Rubicon - 5.13 or 5.38's for Re-Gear?

R

ravencr

Member
Right now I'm running 35's, but I'll switch up to 37's. It's a 2017 Rubicon Recon with Auto tranny, and it's a complete pig. It constantly shifts down to 3rd gear all the time running at high speed on the hwy...super annoying. I'm leaning towards 5.38's, but is there any reason not to run that low of a gear set on these, other than the obvious pinion size?

Chris
 
QuicksilverJK

QuicksilverJK

Caught the Bug
You nailed it with the pinion size. I know lots of people have done it without issues, but it honestly scares me. I went with 5.13 on my 3.8 manual and am very happy with it. I would assume your 3.6 with auto would be comparable.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
R

ravencr

Member
K, it's probably smart to run the 5.13's and push it. Any recommendations on brand of gears? Is there a best brand?

Chris
 
wjtstudios

wjtstudios

Hooked
With the 3.6 and 37s, I run 4:88s and am very happy with both the on and off-road performance. It’s not searching for gears except for the really long inclines on the highway or a hellacious head winds while going up hill. 5:13s would be great too. 5:38 would be over kill and it also brings the pinion size back into play.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
R

ravencr

Member
k, thanks. I think I'll get the 5.13's because I might be running the 35's for quite a while still. Fair price front and rear to pay a shop for everything?

Chris
 
Gobicon2017

Gobicon2017

New member
ravencr said:
k, thanks. I think I'll get the 5.13's because I might be running the 35's for quite a while still. Fair price front and rear to pay a shop for everything?

Chris
Click to expand...

Running Yukon 4.88’s and 37’s on my 17 recon. In my opinion there a perfect fit all around. Look for a sale online for gears, I found mine in a master rebuild kit for almost half the cost. Do not know average cost, just find someone good at what they do. [emoji1303][emoji1303]


Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Last edited:
zimm

zimm

Caught the Bug
I'd go 5.13. I'm on 4.88's but tow a lot. Down here in Florida, if the highway goes up at all, as in every interchange, it downshifts at 72mph into 4th. Pretty annoying. I wonder if 5.13 would avoid that.

Prices are all over the places, but with master rebuild kits (new bearings), you should be under $2,000. More than that is rip off territory.

I would spend a few more bucks and have them replace the inner front axle seals at the same time. They're only $20. Mine leaked a year after my gear install. It's also very common for the rubicon e-locker plastic electrical connector to break while disassembling it, so that might cost a few more bucks too.
 
R

Rocralr

Member
If you are keeping the V6 go with 5:13. If you are going up to a V8 with new axles go with 4:88 unless yo tow or have big hills.
 
R

ravencr

Member
Sweet, thanks guys. I’m going to do 5.13’s. Somebody mentioned I should do the artec truss and dynatrac ball joints at the same time.

Chris
 
Speedy_RCW

Speedy_RCW

Hooked
ravencr said:
Sweet, thanks guys. I’m going to do 5.13’s. Somebody mentioned I should do the artec truss and dynatrac ball joints at the same time.

Chris
Click to expand...

Good choice. Skip the truss, do C gussets. Ball joints would be a good thing to do as well but your stockers will be fine for awhile. Once they wear out swap in the Dynatrac ones. They’re spendy but worth it.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
R

ravencr

Member
I was told when you do the c gussets and the truss you should change the ball joints at the same time because of the heat of the welding can cause damage to the stock ball joints.
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
ravencr said:
I was told when you do the c gussets and the truss you should change the ball joints at the same time because of the heat of the welding can cause damage to the stock ball joints.
Click to expand...

You don't have to. You can use wet rags to keep the joint cool and weld just a little at a time and then switch to a different area to keep the heat down.
 
StormTrooper_JK

StormTrooper_JK

Member
wjtstudios said:
With the 3.6 and 37s, I run 4:88s and am very happy with both the on and off-road performance. It’s not searching for gears except for the really long inclines on the highway or a hellacious head winds while going up hill. 5:13s would be great too. 5:38 would be over kill and it also brings the pinion size back into play.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

I agree. I run 4.88 and other than a constant hill climb I feel like these are a perfect set up. Still crawls great and hits 70mph perfectly at about 2800 rpm


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
J

JKDream

Guest
ravencr said:
k, thanks. I think I'll get the 5.13's because I might be running the 35's for quite a while still. Fair price front and rear to pay a shop for everything?

Chris
Click to expand...
5:13 and 35s with the 3.6 auto is terrible fyi. If you are going to have them for more than a couple of months I'd reconsider.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
DMF

DMF

Active Member
You should just skip the gearing and do an engine swap. Must have the pedal to the floor if you're driving it pretty hard doing 80 in 3rd gear.
 
zimm

zimm

Caught the Bug
There's only a 120rpm difference between 4.88 and 5.13.

79mph? My jeep gets very unhappy over 73mph, so that's about my limit on the freeway. Maybe I should do a V8 too.
 
R

ravencr

Member
Our jeep rides fine at 84mph in NE and CO, but it just shifts down way too much...only 120RPM is nothing to further prevent the downshifts in my opinion.

Chris
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom