Driveshaft Lengths and sizes

bhaner

bhaner

Active Member
I am looking to get some driveshafts on the way before I am to the point of having the axles installed.

My setup will be a 2016 JKU Rubicon with an automatic.

Evo long arms, Evo DTD with rear evo lever.

Dynatrac ProRock XD60 front and 80 rear.

Looks like the front axle has a 1350 yoke and the rear has a 1410 yoke.

What is the strongest driveshaft I can run with the stock transfer case? I plan on moving to an Atlas next year when I install the LS engine/trans. Hopefully I will be able to use the same shafts just shorten them a little.

Can someone with the same setup give me a good length measurement for the front and rear?
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Honestly, you really NEED to wait until you have your axles installed and then take measurements from the yoke to the flange and then have custom shafts made. Their length will be determined in large part on how tall your Jeep ultimately sits at ride height. Being that every Jeep will be different especially with a setup like you'll have, you can't really go off of what others are running.
 
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PEACEMAKER1

New member
Definitely what Eddie said. I know it adds time to the install, but it's better to be safe and get a good measurement. I am running XD60s front and rear and decided to go with Adams. They look great and fit perfectly. I think a lot of people also like JE Reel shafts too. Either are solid brands and will give you an excellent shaft. I'm looking forward to seeing your rig in the end. Sounds like you have some awesome plans!
 
bhaner

bhaner

Active Member
wayoflife said:
Honestly, you really NEED to wait until you have your axles installed and then take measurements from the yoke to the flange and then have custom shafts made. Their length will be determined in large part on how tall your Jeep ultimately sits at ride height. Being that every Jeep will be different especially with a setup like you'll have, you can't really go off of what others are running.
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True. Was just hoping to get close and save myself some wait time. But you are right.

Any thoughts on what size joints/shaft to run for maximum strength? Not sure what I can hook to the factory t-case. I know I will need new yokes.
 
bhaner

bhaner

Active Member
PEACEMAKER1 said:
Definitely what Eddie said. I know it adds time to the install, but it's better to be safe and get a good measurement. I am running XD60s front and rear and decided to go with Adams. They look great and fit perfectly. I think a lot of people also like JE Reel shafts too. Either are solid brands and will give you an excellent shaft. I'm looking forward to seeing your rig in the end. Sounds like you have some awesome plans!
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Yep. I have looked at Adams. I will also check out JE Reel.

Thanks!
 
jesse3638

jesse3638

Hooked
bhaner said:
Yep. I have looked at Adams. I will also check out JE Reel.

Thanks!
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If you have a local, reputable driveline shop I'd give them a look. Had my old rear 1310 completely rebuilt for a trail spare and he replaced my u-joints on my 1310 front for the cost of parts plus $20 labor. It could be a bit cheaper than ordering from one of the companies mentioned although they are good too. If I remember Eddie had a new 1350 driveshaft built by a shop locally to him for a couple hundred bucks.
 
bhaner

bhaner

Active Member
jesse3638 said:
If you have a local, reputable driveline shop I'd give them a look. Had my old rear 1310 completely rebuilt for a trail spare and he replaced my u-joints on my 1310 front for the cost of parts plus $20 labor. It could be a bit cheaper than ordering from one of the companies mentioned although they are good too. If I remember Eddie had a new 1350 driveshaft built by a shop locally to him for a couple hundred bucks.
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I have a really good local shop. The problem is I have no idea what to tell him for the yokes on the t-case. If I knew what to do there it might be a good option.
 
bhaner

bhaner

Active Member
Is it possible to run 1410 joints for the front and rear? Packing spares would be easy that way...
 
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PEACEMAKER1

New member
Well you would need a yoke the fits the NP241 tcase (which I assume is what you are running?). I run the yoke/flange set-up because I think it's a little stronger than the yoke that runs u-joints directly. And the other ends of the shafts are what match your axle set (1350 front/1410 rear). Does that make sense?
 
bhaner

bhaner

Active Member
PEACEMAKER1 said:
Well you would need a yoke the fits the NP241 tcase (which I assume is what you are running?). I run the yoke/flange set-up because I think it's a little stronger than the yoke that runs u-joints directly. And the other ends of the shafts are what match your axle set (1350 front/1410 rear). Does that make sense?
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Yep. NV241OR Rock-Trac is what I found in a google search.

I do like the idea of a flange setup.

Looks like Reel makes some 1410 front and rear shafts. $$$$! http://reeldriveline.com/store/index.php?route=product/category&path=99_69_62
 
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PEACEMAKER1

New member
Yep! You just need to make sure you have the 1350 for your front since that is what input you will have on the XD60. That's going to be a strong rig!
 
wjtstudios

wjtstudios

Hooked
bhaner said:
Is it possible to run 1410 joints for the front and rear? Packing spares would be easy that way...
Click to expand...

I’m sure if you call dan, he could ship you out a new yoke for the front and then have both shafts built at 1410. Another vote for Adams, they built both my front and rear 1350 HD shafts. No vibrations at all below 75. Above that, I do get a slight vibration which could just as likely be the wheel/tires verses driveshaft.
The HD have solid U joints. One less thing to grease.


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