New axle

loganokeefe72

New member
So my stock front axle broke a couple weeks ago. I welded it up just so I could drive my jeep for now. I was looking at getting a teraflex Dana 44 axle housing and swaping over the gears and everything. Just wanted to know if this is a good idea or not or if there is a better axle to go with. My budget is about $2500 which is why I'm only getting the housing.

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Speedy_RCW

Hooked
So my stock front axle broke a couple weeks ago. I welded it up just so I could drive my jeep for now. I was looking at getting a teraflex Dana 44 axle housing and swaping over the gears and everything. Just wanted to know if this is a good idea or not or if there is a better axle to go with. My budget is about $2500 which is why I'm only getting the housing.

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PR44 is pretty badass.


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WJCO

Meme King
So my stock front axle broke a couple weeks ago. I welded it up just so I could drive my jeep for now. I was looking at getting a teraflex Dana 44 axle housing and swaping over the gears and everything. Just wanted to know if this is a good idea or not or if there is a better axle to go with. My budget is about $2500 which is why I'm only getting the housing.

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How are you going to swap the dana 30 gears into a 44 housing? Your profile says that you have a Sahara so I'm assuming your front axle is a Dana30.

And yes there's a better axle to go with. As mentioned, the ProRock 44 would be the best option.
 

Benito

Caught the Bug
If you are really in a bind to get a new axle I believe you can get a complete D44 housing, 4.10 geared, elocker, axle shafts, knuckles and unit bearings for that price, you would have to regear the rear end though.

If you are wanting to swap your D30 internals then yes, your only option I believe is the terrorflex D30 housing.

If I was in your boat and needed a new front housing urgently, and only had the $2500 right now I would order the non Rubicon PR44 housing get new ball joints and swap my wheel ends over (knuckles, unit bearings, brakes) and and drive around with the empty housing. Would not have 4wd until I the internals can be afforded.
 

Eloucha

New member
So my stock front axle broke a couple weeks ago. I welded it up just so I could drive my jeep for now. I was looking at getting a teraflex Dana 44 axle housing and swaping over the gears and everything. Just wanted to know if this is a good idea or not or if there is a better axle to go with. My budget is about $2500 which is why I'm only getting the housing.

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Like everyone said u don’t regret going pro44 save more and re gear it bc u don’t need to pay labor twice. And since is the front go with true trac locker.
 

desertrunner

Active Member
As other have said if you have a d30 you can't swap those internals into a 44.
You can definitely find a used Rubi front 44 for that budget and depending on what gears you have currency you may or may not have to re gear the rear. Or cheapest option you can have the D30 sitting in my garage haha

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fiend

Caught the Bug
The unit bearing holds the wheel on and supports the weight of the vehicle. The stub shaft doesn’t do that. You can drive without the shafts.
 

WJCO

Meme King
If you do drive with an empty housing make sure you put stub shafts in the unit bearings


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Why?


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I've heard that before but never got an answer as to why that's necessary.



I agree, What's the reasoning? That bearing doesn't give a shit if a stub shaft is in there or not.

The unit bearing holds the wheel on and supports the weight of the vehicle. The stub shaft doesn’t do that. You can drive without the shafts.



Not necessary on a JK : https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/25883-Running-without-front-axle-stub-shaft-(trail-fix)
 

jdofmemi

Active Member
On some vehicles, the stub shaft gets tightened up against the unit bearing, holding it together.
On my 2500 Chevy, I had a CV joint fail, so I just pulled the axle and drove home. I was in Ely Nevada when I pulled the shaft. The guy at Napa there, where I tried to but a spare, told me not to drive without it. I had done so before in several other rigs with no issue, so I ignored him. He didn't say why, and his attitude was condescending, not helpful, so

I made it to SoCal, and at 75 on the freeway the unit bearing came apart and the tire, wheel, hub assembly pulled off and went into oncoming traffic. I was lucky it didn't kill someone.
Plus it is Mr Toads wild ride when you loose a 35" tire at speed and drop to the A arm.

I heard one small noise for about 3 seconds while leaving a stop a few miles before it happened, but it went away, and I couldn't tell where it came from. Then, I had about 3 seconds when the bearing failed. It pulled hard left, then the brake caliper, which was the last thing holding it together, broke and I watched the tire roll off on it's own.

I share this because I don't want someone else to have to go through this.
 

ThatJeepGuy

New member
I might be wrong but having the stub in puts a “load” on both sides of the bearings thus creating preload. Which is why if you have play in the bearings you can tighten up the nut some to take some of the play out until you can replace it


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Ddays

Hooked
I might be wrong but having the stub in puts a “load” on both sides of the bearings thus creating preload. Which is why if you have play in the bearings you can tighten up the nut some to take some of the play out until you can replace it

That's true with replaceable bearings but in the case of the JK, they are totally sealed and self-contained. There isn't any way to tighten them up.
 
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