Raised Track Bar/Flipped Drag Link/Drop Pitman Arm - No middle Ground?

BigBad408

New member
I've searched a good bit on this and haven't found exactly what I am looking for, so bear with me here:

I have a 2017 JKUR, currently with the Mopar 2" lift 35's - Falcon Shocks, Nexus Steering Stabilizer and TerrorFlex Monster Track bar - forgive me for the terrorflex - I didn't know any better - it's getting replaced. I also bought the Falcons early on but am quite honestly happy with them.

A recent wheeling expedition resulted in a badly bent front axle. I'm going to be replacing the front axle with a ProRock 44. I am also upgrading the suspension while I have it in pieces. I wheel on a mix of technical trails, desert runs, etc. I'm not big into hardcore rock crawling. I had settled on Clayton Off Road's 3.5" Premium Lift with Control Arms and Front and Rear track bars (get rid of the terrorflex). As I started to research drag link flips I learned that 3" of bumpstop extension is required for the flipped drag link to clear the frame when bottomed. Makes sense, except that essentially means with me adding 1.5" of spring and associated travel, I lose it (and more) by needing longer bump stops, which seems to suck. I have raised my center of gravity without the added benefit of additional suspension travel.

I understand all the geometry issues between the track bar and drag link and the frame clearance issues. I understand a drop pitman arm increases stress on the steering box itself and apparently what's available isn't of great quality. What I don't understand is how there isn't a better solution than this? I must be missing something. It just doesn't seem acceptable to have to bumpstop the heck out of your Jeep with the flipped drag link. If you're doing a 6" lift it's not a big deal, but it seems like the 3"-4" crowd get's screwed.

My question is, why:

A) Can't anybody make a quality drop pitman arm? That:

B) Is providing maybe only 1.5" of additional drop and

C) Is working in tandem with a flipped drag link that is shaped to clearance the frame at that intersection point to not require additional (or so much additional). A bend similar to how trackbars are shaped to clear our diff housings. Metallurgy has come a long way, we can make impressive shapes that retain strength.


This seems way too easy and the Jeep aftermarket (and all of us owners) are way too smart to just go "oh well, I lose that travel". So what am I missing?
 

BaddestCross

Active Member
First, as a rule of thumb, you need as much bump stop as you have lift, so 3.5" lift=3.5" bump stop=no problem with a flipped drag link.

Secondly, you may not need to do a drag link flip at 3.5"... I run 3.5" and my drag link and track bar are pretty close to parallel without it.

Lastly, if you're concerned about riding your bump stops going fast at 3", many will install air bumps so it's not so violent.

--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 

BigBad408

New member
King Air Bumps are on my list. I should have mentioned that. The impact we took that bent the axle actually broke the factory bumpstop (both the poly part and the lower metal stop).

So help me out with the "rule of thumb". Why is that? If not the drag link, what am I in danger of striking and why does it increase in line with the size of the lift?
 

BaddestCross

Active Member
King Air Bumps are on my list. I should have mentioned that. The impact we took that bent the axle actually broke the factory bumpstop (both the poly part and the lower metal stop).

So help me out with the "rule of thumb". Why is that? If not the drag link, what am I in danger of striking and why does it increase in line with the size of the lift?
Generally, JK folks lift to fit a particular tire size and that rule of thumb seems to be fairly close. I'm running 3.5" for 37s but my bumps are about 3" and I still rub a bit at full flex. 3.5" of bump stop would be perfect.

--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 

WJCO

Meme King
You don't run a drop pitman arm and a flipped drag link together. Usually it's one or the other.

Or are you saying why doesn't someone make a good dropped pitman arm instead of having to flip the draglink?
 

BigBad408

New member
You don't run a drop pitman arm and a flipped drag link together. Usually it's one or the other.

Or are you saying why doesn't someone make a good dropped pitman arm instead of having to flip the draglink?


Partly, yes. I understand even a "good" quality dropped pitman arm stresses the box in ways it shouldn't be. But the pitman arm doesn't need to have 4" of drop. It could have only an inch of drop, which would seemingly minimize the additional stress on the box and potentially bring the drag link and track bar geometries close enough together to compensate for a 3"-4" lift. It seems to me all the solutions are still geared toward big travel.
 

fiend

Caught the Bug
I've searched a good bit on this and haven't found exactly what I am looking for, so bear with me here:

I have a 2017 JKUR, currently with the Mopar 2" lift 35's - Falcon Shocks, Nexus Steering Stabilizer and TerrorFlex Monster Track bar - forgive me for the terrorflex - I didn't know any better - it's getting replaced. I also bought the Falcons early on but am quite honestly happy with them.

A recent wheeling expedition resulted in a badly bent front axle. I'm going to be replacing the front axle with a ProRock 44. I am also upgrading the suspension while I have it in pieces. I wheel on a mix of technical trails, desert runs, etc. I'm not big into hardcore rock crawling. I had settled on Clayton Off Road's 3.5" Premium Lift with Control Arms and Front and Rear track bars (get rid of the terrorflex). As I started to research drag link flips I learned that 3" of bumpstop extension is required for the flipped drag link to clear the frame when bottomed. Makes sense, except that essentially means with me adding 1.5" of spring and associated travel, I lose it (and more) by needing longer bump stops, which seems to suck. I have raised my center of gravity without the added benefit of additional suspension travel.

