Sugar Ray going in for a knockout round every time I go wheeling.

  10. #30
    Meme King WJCO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tylerbrinks View Post
    Well - at least at the moment the 'official' answer is one I didn't expect. On top of replacing the u-joints I took my JK to two different dealerships, one of which has a 20 year transmission veteran. It's under warranty, so a free opinion can't hurt.

    The prevailing opinion is that the noise is totally normal for a CV shaft and, and simply a result of the torque built up in the drive line. There's still no explanation as to why. Loose non-threaded yoke at the t-case, contact with the centering yoke and the ears, who knows. Good news is the transmission and t-case have been verified in good order. So, unless anyone else has creative ideas, I sound like Sugar Ray going in for a knockout round every time I go wheeling.
    It's easy for a dealer to give out the phrase "normal" like Halloween candy. I don't recall ever hearing a noise like that on any JK or any other vehicle for that matter.

    There is a tool out there called "chassis ears." It has a receiver that goes next to the driver. Then there are several microphone transmitters that are installed on various parts of the vehicle and they have numbers on them. The receiver can select each number individually. So when the noise occurs, the receiver will pick it up on channel 4 for example. Wherever you installed transmitter 4, that's the area that the noise is coming from.
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