New Drag Link Loose

MDK210

New member
Just installed a new top mount drag link and the knuckle side already has play in it and not the rotational kind similar to the tie rod. The pitman arm is good but the knuckle side bangs up and down when moving it by hand. Torque meets manufacturers specs and I took a video but I don’t think I’m allowed to post it after reading the forum rules.

Anyone else notice this with a top mount setup?

https://youtu.be/Z6m9bzVej3w
 
Last edited:

jesse3638

Hooked
Just installed a new top mount drag link and the knuckle side already has play in it and not the rotational kind similar to the tie rod. The pitman arm is good but the knuckle side bangs up and down when moving it by hand. Torque meets manufacturers specs and I took a video but I don’t think I’m allowed to post it after reading the forum rules.

Anyone else notice this with a top mount setup?

Post up your vid as long as its not directing traffic to a social media page or youtube channel you own. When you installed the new drag link I'm assuming you drilled the knuckle out and put in a new tapered sleeve?
 

MDK210

New member
Post up your vid as long as its not directing traffic to a social media page or youtube channel you own. When you installed the new drag link I'm assuming you drilled the knuckle out and put in a new tapered sleeve?

Nice...video link is in original post. Actually it’s one of the drag links you don’t need to drill the knuckle, just pop in the reverse tappered sleeve and torque to 110ft lbs. The install shop/authorized dealer I bought from had his techs look at the video and they said it was normal but I’m not sure about that.
 

QuicksilverJK

Caught the Bug
Definitely not supposed to have any movement up and down of the ball in the socket which is exactly what I see happening there. And I don't see any indication that the taper isn't seated properly. What brand drag link is it?


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jeeeep

Hooked
Just installed a new top mount drag link and the knuckle side already has play in it and not the rotational kind similar to the tie rod. The pitman arm is good but the knuckle side bangs up and down when moving it by hand. Torque meets manufacturers specs and I took a video but I don’t think I’m allowed to post it after reading the forum rules.

Anyone else notice this with a top mount setup?

https://youtu.be/Z6m9bzVej3w

they'll tell you it's normal because they use a HD Ford1ton spring loaded end or some BS like that...

Then the boot will crack and leak but they won't replace it, you'll need to buy another boot, then another ....

Then one of the ends will fail and you'll realize the mistake you made in buying it when look at the cost of their replacement parts :icon_crazy:

By this time you'll order something else and toss it on the "shit I wish I hadn't bought" pile in the garage to remind you how much $$$ wasted :doh::doh::doh:
 

MDK210

New member
they'll tell you it's normal because they use a HD Ford1ton spring loaded end or some BS like that...

Then the boot will crack and leak but they won't replace it, you'll need to buy another boot, then another ....

Then one of the ends will fail and you'll realize the mistake you made in buying it when look at the cost of their replacement parts :icon_crazy:

By this time you'll order something else and toss it on the "shit I wish I hadn't bought" pile in the garage to remind you how much $$$ wasted :doh::doh::doh:
Damnnnnn, when I talk to them tomorrow I’ll use this as ammunition if they try that ha. I’m just wondering what causes it yet the pitman arm is fine.
 

MDK210

New member
Just got an email, here is the response;

“I reviewed your video and it appears to be ok. What you are hearing is the reverse pin inside the joint. That is the pin on the back side of the ball stud that sits in a machined channel that keeps the linkage from flopping. The lash (or movement) in the joint looks to be within tolerance. It is a spring loaded socket, this ensures proper preload on the ball-stud at all times. If you have any other questions, please feel free to reach out to us.”
 

WJCO

Meme King
Just got an email, here is the response;

“I reviewed your video and it appears to be ok. What you are hearing is the reverse pin inside the joint. That is the pin on the back side of the ball stud that sits in a machined channel that keeps the linkage from flopping. The lash (or movement) in the joint looks to be within tolerance. It is a spring loaded socket, this ensures proper preload on the ball-stud at all times. If you have any other questions, please feel free to reach out to us.”

As much as steer smarts can lick my balls, in my head I'm attempting to give them the benefit of the doubt, but that just doesn't seem right. I can't recall any drag link that has play like that nor makes that noise. How does the steering feel while driving it?
 

MDK210

New member
As much as steer smarts can lick my balls, in my head I'm attempting to give them the benefit of the doubt, but that just doesn't seem right. I can't recall any drag link that has play like that nor makes that noise. How does the steering feel while driving it?

Drives fine, nothing seems out of place, and no noises. Only reason I even went near it was to re-torque everything just to satisfy my OCD. Even had it at an off-road company yesterday who test drove it because we were working on something else unrelated and they said it drove great. My buddies AEV flipped drag link on his Jeep, which is sitting in my garage, doesn’t do that however...
 

QuicksilverJK

Caught the Bug
As much as it doesn't seem right, if they indeed use this type of joint, then maybe it's normal. Found these pics with a quick google search. Didn't search the manufacturer, just the type of joint.

IMG_4171.JPG
Vs
IMG_4172.JPG


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jdofmemi

Active Member
Looks like a lot of movement that will cause things to wear out way to early.

I will be checking mine now, since that is what I have as well.
 

MDK210

New member
As much as it doesn't seem right, if they indeed use this type of joint, then maybe it's normal. Found these pics with a quick google search. Didn't search the manufacturer, just the type of joint.

View attachment 310756
Vs
View attachment 310757


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Good shit QuicksilverJK, thanks for that. I emailed them back asking why the AEV drag link installed on the other JK doesn’t do that and how they can guarantee me that this is normal operation for their joints. Just seems weird the pitman arm side doesn’t do it and I’ve seen video reviews showing their tie rods that have “no flop” joint characteristics. Well if it’s the same joint on the tie rod and drag link I got flop!
 

Turbo21

New member
I have this same drag link and for the first 3 months I would have problems with death wobble appearing out of no where. All 3 times the nut for the stud was loose. After the 3rd time of torquing it to 100ft lbs. I went to 150 and haven’t had a problem since. Not sure if anyone else has had the loose but problem but almost crashed me into a telephone pole the 2nd time


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MDK210

New member
I have this same drag link and for the first 3 months I would have problems with death wobble appearing out of no where. All 3 times the nut for the stud was loose. After the 3rd time of torquing it to 100ft lbs. I went to 150 and haven’t had a problem since. Not sure if anyone else has had the loose but problem but almost crashed me into a telephone pole the 2nd time


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Wow. Did you reach out to the company about it? If so did they say anything?
 

MDK210

New member
Final Response and since they’ve seen the video I have to believe they wouldn’t let me drive around if it was a legitimate problem. Like the company or not they know more than I do and they answer the AEV question as well;

“I assure you that your concerns are understood but not warranted. We manufacture over 1.5 million linkages for Ford, GM and FCA every year and we have been a tier one steering supplier to them for over 85 years. If there is one thing we know, it is steering joints… and customer service!

Here are a couple key things that I would like to point out.
- The torque of the nut on the stud has no affect on the movement inside of the socket. If the axis of the stud was moving that would cause concerns.
- The joint is a steel on steel ball-stud and bearing design. Without lash in that joint, the ball stud would bind under articulation or with any other impact to the steering system.

I assure you, that joint is within spec. I would be happy to swap out the end, but I am confident you would be looking at the same thing in the end because it is function the way it was intended.

Also, we manufacture and supply AEV with all of their top mount draglinks. The AEV draglink is a different socket design. It is what we call a dual seat socket. There is no reverse pin on the back side of the ball-stud and because of that you will not hear any noise. It also has a different preload on that joint. Without the reverse pin in that socket it allows the linkage to flop or roll.”
 
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