I understand all the geometry issues between the track bar and drag link and the frame clearance issues. I understand a drop pitman arm increases stress on the steering box itself and apparently what's available isn't of great quality. What I don't understand is how there isn't a better solution than this? I must be missing something. It just doesn't seem acceptable to have to bumpstop the heck out of your Jeep with the flipped drag link. If you're doing a 6" lift it's not a big deal, but it seems like the 3"-4" crowd get's screwed.

My question is, why:

A) Can't anybody make a quality drop pitman arm? That:

B) Is providing maybe only 1.5" of additional drop and

C) Is working in tandem with a flipped drag link that is shaped to clearance the frame at that intersection point to not require additional (or so much additional). A bend similar to how trackbars are shaped to clear our diff housings. Metallurgy has come a long way, we can make impressive shapes that retain strength.


This seems way too easy and the Jeep aftermarket (and all of us owners) are way too smart to just go "oh well, I lose that travel". So what am I missing?

The purpose of a lift (at least, an off the shelf lift) is not to get more suspension travel. It’s to clear large tires and get more ground clearance. So all else being equal, a 3” lift with 3” of extra bump stops is not going to give you more or less travel than your stock set up.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

BigBad408

New member
The purpose of a lift (at least, an off the shelf lift) is not to get more suspension travel. It’s to clear large tires and get more ground clearance. So all else being equal, a 3” lift with 3” of extra bump stops is not going to give you more or less travel than your stock set up.

Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

I'm going to disagree with you. If we wanted taller jeeps with big tires we'd just stack 3" spacers under our stock springs. We wouldn't replace shocks, brake lines, control arms, driveshafts. We are gaining the ability to stuff bigger tires and get more ground clearance while increasing up travel and down travel to crawl over larger obstacles.

As for "all else being equal"....If I wasn't clear, this is exactly my issue and what I am trying to figure out. 3" of lift with 3" of bump stops = no added travel (if you flip the drag link). There should be a solution that allows for the best of both worlds.
 

BaddestCross

Active Member
I'm going to disagree with you. If we wanted taller jeeps with big tires we'd just stack 3" spacers under our stock springs. We wouldn't replace shocks, brake lines, control arms, driveshafts. We are gaining the ability to stuff bigger tires and get more ground clearance while increasing up travel and down travel to crawl over larger obstacles.

As for "all else being equal"....If I wasn't clear, this is exactly my issue and what I am trying to figure out. 3" of lift with 3" of bump stops = no added travel (if you flip the drag link). There should be a solution that allows for the best of both worlds.
If you don't give a shit about keeping your center of gravity low then you may have a point but at 3"of lift you're not gonna have significant uptravel anyway unless you're only running 32s. 🤪

--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 

fiend

Caught the Bug
I'm going to disagree with you. If we wanted taller jeeps with big tires we'd just stack 3" spacers under our stock springs. We wouldn't replace shocks, brake lines, control arms, driveshafts. We are gaining the ability to stuff bigger tires and get more ground clearance while increasing up travel and down travel to crawl over larger obstacles.

As for "all else being equal"....If I wasn't clear, this is exactly my issue and what I am trying to figure out. 3" of lift with 3" of bump stops = no added travel (if you flip the drag link). There should be a solution that allows for the best of both worlds.

Notch your frame and do a whole lot of cutting.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

WJCO

Meme King
Why not just add a slightly taller bump stop only on the passenger side. I think your dream pitman likely doesn't exist and now that JLs are kind of becoming popular right now, I can't imagine a company coming up with a pitman arm like that now.
 

QuicksilverJK

Caught the Bug
With the larger tires you are limited in up travel. When I was running 35s I could get by with 2" of bump stop. Now with 37s I have 3" and did a bit of trimming. The flipped drag link was never an issue on mine, just tires rubbing. With the lift you are gaining significant down travel so don't get too upset if you have to add bump stops. The lift will increase your ability off road beyond just gaining ground clearance.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

Ddays

Hooked
I'm going to disagree with you. If we wanted taller jeeps with big tires we'd just stack 3" spacers under our stock springs. We wouldn't replace shocks, brake lines, control arms, driveshafts. We are gaining the ability to stuff bigger tires and get more ground clearance while increasing up travel and down travel to crawl over larger obstacles.

As for "all else being equal"....If I wasn't clear, this is exactly my issue and what I am trying to figure out. 3" of lift with 3" of bump stops = no added travel (if you flip the drag link). There should be a solution that allows for the best of both worlds.

