Death Wobble Again

The BAD Influence

Active Member
I replaced the ball joints in February with crown. Everything has been fine since, until this weekend. Two separate episodes of death Wobble. It's looking like I'll have the money for the Trail Leader package in February or March, so I don't want to spend a lot of money on ball joints or other parts, but I've got to get this fixed. Questions:
1) If I purchase the Dynatrack ball joints now for my D30 can I swap them into the PR44?
2) My wheels have 5" of backspacing with 0 offset. Would this be cause for the ball joints to be going out so fast? Tires are 325/60/18.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I replaced the ball joints in February with crown. Everything has been fine since, until this weekend. Two separate episodes of death Wobble. It's looking like I'll have the money for the Trail Leader package in February or March, so I don't want to spend a lot of money on ball joints or other parts, but I've got to get this fixed. Questions:
1) If I purchase the Dynatrack ball joints now for my D30 can I swap them into the PR44?
2) My wheels have 5" of backspacing with 0 offset. Would this be cause for the ball joints to be going out so fast? Tires are 325/60/18.

1. Yes, the knuckles are the same.
2. 5" is a good amount of back spacing so I don't think that would be the culprit.

Are you sure the ball joints are bad? Have you checked your track bar bolts to see if one or both might be loose or the bushings to see if they might be bad?
 

The BAD Influence

Active Member
1. Yes, the knuckles are the same.
2. 5" is a good amount of back spacing so I don't think that would be the culprit.

Are you sure the ball joints are bad? Have you checked your track bar bolts to see if one or both might be loose or the bushings to see if they might be bad?

Thank you.
I haven't taken the track bar out to inspect, but the bolts are tight and there's no movement when someone is turning the wheel back and forth. The RE lift came with a relocation bracket, that seems to be sound as well.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Thank you.
I haven't taken the track bar out to inspect, but the bolts are tight and there's no movement when someone is turning the wheel back and forth. The RE lift came with a relocation bracket, that seems to be sound as well.

Track bar relocation bracket? Hmmm, I would carefully inspect the welds both on it and on the factory mount where it attaches to. I have seen more than my fair share of relocation bracket act like a lever and tear off over the years. Leading up to it is DW.

Also, I see that you have a 2015 and the frame side track bar bushing sucks. It has plastic components inside and they tend to wear out.
 
I’m also in Utah up in the salt lake area. Eddie has pretty much covered the likely causes so if you want someone to help you look at it here, DM me and I can make some time.
 

The BAD Influence

Active Member
Track bar relocation bracket? Hmmm, I would carefully inspect the welds both on it and on the factory mount where it attaches to. I have seen more than my fair share of relocation bracket act like a lever and tear off over the years. Leading up to it is DW.

Also, I see that you have a 2015 and the frame side track bar bushing sucks. It has plastic components inside and they tend to wear out.

Again, thanks for your help. Would an aftermarket adjustable track bar be better, and remove the RE relocation bracket?
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Again, thanks for your help. Would an aftermarket adjustable track bar be better, and remove the RE relocation bracket?

No. IF the track bar busing is bad, just get a Crown OE replacement. They are cheap and use bonded rubber bushings on both ends just like the old 2007-10 track bars. Being that you have a relocation bracket, I would assume you have a drag link flip or dropped pitman arm installed and you would NEED that bracket in order to retain your steering geometry. Just check the welds to make sure they're all good.
 

The BAD Influence

Active Member
No. IF the track bar busing is bad, just get a Crown OE replacement. They are cheap and use bonded rubber bushings on both ends just like the old 2007-10 track bars. Being that you have a relocation bracket, I would assume you have a drag link flip or dropped pitman arm installed and you would NEED that bracket in order to retain your steering geometry. Just check the welds to make sure they're all good.

Yes, the RE lift came with a drag link flip. I think rather than take the track bar out to inspect, I'll just order the crown and replace it.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Yes, the RE lift came with a drag link flip. I think rather than take the track bar out to inspect, I'll just order the crown and replace it.

LOL!! There's no need to replace your track bar if it isn't bad. Best try to find the cause of your DW before spending any money.
 

The BAD Influence

Active Member
LOL!! There's no need to replace your track bar if it isn't bad. Best try to find the cause of your DW before spending any money.

Sound logic, but my feeling is that my wife's piece of mind is worth the $84 to just put the new one in while I've got the old one out. Plus, I assume it'll swap over to the PR44 anyway.
 

Exodus 4x4

New member
Thank you.
I haven't taken the track bar out to inspect, but the bolts are tight and there's no movement when someone is turning the wheel back and forth. The RE lift came with a relocation bracket, that seems to be sound as well.

Relocation bracket on the axle side of frame side? I’ve seen the RE frame drop brackets and they’re garbage. Worst part is also forces you to use the RE track bar which is just as awful. Point being, if you have a frame side “relocation” bracket then you can’t just replace your track bar with a Crown OE. It won’t fit.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

The BAD Influence

Active Member
Relocation bracket on the axle side of frame side? I’ve seen the RE frame drop brackets and they’re garbage. Worst part is also forces you to use the RE track bar which is just as awful. Point being, if you have a frame side “relocation” bracket then you can’t just replace your track bar with a Crown OE. It won’t fit.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

It's on the axle side, relocated attachment point up, and reused the stock track bar. The drag link is theirs, after the flip.
 

The BAD Influence

Active Member
Update 3

I replaced the tie rod, which was slightly bent, and the track bar. While neither were in bad shape I think I found the problem. The passenger side tie rod wasn't seated properly. You can see the lower threads are knurled pretty good. It seemed tight upon inspection.
 

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WJCO

Meme King
I replaced the tie rod, which was slightly bent, and the track bar. While neither were in bad shape I think I found the problem. The passenger side tie rod wasn't seated properly. You can see the lower threads are knurled pretty good. It seemed tight upon inspection.

Hope that fixes it for you.
 

JDDK

Member
each time you do a tire rotation, jack up both front tires off the ground. have someone turn fron steering wheel slowly from lock to lock and watch all the steering components for slop. then push/pull sideways on front tire at 90 degrees. if there is any rocking, the unit bearing is worn. Then grab a shovel and wedge it under the front of each tire and try to lift each front tire like a prybar while looking at the upper and lower balljoints. if there is play, they are worn. Lastly, torque that trackbar and all 4 control arms. Entire check takes a couple minutes and will isolate the source of deathwobble. This is a great preventative maintenance drill. If all is good, but wobble continues, rebalance of tires is sometimes necessary.

I had my first death wobble at 65mph. I never ever want to repeat that experience!
 
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