Uptravel is always going to be restricted somewhat due to having those pesky fenders over the tires. I think the correct word you are looking for is articulation. It's not just about the up or down travel. Your tires need to be contacting something in order to gain traction. By having larger tires and increased articulation due to longer coils you gain more traction. difference is obvious when comparing what a stock and modified vehicle look like on an RTI ramp. Not real world but proves the point.

stock rti.jpg

modified rti.jpg
 

BigBad408

New member
I feel like we are straying from the point a little and part of that may be my fault for not being clear. I'm not asking about articulation or "flex". I'm asking about total travel. The total amount of travel from fully compressed to fully extended of any singular corner. If I have a longer spring and a LONGER area between the upper and lower bump stops I have more travel(assuming my shocks are sized appropriately) . More ability for the jeep to absorb impact before bottoming. Currently I measure roughly 3.75" between my upper and lower bump stops on the front. Even if I'm only adding 1.5", that's 40% more free travel, which is signficant. If I am forced to bumpstop the jeep to avoid the drag link from hitting the frame, I am robbing myself of that travel. I have high clearance fenders and I'm not trying to stuff 37's, so that travel is available to me otherwise.

Going back to the original point, it seems there should be a better solution than what is currently out there, unless I am missing something. If there isn't I'm surprised. I may be the guy to take my pitman arm to a local fab shop and say "make this, but a little bit different".

I'm plenty happy with the articulation I have now. Pics from a couple weeks before my axle bending experience :doh:
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0773.jpg
    IMG_0773.jpg
    130.8 KB · Views: 63
  • IMG_0772 2.jpg
    IMG_0772 2.jpg
    130.3 KB · Views: 71

Ddays

Hooked
:thinking: Articulation/flex = total travel. You HAVE to have larger bump stops or your larger tires and or steering components will be jammed up in the fender well and frame.

Unless you plan on doing a total re-engineering of the front axle/suspension you're stuck with taller bump stops like the rest of us.
 
Last edited:

A.J.

Active Member
Don't over think it. Honestly the shocks are what will limit your overall travel. There are some handling gains in doing the flip with raised track bar. When I purchased my jeep used it came with an early version of the Rancho 4" sport lift. Dropped control arm brackets, dropped pitman arm and drop brackets for front and rear track bars along with only 2" bump stop extensions. The front track bar bracket cracked almost immediately and that was my clue to make some changes. I did some research and being a bit of a cheap ass ended up with a bit of a frankenlift. I did the flip, raised track bar brackets front and rear and the handling was so much better with just those changes. Then I added three inch bump stops awhile later because I kept bottoming out on the raised track bar bracket. Soon after I started noticing the front springs were sagging and I switched them out with four inch EVO plush rides. Then I added EVO rock stars in the rear and three inch bumps so the shocks wouldn't bottom out. Just don't try to reinvent the wheel. Long story short it has all been done over and over. Stick with what is proven to work and go have fun.


Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

BigBad408

New member
:thinking: Articulation/flex = total travel. You HAVE to have larger bump stops or your larger tires and or steering components will be jammed up in the fender well and frame.

I'm not putting on larger tires than I have now and the only steering components that end up in the frame are the flipped drag link (which is the big topic of discussion here).

Right now regardless if I do a 3" lift, 6" lift or 450" lift, if my upper bump stops stay in the same location, my tires and other components still STOP at the same location.

IF i go to larger tires I need to extend the upper bumpstop
If I flip the drag ling I need to extend the bumpstop

If I just lift it the bump stop does not need to extend. The problem I am trying to solve is why there is not a better engineered solution than flipping the drag link and subsequently having to add bumpstop? That's it. Not if I have bigger tires or I flip the drag link or if if if...

It's called innovation. Looking for a better answer and trying to understand if someone has already had the same thought process and ruled it out via sound logic and thought.
 

BigBad408

New member
Don't over think it. Honestly the shocks are what will limit your overall travel. There are some handling gains in doing the flip with raised track bar. When I purchased my jeep used it came with an early version of the Rancho 4" sport lift. Dropped control arm brackets, dropped pitman arm and drop brackets for front and rear track bars along with only 2" bump stop extensions. The front track bar bracket cracked almost immediately and that was my clue to make some changes. I did some research and being a bit of a cheap ass ended up with a bit of a frankenlift. I did the flip, raised track bar brackets front and rear and the handling was so much better with just those changes. Then I added three inch bump stops awhile later because I kept bottoming out on the raised track bar bracket. Soon after I started noticing the front springs were sagging and I switched them out with four inch EVO plush rides. Then I added EVO rock stars in the rear and three inch bumps so the shocks wouldn't bottom out. Just don't try to reinvent the wheel. Long story short it has all been done over and over. Stick with what is proven to work and go have fun.


Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE mobile app

:eek:But that's exactly what I'm trying to do! Overthink it! You may be very right and I may be miles up the wrong tree...and I will likely arrive precisley nowhere with a flipped track bar and 3" bumpstop extension. But while I'm up in the tree I'm going to kick it and see if anything falls out.
 

BaddestCross

Active Member
:eek:But that's exactly what I'm trying to do! Overthink it! You may be very right and I may be miles up the wrong tree...and I will likely arrive precisley nowhere with a flipped track bar and 3" bumpstop extension. But while I'm up in the tree I'm going to kick it and see if anything falls out.
Still trying to figure out if you even need to flip the drag link in the first place. Are you experiencing bump steer right now?

--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
Top Bottom